ciao

bump.....anybody have any heaters they want to get rid of?

I also have a spare Reeflo Snapper I would let go for $110 if your interested.

well you actually need to factor in the shipping as well which makes it $48. Is that still cheap?

Thanks Finch for offering. I think I might be good for now. I had everything(well minus one of the extra heaters) on last night(MAG-18, snapper, halides, actinics, powerheads) and it didn't cause the breaker to go off. Maybe something else caused it to breaker to go off the previous night since I remember thinking it was odd that it would go off after the halides had cycled down and just the Actinic and pumps were going. I'll give it a few more days before I pull the trigger on the rewiring. Thanks everybody for the advice

Knowing my luck during this whole tank setup process, I doubt I'll be as lucky as Miles or Rick!

If anybody is interested in getting a multimedia tank(I believe that's what they are called) I would highly recommend the Popcorn Hour 1100. Do a google search on it. I bought one about 6 month ago and love it! It plays anything you throw at it and it's cheaper than trying to build one on your own. There were only two things I don't like about it though. The remote control has a pretty weak IR signal so you need a direct line of sight in order for the receiver to pick up the signal. The second thing I didn't like was on certain movie formats, you couldn't go faster than 8x on fast forward. You can get around that by skipping in increments of 10% or if you know the time index, you can skip right to the spot you left off on. Otherwise it's pretty cool!

hmmm.....I guess I'll have to do some rewiring then.

Is there an easy way to tell what the house is wired with?

I'm curious, why would you use the union type ball valves instead? What are the advantages?

I second using the flex hose for the return. I cuts down on the noise by 90%. See if you can get some picture of Kilmca's set up. CA2OR recently went the flex hose route for the return and he said his noise went down dramatically as well.

I'm curious, has anybody here had to change out the electric breaker for one that has a higher tolerance? I was wondering, what did you have plugged in on that one breaker and what size breaker did you end having to switch it out for? My breaker went off last night(fortunately while I was there looking at the tank. Must of been those dang heaters pushed it over the edge DOH!). I'm actually surprised it hasn't gone off sooner but surprisingly even with the 400W MH, 2 Actinic, fan for ligh, snapper pump, and a MAG -18 it held. But add 2 250W heaters heating at the same time and the breaker goes lazy on me(talk about a slacker!(laugh)) I suspect the breakers won't go off to many times though since the heaters oddly enough don't usually come on at the same time go figure(nutty). But I thought I should change out the breaker anyways so wanted some suggestions on what size breaker I should replace it with. thanks

I run 3 400W and 2 Actinic lights. So you haven't noticed any downside from letting it run like that? I currently have 2 250W heaters that are set to be 76 degrees in the sump. I haven't been really keeping track of what the actual temp is in the main tank though since it's only been cycling but I wanted to start putting in livestock in this week and plan on getting a thermometer this week to measure the temp. Do you think the 2 250W heaters would be sufficient if I let the tank have temp fluctuations?

RO/DI should be coming out at 0 ideally

So what sort of temp ranges are you going through both in the winter and summer?

How big of a heater would you say a 210 Gallon tank with a 30 gallon sump(probably only fill up to ~13 gallon mark) would be needed? The heater would be located down below in the sump.

bump for another attempt

Anybody have a used one that they don't need anymore? Need one for keeping my mixed water at the right temp. A used and working TDS meter would be nice as well. Thanks

Would you be willing to sell the ballast by itself?

How do you "flush" the RO membrane? I thought you did that by plugging it in and letting it run for an hour to flush it? The instructions that came with it said to just hook it up and run it for 15-30 minutes before using the water. It didn't mention anything about needing to unhook the DI units while flushing.....

So I just recently bought a brand new RO/DI unit and it isn't working properly. I'm not sure if it's due to pressure or something else since I'm new to these things. It's a 100 GPD unit with two DI chambers. I put the RO membrane in yesterday and tried to run it off of my garden hose(the hose was not frozen) and I was barely getting drips out of it. After an hour I probably had only a cup of water and the waste water was flowing like the water was just going in and out. The DI chambers don't even appear to be getting fully saturated with water since I still see plenty of air inside of the chambers. I need to get this unit up and running fast since I need to make some water to replace my evaporated water soon in order to get my salinity back down. Fortunately it's only cycling right now but having the salinity at 1.29 is not something I want to have for a long time. Does anybody live near the Beaverton area that could help me take a look at my unit to see what's wrong or can give me some ideas of what's wrong? I'm really stumped. I even put in a small ball valve on the waste line to create some back pressure to see if that helped and I saw a little improvement but it still was producing a lot less than what I was getting when Twitterbait lent me his 100GPD RO/DI setup

As a side question, how often are we supposed to change the Actinic bulbs??? Still researching all the light issues while my tank is cycling.

So what was the final verdict on how often you need to change them compared to name brand bulbs? Couldn't find a definite answer from skimming that thread on RC

Thanks. Found the info I need

So I just got a used MAG-18 pump and the intake and output areas look all bent out of shape which I suspect won't give me a good seal and produce a leak when running. Does anybody know where I could get replacement parts or have contact information for the manufacturer so I can get in contact with them about getting a replacement part or have it sent to get repaired??? I would prefer if there was somebody local that could repair so if anybody knows of anybody that can help me get the part or knows somebody that does repairs, I would appreciate any info you can give. Thanks

I might be interested. What are the dimensions and could you post pictures? I have a 72" tank, would that be sufficient to illuminate such a large tank?