DennisW

ok...I will knock the price down a little....how about....FREE!!!!! (Im sooooo impatient (good thing patience is not important in this hobby!)). Dennis

I have for sale, 4 46.5", URI brand SuperActinicR, VHO lamps used for 5 months. These have been run on an electronic ballast only. Good shape! $25.00. First to dennis4679@comcast.net email me gets 'em. Please contact me for pickup. No shipping. Thanks Dennis

Ya..I will take a before and after. Dennis

That's what Im using now, the pheonix bulbs. I wanted to switch to something different out of curosity mostly. I decided to give the megachrome bulbs a try. I am getting the 14.5K Coral bulbs. We'll see how it goes. I've run pheonix bulbs for about the last 3 or 4 bulb changes. Dennis

Looking to purchase a couple of these bulbs. Anyone local stock them? Thanks Dennis

Looks like a zoanthid eating nudi. Got any zoanthids? Dennis

spooky....

Small correction, I was EXPLICITLY told by Austin that HE was donating and auctioning the rainbow monty.....not Patrick. LOL!!(rock2)

Just send it in to Seaswirl for repair. I think it's like $40 for basicly a whole new motor and linkage. There turn around time is pretty decent also. Dennis

Sounds like what you are describing is called a "wet-dry" filter. The fan blowing in is probably thought to increase the amount of oxygen present to make the filter "more" effective. At best, it probably just adds some additional cooling. The wet-dry is VERY effective at reduceing ammonia all the way down to nitrate. Pretty effective for a fish only tank but not in a reef tank. Corals are sensitive to increased nitrate levels and will not fare well. Fish dont mind them. If you run a wet-dry on a reef tank, the wet-dry is SO effective at converting ammonia to nitrate, that the nitrate builds up in the tank faster than the bacteria in the liverock can process it. This is how the build up of nitrate happens. In a reef tank, we use liverock. The liverock acts like a wet-dry somewhat, on it's surface. The bacteria on the surface of the liverock convert ammonia down to nitrate. Then, deep in the liverock, in the anarobic zones, live the bacteria that convert nitrate to nitrogen gas and is thus removed from the tank. Pretty effective system if ya ask me. Dennis

LOL! I was thinking the EXACT same thing! Finely an issue with more than one interesting article!!!! Dennis

Oh man!! What a beautiful tank!!! Ive heard talk of people wanting to do something like this but never actually seen it and I really thought it might look kinda tacky. Well...I guess it dosent! (If done properly, which yours appears to be.). Thanks for showing it off. Dennis

Ive been using two, 250W DE 14K Pheonix bulbs in ROIII reflectors driving by a dual 250W HQI Sunlight supply ballast. These are supplimented with 4, 110W, VHO, URI brand SuperActinicR's driven by a LampsNow e-ballast. This setup works pretty good but I dont think I would go with the DE bulbs again. Seem to have better light spread with the SE mogal bulbs IMO. I also would like to have some "whiter" light when the MH's are off and just the VHO's are running. The only option is the 50/50 bulbs or the AquaSun bulbs, these BOTH appear to be too pink to me. I think there would be better options with the t-5 bulbs. Dennis

My tank is 48x24x25 and I am running a Dart on a closed loop with 2, 1.5" inlets, 5 outlets. The outlets are 3, 3/4" fan nozzels across the lower back and 2, 3/4" seaswirls. I also have a Tunze 6000 running. The flow is decent but with my 1.5"-2" sandbed, I cant power the tunze up past about 50% or so. I also find that to get really good flow out of the two seaswirls, I must pretty much close the three outlets across the lower back. I sometimes go ahead and open the three outlets up all the way and blow out the rock while doing water change. My return is a single 1" u-tube (directional/fan nozzel) connected to a Iwaki MD-40-RXT. About 600 gph or so with head. I sometimes think that If I had it to do over again, I would skip the closed loop and just invest in 2 Tunze 6000 w/ multicontroller. Dennis

Sounds good! Thanks for the info. Wish they were open on Saturdays!!! I ran out of CO2 yesterday. With my Korralin reactor, I last bought a new bottle of CO2 back in October of last year. Lasted me 6 months!!! Dennis

Do you just walk in and exchange your empty tank at the Jones Welding Supply shop? Or do you have to leave it and pick it up later? Just curious. It's a little closser to me in Fairview than AirGas. Thanks Dennis

eww...European flu huh? Dosent sound fun. Well, welcome back!

LOL...good to hear ya got it all hooked up Rob. If ya have any questions, ya know where to find me. Dennis

SOLD! Dennis

Thanks. I hope it does. Dennis

For sale is a 4 stage RO/DI unit. It has a garden hose attachement for feed line, a 5 micron sediment filter, 1 micron carbon block, 60 gallon/day, Kent Hi-S RO membrane (running since 7/05) and a Kent brand DI, Hi-S cartridge that was just replaced about 3 weeks ago. Also comes with a new set of sediment and carbon block filters and a dual TDS guage. The unit works great and currently reads 1 ppm out of the RO membrane and 0 out of the DI cartridge (final product water.). This is a great price at $60. I am selling it because I recently upgraded to a 90gpd Spectrapure unit. Must pickup in Fairview (gresham area). Must Email me at dennis4679@comcast.net if you are interested. First come, first serve. Dennis

If the premise of the whole operation is preservation and ecology, I wonder where all the specimens are going to come from? Frag trades? Dennis

No...no nitrate reducer...it's a phosban reactor w/a mixture of coralife silicate remover and RowaPhos. I dont really use the Coralife product anymore, just the Rowa. Yes...thick acrylic. A little "over built" by Andy. Dennis

You Have PM. Dennis