Jump to content

pdxmonkeyboy

Members
  • Posts

    2,869
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    123

Posts posted by pdxmonkeyboy

  1. 26 minutes ago, SuncrestReef said:

    The new addition is on indefinite hold, but I didn't want to wait that long for a billiards table.  But with my recently-rebuilt tank, the larger one can wait.

    Wait.. we are delivering your 10 foot tank today??  

  2. It was kind of funny.  Talked to John on the phone. We was like..watch the reflection, don't burn yourself.  I was thinking, dude, you are soo soft.

    Three minutes in..what's burning?  OUCH. My shirt. 

    It works ok, at close range it is good but honestly, it is not as near as powerful as i would like.  At about 12" away its pretty useless.  It is dangerous though.. so that is cool. 

    I can't remember the wattage but after like 10 minutes i was pretty convinced the wattage rating is false.  The big problem is it doesn't focus tight enough 😞

     

    • Haha 2
  3. If you are running a peristaltic pump and control the PH of your reactor with an apex or PH controller then you don't really need the precision of the carbon doser.  I wouldn't run a reactor any other way.  That whole count the drips thing is what I would call "outdated old school".   A kamoer and apex is definitely THE way to go. 

    • Like 1
  4. hey man, hit me up.  I have a great white.. which is one step up I believe from the tiger shark.  Used it on my 3/4 glass tank.  I am runnning 1" acrylic now and had to resort to CRAZY strong magnets now.. Like mag cleaners that have warming labels on them.   I will sell it for 1/2 of retail.  Plus 1 on the doobie wrap.  works great.  I will also throw in a scrap of acrlylic which is my go to for coraline removal on acrylic. 

     

    • Like 1
  5. I would say the bucket is purple... Anyways.  All those high DKH salts should be called "sea-saw" blends as they are kind of marketed as a dosing when you do a water change which is never a super great plan.   You could do a 50/50 salt blend for a couple weeks and then switch over to the new salt.  Unless you have a lot of SPS you should be fine.  Even then, I think that the negative effects of a 1 or 2 bump in DKH are over stated.  Unless you have a lot of mari-cultured stuff you should be fine. 

     

  6. Given your system and its consumption, I would switch salt mixes to something more closely approximating seawater and slowly let your tank move down to 7-8 DKH.  I honestly never understood the high "REEF SALT" mixes.  The DKH is way outside what typical sps keepers keep their tanks.  As someone mentioned above.. the risk of high alk (among other things) is that you can have a hard time getting things INTO your system without shocking the bejezuus out of them.  

    Switch salts and then dose maybe a two part maybe once a week.   Always calibrate and check your salinity when making water changes.  Changes in salinity makes BIG differences in cal and alk. 

  7. Ok, but you failed to mention the trophic and mictic differences between ponds and lakes. Now one could argue that ponds, by their shallow nature would would be oligimictic or dimictic but i know several lakes that have the same pattern based on annual temperature stratification. Perhaps then we look at lakes. By sheer size, lakes generally have low inputs and would be mesotrophic.  Ponds however, with their primary productivity generally eutrophic. 

     

    Discuss...

    • Like 1
×
×
  • Create New...