markdadof2 Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 OK, so much to the pleasure of my wife I moved my RO system out of the laundry room and into the garage. Now when I forget about it only the garage will be flooded. SO.....what does everyone use for a float switch with their RO system to shut it off automatically? I use a 33gal brute container. Any suggestions? Pictures of your setups would be wonderful. I can take one of mine if you think it is of interest. Thanks Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Not much to mine. It's hooked to the bathroom faucet and has a line running around the room to the tub/shower. I fill 5 gallon buckets which I set in the bottom of the tub. If it overflows then the water goes down the drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spectra Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I have the same set up now. Moved it from the LR to the garage about 2 months ago. Have only flooded twice nowDOH! Last time was out in the boat and wondering if I shut it off. Well came home to water running down the drivway when the door opened(laugh) Only about 4 bgallonss but it was funny to see. I have a Kent float switch and think I am just going to drill a hole in the side of the rubbermade can. I usually do not like to have the ro on all the time but at least it will kill it before it overflows next time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 How do you turn it on? I'm not sure if using a float valve is good for the Ro/Di unit, I guess it wouldnt matter all the water would just go to the waste line. Mine is hooked to a electric solenoid and I have the controller turn it on for 45 min each day to keep a 5 gal bucket full, the bucket is outside so if it overflows a little its OK. The water is then pumped in with a maxi also on the controller for the ATO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Pressure solenoid + float valve. Like Kent or spectrapure. If you have a solenoid on your RO already, I have a spare new float valve with acrylic height adjustment (eshopp) I want to get rid of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spectra Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 How do you turn it on? I'm not sure if using a float valve is good for the Ro/Di unit, I guess it wouldnt matter all the water would just go to the waste line. Mine is hooked to a electric solenoid and I have the controller turn it on for 45 min each day to keep a 5 gal bucket full, the bucket is outside so if it overflows a little its OK. The water is then pumped in with a maxi also on the controller for the ATO I like this idea for an ATO but I think Mark is asking about just the RO for making up water. I think he is filling the garbage can for making up SW. If I am wrong let me know Mark. And I am the same way with making up water I do not like to have the RO on with a float valve as it will just run out the wast line and wast even more water. With a teenager who lives in the shower my water bill is high enough already:eek: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smann Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I like this idea for an ATO but I think Mark is asking about just the RO for making up water. I think he is filling the garbage can for making up SW. If I am wrong let me know Mark. And I am the same way with making up water I do not like to have the RO on with a float valve as it will just run out the wast line and wast even more water. With a teenager who lives in the shower my water bill is high enough already:eek: Oh got it, cant help there My 40gal is outside also. I have to move the line out of the bucket and into the can to make up saltwater. However I then turn the controller to "manual on" and let it run, If its say 3/4 full and I'm leaving or its at night I can set it to turn off in a few hrs. Other than that I'm in the same boat, let it run for two days once when I forgot about it (laugh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmike Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I have a two switch system with a solenoid that will fill a brute trashcan when the level gets low and shut it off when the can gets full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdadof2 Posted September 8, 2009 Author Share Posted September 8, 2009 Scott, you are right. I have ATO for my display and happy with that. I need a way to not have to remember to turn OFF my RO water that goes strait from the RO filters to the holding tank. I'm tired of floods. Damned, I'm forgetful anymore guys. SO, just a float that shuts off the RO would be what I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdadof2 Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 Joel set me up - I just had to do a bit of wiring but I now have a great redundant system for my Brute container and RO. Dual float switches that control a 12v solenoid - solenoid is between my water supply and the input to RO unit so I don't have to worry about my RO pressure switch failing and continuing to create waste water. Oh man, no more flooding the floors Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coralreefer Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 So Mark...clue me in...that is what I am looking for....dual floats with solenoid between faucet and RO unit...what kind of setup is it? DrMerle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdadof2 Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 It is a DIY setup I've found enough of the parts to make another one - but I have no mounting brackets. I guess you could just mount the float switches to the holding container and it would work fine. 12v solenoid - 12v power supply - two float switches and the jonh guess fittings. Very simple to do actually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coralreefer Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 Mark--what are you saying? You've got another setup I could buy from you...I just add mounting brackets and I'm in? DrMerle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I use a Float Switch that activates a solenoid (using low voltage +12v) , then power is applied to a MaxiJet (used as a water pump) and an Electric Solenoid that opens a valve to let ro/di water into my Kalk Reactor and then on to the sump. That 1/4" is in from the 28gal RO/DI RubberMaid Brute Can and the bigger 3/8" is to the sump. This is the Relay I used 12 Volt DPDT Relay Brand: Wenzjhou Zhinhong Item Number: RLY002 Price: $7.99 The Relay Socket 12 Volt Relay Socket Brand: Wenzhou Jinhong Item Number: SOC001 Price: $4.99 The float Switch M8000 Float Switch Brand: Madison Item Number: FLT002 Price: $8.99 And some of the instructions Adjustable bracket Relay behind an acrylic box Electric solenoid, power applied the valve is open, no power the valve closes Kalkreactor, my DIY with dual MaxiJets on a mechanical/electronic timer, the MJ's mix the kalk in the ro/di then goes out the tubing to the filter sock in the sump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I use an A.S.O. (auto shut off) In conjunction with a inline check valve The product line is connected to a Float valve in the top of my container You can buy the whole kit for about $25 http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI-Filters-&-Systems-RO/DI-Accessories/c9_11/p665/Auto-Shut-off-Kit-for-RO-Systems/product_info.html This system hasn't failed or flooded in 8 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coralreefer Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 chewie--I have tried 2 of these from brs...neither worked...I have triple checked that I had them installed correctly...plus, there is the issue of TDS creep, with RO-DI unit flowing off and on... DrMerle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blown65 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 This is where I got mine, has worked great. http://autotopoff.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 chewie--I have tried 2 of these from brs...neither worked...I have triple checked that I had them installed correctly...plus, there is the issue of TDS creep, with RO-DI unit flowing off and on... DrMerle TDS creep happens when hooked up to a float valve in the sump, making small amounts @ a time. Mine is hooked up to a 30g container and or a 6gal bucket. I either make 30g, or 6g at a time. When installed correctly they work well. Did you use a check valve? What PSI is your incoming water? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I don't know what you all are using. My ato switch is at the end of the unit. WHEN IT SHUTS OFF, ALL WATER STOPS...There is another valve setup after the carbon, before the membrane. here is a link. Hope this helps. I have always used Spectrapure productshttp://spectrapure.com/St_check_valves.htm center picture Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 I use an A.S.O. (auto shut off) In conjunction with a inline check valve The product line is connected to a Float valve in the top of my container You can buy the whole kit for about $25 http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/RO/DI-Filters-&-Systems-RO/DI-Accessories/c9_11/p665/Auto-Shut-off-Kit-for-RO-Systems/product_info.html This system hasn't failed or flooded in 8 years. Well you beat me to it but this is all they need. Good Job. Now let's see how many complicate it(clap) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 the bottom picture is how mine is setup.. EXACTLY........ ONLY DIFFERENCE I RUN 2 MEMBRANES AND ALL WAISTE WATER IS KEPT FOR YARD WATERING. Never had a single problem since 02 nock on wood. http://spectrapure.com/huds/LLC-M-INSTALLATION.pdf When the valve is new It does take a little time to close, but less than a minute. Then only a matter of seconds I didn't think it worked when I first got the unit. for if you just set it up with out knowing it is adapting, your going to think it doesn't work. So I called SP and they it would and it did!!!! In the picture you see a bladder. This is for using a float valve. Less shock on the sputtering on and off as the float is topping off. Saves the membrane and you don't et the tds leakage. I know it was a lot cheeper to go another way but I wanted the unit to be right the first time. and complete to my needs To many sellers of these units just don't tell the real story as to what you need. I looked into pricing and yes I could of had the "unit" just ro/di but to get what I wanted and used, just the way they have it, would have cost a lot more. . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coralreefer Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 ccr--in the diagram, don't they have the blue tubes reversed at the aso valve? why would water coming in to the valve from ro membrane go into the "out" connection...that leaves water leaving to be coming out the "in" side...doesn't make sense...maybe that is my problem!@#$%^&*(!!!! DrMerle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 Here's how mine is hooked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 15, 2009 Share Posted September 15, 2009 ccr--in the diagram, don't they have the blue tubes reversed at the aso valve? why would water coming in to the valve from ro membrane go into the "out" connection...that leaves water leaving to be coming out the "in" side...doesn't make sense...maybe that is my problem!@#$%^&*(!!!! DrMerle jUST AS IT SHOWS first "out" from the carbon block, "IN" to the spot marked IN on the valve, "OUT" of the valve and INTO the membrane. OUT OF THE MEMBRANE AND INTO THE DI The blue line goes into one end or the other Yea I know. There is only one IN and OUT for ONLY ONE LINE. Another words you could IF YOU FELT BETTTER, You can run longer lines but it isn't going to work any differently on the membrane side. YOU MUST HOOK UP AS TO THE CARBON TO MEMBRANE CORRECTLY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markdadof2 Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Well you beat me to it but this is all they need. Good Job. Now let's see how many complicate it(clap) I would rather cut off my supply to the RO in the first place, instead of having the possibility of the RO cutoff failing and producing waste water for who knows how long - I have heard these often fail but not experienced it. I will post a few pics after dinner of my setup - pretty dang easy actually - not complicated. Dual float switches Solenoid that defaults to a closed position - once the level drops power is applied (12v) and solenoid opens. this way if power is lost it will close and NO water will flow to the ro unit - ignore water line colors - used what I had. The RO system - in the garage finally! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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