Bombertech

1/4" Poly tubing works well for siphoning nanos.

I'm looking for either a pair of picassos/plats/WW/buckshot/etc or a larger single ~2" fish for pairing. Would like to trade for sweet zoa frag pack, let me know what you have. Thanks! ~Matt

Haha, no prob! Did Andrew send you some pics of his new tank? Should have salt in it tomorrow

Let me know what you are looking for, could do a zoa frag pack on my next trip over.

Just a friendly heads up, Bulk Reef Supply has a $10 off coupon (with no minimum order) right now. Coupon Code: take10 It does not count towards shipping. Ends tomorrow!! Great timing to pick up some of the smaller items you usually don't want to order seperately because the shipping is half the cost (frag glue, locline fittings) Picked up 2 big bottles of frag glue for $5.50 including shipping

Indeed, head loss is vertical (gravity) pressure excerted back on the pump. The pump has to overcome this pressure to get to neutral (no flow), then increase pressure past this point to get forward flow. Bends, long horizontal pipe runs do not contribute to head loss, but rather friction loss. You can look up the friction loss for any size pipe, which is based on flow rate. The larger the diameter pipe, the lower the friction loss. 30ft is a really long run, you'd be better suited adding in vibration dampening via vinyl tubing transitions to and from the pump OR replacing the pump altogether. If you can feel vibration in the pipe at your tank, that's at least contributing to the issue. With a run that long, I'd be more concerned with heat loss; even if it is insulated.

Tamarin wrasse harem, interesting idea. Will have to research that one. Yeah, no jawfish/gobies. It's Barebottom. I do really like them, Randy's was pretty entertaining when I saw it.

Excellent, that's what I used too. If your rock is clean you shouldn't get very much white mixing.

Well, it's about time to figure out the fish stocking plan for my new setup. Problem is, I'm at a bit of a loss as I'm not used to stocking a full on display tank. Trying to have this planned out in advance as I would rather not have to go spear fishing to remove a badly introduced fish... Foxface, Pygmy Angels are a NOGO... Tank Specs: Mixed Reef, Bare Bottom, 300 Gal, 96x48x16 Shallow Reef, screen top for jumpers, 2 dozen seperate coral heads for aquascaping so plenty of open swimming room. This is what I'm thinking so far: Ornamental: -Clown Harem (Nice mix of 6-12 platinums, buckshot, etc) -My Big Fat Hippo Tang -What else?? Working Fish: -Wrasses: Mystery Wrasse, Yellow Coris -Dragonets: Mandrins/Ruby Red (I've always had a few perusing the rockwork) -Convict Tangs

Pff, wrasse will be fine! I have a melanarus and coris that sleep in the rocks (haven't had sand in over a year). But, Blue Z is right, a wrasse bed is always an option.

The sharks are circling...

Given the color, yeah, amber pigments can brown out easily under certain conditions. Here is my understanding of why/how this happens, hopefully it will help if you do run into this issue! Too much 620-660nm orange/red will brown out most 580-620nm flourescent pigments, the worst is 660nm +/-10nm as it increases zooxanthellae production with no increased flourescent pigments. Most decent warm whites move their "red balance" from 660nm towards 600nm. MH and T5 don't have as large of issue with this as they have a parasitic 560-580ish spike of green/yellow which helps crank up the "yellow/orange/red" FP's. LED wise, most people have a TON of red from cool white, red diodes, or Purple T5's which is a blue with a Red spike versus true 420-430nm purple. The red helps grow the coral but color takes a hit, this is the basis of the 10/14k versus 20k debate on coral growth/coloration.

You guys and your dehumidifiers! Good call but how about a cover for your main tank/part of your sump first?

Haha, indeed! If you are able to track down a frag of the yellow lantana monti, let me know

I like the poker star, rainbow, sunset, and jedi mind trick. Medium flow and high PUR (430 peak) grows them quickly with good color. Cut a dozen poker star frags a couple weeks ago, since their polyps are easy to see, I usually take the leftover single polyps and glue them down to something else in case they make it.

Current transducers work great for large pumps/lights. If the pump stalls or the light doesn't light up the current drops and the contact in the CT opens...

Toss up any pointers/pics/vids! The more info the better! All the haters on R2R make this rock cleaning technique sound like rocket surgery mixed with breaking bad...

I have a similar setup, it's called a sloped garage [emoji13] In all seriousness, there is always some risk no matter how you look at it. But, we can definitely minimize it with a few precautions. One of the guys over here in central oregon went with 1/2 glass for a 60 gallon shallow reef. It's overkill for sure but he wanted to reduce the risk of the main tank cracking. Sump is in a drain pan and has a spot moisture sensor.

No... it's all the same!!

I've been resarching Fuel and Acropower (Amino Acids Mix) for the last month. Most important use is in ULNS to supplement nitrogen/amino acid feeding to corals. If you over-dose, you are in escence providing a carbon/nitrogen souce which can lead to algae outbreaks. Primary ingredients (after 99% water) are Arspartic Acid, Glycine, Glutamine, and Alanine. The aminos trigger a feeding response from the corals but from what I have read, not only can overdosing trigger algae outbreaks; it can also lead to tissue necrosis from the corals taking in too much food which in turn causes cell expansion/rupturing... Take-way: Aminos work great if dosed properly, more isn't better!!

i just use my mini mill with onsrud single flute end-mills. Other option is a piece of thin open cell foam and a rectangular piece of acrylic that fits over the top like a filter holder. I've done this for nems on the rampage Another option is drilling overflow holes. 4 per "tooth". I had to do this on the overflow for my fluval edge.

Looks good!! As they say, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure!

Sounds like a good trip, always nice getting to chat with a few of the guys while zipping around Portland!

Ran 200lbs through acid bath yesterday, to put the info all in one place, here's a quick write-up for those that haven't done it but need/want to. Why? Excessive phosphate, organics, pests, and suspected light copper use are a few reasons. Most LR sold locally comes out of tanks that have been neglected for a while before being torn down, some just is out of water for too long and has die-off. You can roll the dice and deal with phos/pest issues for years, or take 4-5 hours to do the procedure written below. Bear with me as I'm typing this on my phone. 1. Pressure Wash - Get as much organic crud off the rock as possible. If you need to, you can always make a trip to the carwash if you can't source a pressure washer for a couple days. 2. Bleach Bath - put the rock in a tub, use a 5 gallon bucket to measure water needed to submerge the rock. You want a 1 to 5 bleach/water mix. So 30 gallons of water gets 6 gallon jugs of bleach. Toss in a pump or powerhead for circulation and leave for 24 hours. 3. Rinse - The organics will be oxidized and stringy filth will be everywhere. Pull the rock and rinse well!! Two ways: either soak in water and rinse or pressure wash again (recommended). 4. Prep for Acid - with muratic acid, 10-1 water/acid works well. Mined rock (Marco Rock) will disolve faster than figi, don't go above 10-1 if you are cleaning this type. If you have figi type you can go to 10-1.5 for really nasty rock. Buy gallon jugs of muratic acid (pool supply or bigbox store), a pair of gloves so you can reach the bottom of your tub, a big box of baking soda, goggles if you don't have any. 5. Acid Bath - put the rocks in, submerg in water. I use a powerhead on this part to prevent mass offgassing of acid hitting a single spot. Now, I add the acid to the rock and water. I do this to prevent splashing straight acid (which happens when you add water/rock to acid). I slowly pour in one jug at a time until the reaction gets rolling spaced about a minute apart. Splashing is prevented and the reaction slowly increases versus having crap bubble everywhere. Running at 10-1, you can let the reaction run it's course (20-30 mins). When the bubbling slows, you can grab out a piece of rock with the gloves and see how it's going. I let the bubbling completely stop (PH neutral) and add a couple cups of baking soda. Let it circulate for a few minutes and its done! 6. Rinse and Store - Pull the rock and rinse (or pressure wash). You can now set it out to dry for long term storage, put it in a tub for cycling bacteria, or place them in an established tank a few rocks at a time spread out over a few weeks. If you are going to cycle/or toss in a tank, let it soak overnight in Prime or some other de-chlorinator just to play it safe. If its getting dry stored, the chlorine will evaporate.

Thanks Randy! Will do!