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milesmiles902

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Posts posted by milesmiles902

  1. 2 hours ago, Flashy Fins said:

    I would say don't keep the slimy rotting corals in with other corals. When I had a big crash and found myself clinging to near-dead corals, just hoping they would turn around, all they did was pollute the water and make it much more difficult to get off to a new start with the few that did survive. I had problems with fish getting bacterial diseases, corals that struggled for months... it wasn't good. I look back and think I should've thrown out, or at least separated, the rotting corals. I was sick with the flu at the time of the crash and in the middle of an upgrade, so it all sounds too familiar. I'm sorry you're going through it, but the best thing is to get the corals that look their best into a healthy, clean tank, away from dying/rotting corals. 

    Also, I think if you come across any corals you want to keep. It wouldn't hurt to throw in some activated carbon. It sounds like the the water has been sitting stagnant for a while.

    I was curious, what were you storing your corals in? There are some things you can do to mediate them for quite a while. From a glance, I wasn't sure if they still were at their house, in buckets or what?

    • Like 1
  2. You are right. Controllers are a bit expensive, but you are paying for the assurance that nothing will go wrong with the device. You have prompt support if you ever need it and a multitude of reef-ready devices.

    In general, that's how most things are in the reefing world.

     

    You could design your own with a raspberry pi and there are plenty of DIY tutorials out there to do it. 

  3. 3 hours ago, Paratore said:

    I've learned that keeping it simple yields the best results imo. The Nuvo is the easiest tank I've ever had, and it yields some of the best results. As proof, I moved my high end zoas into it instead of my frag tank and it has 1/20th the water volume lol! Great growth and color. Granted it is mostly lps and zoas. But I do have a few montis and they look great and are growing well :)
    043891b52d670df87260514e159196e5.jpg62d68d0ccfd284b2ccabf1b21fbe8487.jpg


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Think I could see this thing sometime?

    • Like 1
  4. 47 minutes ago, Brian67 said:

    Curious how people set up there ATO's. I typically run a line directly to a float valve in my sump and check tgd vslve weekly to make sure it is working properly  i have done it other ways in tge past but finf this works the best for me. I set up redunancies to minimize leak disaters

    anyone else use this method ?

    please share your methods, ive heard that going straight ftom rodi csn lead to TDS creeping in to tank but not sure if this factual 

    It would make sense that if the RODI filter is dying, you will start to have the TDS climbing. Otherwise, it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

    I personally just use my doser as an ATO. I think right now it is set at 2.755 liters per day. The doser pulls from a 5 gallon of RODI, which I replace every week or so.

  5. 11 hours ago, Brian67 said:

    I am not an expert by any means but I have a 24" tall reactor and tend to lean towards it not being a depth issue but likely the container and sometimes just bumping the probe helps to get it reading accurately. I would be interested to see if you shake it in the sump water and then place back in plastic jug what it does

    Do what Brian said also. See if you get a different pH after you swirl it.

  6. Personally, I feel it is likely depth and the top being of a different pH than the bottom, which isn't unlikely if there is no agitation.

    Just to be certain, what is the recycle number on the bottom of the plastic container? It might even say HDPP, HDPE or PP if we are lucky. Ultimately, we might be able to determine if the plastic reacts under that pH.

     

     

    • Like 1
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