Byrd

Second deadline extension with plenty of notice given to all for posting photos in advance-I saw two people ask about posting early since they would be gone during the time they were asked to be posted. I know this is all in fun, but having deadlines always extended does not sit well. Frankly I can give a flying %@ but it goes against all I teach my child-such as...Life has rules, follow them or pay the consequences or at least be ready to pay the consequences.... As always, my unsolicited two cents worth-perhaps opening a thread in the "rant" or "general" section would be more appropriate-

I'm sure they are toast, never to recover, dying, dying, dead even though day by day they will look like they are getting better. This is very deceptive, best bet is to give them to me and save yourself the anguish, it is very sad but I'm here for you brother. You cant ever say I did not offer to help. For every day of hell add 1, give it a month or so, target feed them well every few days with mysis, or brine, something easily digestible, as to silversides and the like. Those guys are resilient-they'll pull through fine, and remember the offer is ALWAYS out there for you-(plotting)

Chiller can depend a lot as to the type of fixture you have, i.e. pendant, closed canopy.... My chiller is running even in winter, even though I don't have an enclosed canopy, its somewhat close to that and my 2-250MH w/4-65 PC bulbs are 4.5inches from the surface water I use a PH monitor by Marine Pinpoint w/ my Calc. reactor. It is "set it and forget it", it keeps my Ca @ 450 and my KH @ 11.2. I could change these values to what ever I want, but it never changes once its dialed, it keeps those values rock solid all the time. Terrible directions it comes with and it took me FOREVER to find some one willing to take the time w/me and get it dialed. But it is dialed now and its something I could not live without. I used to have to test and tweak the reactor every few weeks as coral demands increased. Well worth the 200.00 it ran.

Very cool, I like the way yours looks 100% natural. You've got mail-LOL

Very cool looking, Wannareef's wall is very impressive. If this stuff is so bouyant, what are the chances of it ripping the "lip" off the tank that is assisting in keeping it "down" Just something I was thinking about- Again very cool

Here is my update-have 8 polyps that open fully, I could say 9 since I got a partial but either way 8-9, I did not care to reach into the tank for multiple shots, the rest are smaller polyps are hidden by the larger ones-

I have kept emerald crabs with no problems other than they steal food when I target feed my Dendro & Acans. For that reason I pulled the 2 largest (and they were BIG) and traded them in-I now have one and it has never bothered a thing

My Purple Tang its it like its going out of style. I actually buy chaeto to add to a "feeder" I have in the tank-the Tang eats it all day long and the hermits munch away on it as well.

No they are not reef safe, I believe the rule is if they have raised "bumps" they are bad, or not reef safe. I'll cross my fingers for you that you don't experience any "algae" outbreak with the brand new sand. It has always happened to me, even when using very old seeded LR and water from the existing tank. I actually picked up some Turbos Thursday when Patrick was having a "buy one get one sale" Its amazing how much "green" these guys mow down. I had a Korallia that was pretty covered in algae, I put the Turbo snail on that PH and woke the next day to find it 99% algae free- This is in my 20 gallon tank that I threw together with all the "extra" pieces I had laying around. Anyhow nice set up again, and glad to see you got yourself a nice new camera to boot!

I heard the oppisite about them splitting. I was told they split when they feel threatened or stressed, you mentioned a move, that could have triggered it. Regardless, extra cash now!! Nice color

Yes sweet tank, I had always eye balled that when being at Patricks. I thought you had a deal going on a cube or I would have suggested his place to look for a setup. He usually has multiple used sysems for sale as well as new. Anyway glad you got yourself a new setup, I was wondering how you were going to get a 125 gallon cube through your front door. Have a Merry Christmas, you're on your way

They are both superman montis, one from westside one from TEC. Not sure what #1 is but I bet it will be very cool looking when it grows out. Try googling montis, montipora, montipors digitata, and so on, maybe you get lucky and find one that looks close. I swear I have seen something similar in all my searches but I cant recall anything that jumps out. good luck!

green-yellow, orange -purple-they're close-(laugh) Now I am curious about the orange cap-were you told that is what it is by the person you got it from? Here is my denae, which like i said, if is tough to tell by the pic, I was focusing more on the polyp-

From the looks, I could almost say what is being called the orange cap could posibly be a denae-could be the orange cap, but still I cant say for certain- the polyps look like it could be a denae You using a cell phone camera? If you have a digi cam and a tripod that would help (duh-huh?), just need a little more focus-I know its tough sometimes getting a good pic in focus where you need it, at least for me-LOL # 1 is still tough to make out the colors and polyps, looks sort of like my reverse sunset, yellow base orange polyps-still cant say for sure

How old is your tank? Not sure why you are showing any nitrite if it is an established tank. Some will tell you bio balls have been known to house Nitrates but your level of 10 is not bad and like reef mentioned earlier xenia and alot of softeis in general like a little dirty water. If the levels you posted are avearge and you are not having swings, I see nothing in the water params you posted that is alarming at all. I picture is always helpful

I had similar issues with my Pom Pom Xenia, all of a sudden one day it started melting away. I dont see any major issues with your levels especially when talking about xenia-my tanks params were great and it still was going on. I ended up talking scissors and cutting both "stalks" off. Mine was melting from the top down so I cut well below the dying part. It grew back just fine and has been good ever since. I frag it all the time and trade it at the LFS. Here is a pic of what I got and you can see what I mean by stalks. If yours is the same and melting away like I described mine was you can try cutting it. If you look at the right side you can see where I cut a few stalks away-I was fragging it but you get the idea of where you can cut. I'ld leave about an inch at least Its not an answer to whats causing it but like i said, nothing you have described indicates reason for alarm-water stability speaking that is-IMO; Good luck with it

Or get a bigger return pump-(scratch) I had the same issue on my 75 gallon. Pump rated for 1500 gph with head lose, 1000 GPH, i had to choke back the returns as well. I just orderd a Mag24 so at 2400GPH I should be good-LOL Or at 2000-2100 with the same head lose that is. Nice build you have there!

Somewhere online if you serch you can find what clowns are known to host certain nems. I have had percs dive bomb carpet nems that others would not touch. It took my maroon nearly 2 months to host my RBTA, which I have sold(both pieces since it split) and now that same clown hosts my yuma rics. Not sure whay it did not go to my frogspawn or torches-oh well. Its something you need to "just let nature take its course". You may have read if you target feed, do so by the nem which will draw the clowns closer. This is not the chart I saw last year but you can find one-"Google"; http://www.aquacon.com/clownfishanenomecompatibility.html

Thanks Jason, thats good to know being I have a rainbow that is getting close to my Pink Lemonade. I had another acro that was waiting to get glued fell over and burned a good little spot on that rainbow-all healed up but always learning. Mick I would google "caring for monti" or something similar, or google the monti in question which usually will ink you to forums or sellers etc that have care instructions. Overall they seem to be pretty 'Kill" proof, at least in my tank. I did move my Appleberry to middle to low as it did not dig the upper part of the tank. Got to love Google, almost as much as Fleabay

LMAO-The classifieds get opened back up and 90% of new posts are classifieds- I was commenting to a member on Saturday that you needed to scroll a few pages to get to the classifieds before it was opened back up, now the flood gates are open we are experiencing the Tsunami. I think that gives validity to one of the gripes that this site is "classified" driven 1st, information 2nd. I got to agree- Again, my unsolicited, un-requested, unwanted 2 cents worth. Byrd out

I'm looking for a phosban reactor, you got one?

100.00 from them-(laugh) but a 20.00 trade from a member locally-got to love trades-Thanks Roy!!

Googled "Stomatella snail ", thats what I got-Thanks Andy! "Stomatella snails are small fast-moving snails that look more like slugs than regular snails, although they do have small flat shells. There are several species available in the aquarium trade among which Stomatella varia is the most common. Stomatella snails can be bought in fish stores, but are also frequently brought into the aquarium with live rock. It can be hard to know exactly which species one keep if they have been introduced with live rock. They are 100% reef safe. Stomatella snails grow to be less than an inch (2.5 cm), and Stomatella varia will typically stay smaller than ¾ inch (1.9 cm). Stomatella snails come in a wide variety of colors from darker color such as grey, black and green to softer color such as orange and pinkish. Stomatella snails are mainly night active but can be out and about in the day time as well. The best time to observe them is during the night using a flashlight. When your snails are most active depends on the exact species of Stomatella snail you keep in your aquarium. Stomatella snails are beneficial for reef aquariums as they are herbivores that will help control micro algae growth. They should not be kept with wrasses such as the four and six line wrasse or certain shrimps like the peppermint shrimp as these predators might eat the snails and be able to quickly decimate a population. Stomatella snails are just like all other snails very sensitive towards copper and you should not use copper based medications in an aquarium containing these or other snails. There is a large risk that the snails will die and pollute the water. "

I'll have to tag along. I find these guys in my sump and filter sock all the time, I just throw them back in the tank, amazing on how fast the slither along