vanz Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Current Look as of 10/8/14 - Empty I am downsizing from a 125g and will be transferring most of my equipment over to the new cube. This will be a build thread to share and get help as I'm sure I'll be doing a bunch of things wrong. Equipment Tank: Marineland 93g Frameless Cube with Corner Overflow 30" x 30" x 24"H Stand: Marineland Ventura Stand Sump: 20L glass tank Return Pump: Jebao DC12000 Skimmer: SWC 160 Cone Wavemaker: Jebao WP40 Light: TBD Inhabitants Will list them as they go in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 While the tank is being leak tested, I went ahead and dry fitted the pvc fittings for the return output and manifold. Return Output I'll be doing a dual output for the corner overflow. It's created with the loc lines that came with the tank purchase and parts I had laying around the garage. There will be a valve facing into the overflow to prevent stagnant water in the bottom. I'll later spray the whole thing black with krylon fusion. Return Manifold It's created using 1" tees to 1/2" ball valves. The 1" ball valve will go to the return. The other 3 for smaller uses like reactors and what not. The reason the return valve is pointing down is because the manifold needs to be mounted really high in the stand. There's a header that runs along the back of the stand so the pipe needs to go down and then up again. Hopefully the dc12000 can handle it. I ordered the dc12000 off fish-street and on the description it said the pump didn't include a cover, but it was included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Since I didn't want the tank to be directly on carpet, I went with this equipment pad made for AC condensers and other heavy items. It's 36" x 36" x 2". Was going with either plywood or starboard, but plywood required a lot or prepping so I decided to ditch that and starboard got expensive if I wanted a thick sheet. Equipment pad • Weight capacity: 125 lb./sq. in. Mounting base for air conditioning units, filters, heaters, pool pumps, and refrigeration, or any type of equipment requiring weight distribution support. Ribbing allows self leveling and transfers load evenly. UV stable and vibration resistant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XrayGuy Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Looks like you are off to a good start! I am very curious to see how your plumbing ends up looking when all hooked up. That manifold looks pretty serious! Do you have pics of your sump with baffles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cor4eyh Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Looking good I've been debating to do the added ball valve plumbing to power my reactor of gfo and carbon would make use of this powerful pump I have turned back nearly 3/4 lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Looks like you are off to a good start! I am very curious to see how your plumbing ends up looking when all hooked up. That manifold looks pretty serious! Do you have pics of your sump with baffles? umm no pictures yet. It's the one currently running on my 125g. It's the same as yours minus the single baffle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
badxgillen Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 I am getting cube envy again. Definitely making good use of that powerful return pump. Is this going to be viewable from 3 or 4 sides? Either way it is going to be killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kriz2fer Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 While the tank is being leak tested, I went ahead and dry fitted the pvc fittings for the return output and manifold. Return Output I'll be doing a dual output for the corner overflow. It's created with the loc lines that came with the tank purchase and parts I had laying around the garage. There will be a valve facing into the overflow to prevent stagnant water in the bottom. I'll later spray the whole thing black with krylon fusion. Return Manifold It's created using 1" tees to 1/2" ball valves. The 1" ball valve will go to the return. The other 3 for smaller uses like reactors and what not. The reason the return valve is pointing down is because the manifold needs to be mounted really high in the stand. There's a header that runs along the back of the stand so the pipe needs to go down and then up again. Hopefully the dc12000 can handle it. I ordered the dc12000 off fish-street and on the description it said the pump didn't include a cover, but it was included. Nice manifold man....(flower) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Lookin good Sean, Curious where is the blue stuff that leaks all over the pvc that I have when I do plumbing? I don't see it anywhere. Can't wait to see you have it all setup. Let me know if you need anything, you know I am a hoarder and I want to clear out my garage! I have like 5 old sets of LED's if you wanna give some older models a try (whistle) What 3 reactors are you running? Also I might try to turn make that return barb a straight barb and ditch the elbow all together. Then you can run the hose from there directly to your return line in the tank. Pointing down and then running back up again seems like a waste of a 90' and you know how I hate 90's in plumbing. They are almost as bad as people who reduce the diameter on the return plumbing to the tank just before the return! Edit: I'd also suggest painting those locline returns with some krylon fusion. I think tiger stripes would be nice, but you'll probably prefer just straight black or the wall color they will be against cuz your all practical. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefnjunkie Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 looking good so for-something to consider would be a gate valve or tru-union ball valve on the long side of the return. The return flow will have a tendency to follow the path of least resistance and one side of the return will over power the other-Honestly I'd these on both sides http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597 Looking good I've been debating to do the added ball valve plumbing to power my reactor of gfo and carbon would make use of this powerful pump I have turned back nearly 3/4 lol A great use of the pump-I did the same on my return-presently allows the ability to run 5 different things-I thread the PVC and added John Guess type valves so they are closed and I just plug in the tubing when I need to run something -I change things up a lot ( or used to ) (nutty) carbon, GFO, Bio pellets, sulfer reactor, calcium reactor-heck even a tube for drip acclimating. Now its just a calcium reactor-everything else is history Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 I am getting cube envy again. Definitely making good use of that powerful return pump. Is this going to be viewable from 3 or 4 sides? Either way it is going to be killer. Do it! Also only 2 sides viewable =( Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cor4eyh Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 A great use of the pump-I did the same on my return-presently allows the ability to run 5 different things-I thread the PVC and added John Guess type valves so they are closed and I just plug in the tubing when I need to run something -I change things up a lot ( or used to ) (nutty) carbon, GFO, Bio pellets, sulfer reactor, calcium reactor-heck even a tube for drip acclimating. Now its just a calcium reactor-everything else is history I'm just a bit worried about doing it now that it's all plumbed and working whether to hard plumb it all and adding that loop for the reactor. It's a durso drain pipe and if I pull that pipe out it'll drain the tank will it not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 Lookin good Sean, Curious where is the blue stuff that leaks all over the pvc that I have when I do plumbing? I don't see it anywhere. Can't wait to see you have it all setup. Let me know if you need anything, you know I am a hoarder and I want to clear out my garage! I have like 5 old sets of LED's if you wanna give some older models a try (whistle) What 3 reactors are you running? Also I might try to turn make that return barb a straight barb and ditch the elbow all together. Then you can run the hose from there directly to your return line in the tank. Pointing down and then running back up again seems like a waste of a 90' and you know how I hate 90's in plumbing. They are almost as bad as people who reduce the diameter on the return plumbing to the tank just before the return! Edit: I'd also suggest painting those locline returns with some krylon fusion. I think tiger stripes would be nice, but you'll probably prefer just straight black or the wall color they will be against cuz your all practical. Just dry fitted so can be easily changed except for the true union ball valve which I took off an old setup. Not sure on the 3, one is most likely my phosban reactor running carbon. Another I have a marine pure media that I still want to run (don't judge me lol) it's been seeded for a year. Haha I'm good on the old led setups. Gonna find one more pleasing to the eye since it's going commando in the living room. Here's how the manifold is inside the stand. I need it that high because of the sump. As you can see not much room. [ATTACH]13745[/ATTACH] I'm still waiting on my gate valve for the Herbie. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Seems like you could tee off to get to the return seperate from going to the manifold and save the 90 which would improve the pump performance. Just split straight from the pump to the return and have the other go through your 3 small outs. Controlling the return then from the manifold could be one ball valve. Not sure how much if any better it would be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 looking good so for-something to consider would be a gate valve or tru-union ball valve on the long side of the return. The return flow will have a tendency to follow the path of least resistance and one side of the return will over power the other-Honestly I'd these on both sides That's something to consider, thanks. I have a couple of 3/4" try-union ball valves on my current setup I can cannibalize. Not sure if I have enough space inside my overflow though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 Seems like you could tee off to get to the return seperate from going to the manifold and save the 90 which would improve the pump performance. Just split straight from the pump to the return and have the other go through your 3 small outs. Controlling the return then from the manifold could be one ball valve. Not sure how much if any better it would be. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I think I know what you mean. I'll give it a shot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CuttleFishandCoral Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Looking really nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 This better? [ATTACH]13746[/ATTACH] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 A great use of the pump-I did the same on my return-presently allows the ability to run 5 different things-I thread the PVC and added John Guess type valves so they are closed and I just plug in the tubing when I need to run something -I change things up a lot ( or used to ) (nutty) carbon, GFO, Bio pellets, sulfer reactor, calcium reactor-heck even a tube for drip acclimating. Now its just a calcium reactor-everything else is history I'm just a bit worried about doing it now that it's all plumbed and working whether to hard plumb it all and adding that loop for the reactor. It's a durso drain pipe and if I pull that pipe out it'll drain the tank will it not? You don't use the drain pipe. Shouldn't affect anything if you modify the return line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 13, 2014 Author Share Posted October 13, 2014 vanz 93g Frameless Cube Since the stand is an open back, I built a tray to help contain any leaks or spills. It's extended because the 20l sump sticks out about 2". I caulked and primed it last night. Just didn't take a pic of the final. [ATTACH]13766[/ATTACH] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XrayGuy Posted October 13, 2014 Share Posted October 13, 2014 You are getting there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 Final location. Wish I have a bigger house for 4 sides viewable. Plumbing I decided to forego the ball valves at each return nozzle. The wave maker pumps should give me more flow than I need. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pledosophy Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 Lookin good Bro! When ya gonna fill it up? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Higher Thinking Posted October 28, 2014 Share Posted October 28, 2014 4 side viewing would be sick! I'm sure it would be tough to scape tough. I've seen a legit one where the two overflows were in the middle and hidden within the live rock. Looked super sleek. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanz Posted October 28, 2014 Author Share Posted October 28, 2014 It's going to be difficult transferring stuff from my 125. Should I make new water and put it in the new tank or use old water from the established tank and do a large water change? I'm not going to move everything at once since I want to aquascape with some of the established rocks. Also want to reuse the sand. I just have a huge flatworm problem. Would freshwater dipping kill all the flatworms? Should I rinse the sand with freshwater? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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