MVPaquatics

Alk (carbonates) is your buffer system. Buffer system affects pH.

Scroll down to the part showing relationships between calcium, alk and pH. Different pH values will have different calcium and alk values respectively. Low pH values = lower calcium and alk values. Its a basic buffering system

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.php

Personally i do monitor pH. Depending what my pH swing is via my monitor says I can tell you almost exaclty what my alk is. 8.1-8.3 swing my alk is around 8 if it goes to 7.9-8.1 it is at 6. My swing tells me when to dose. I dont test alk anymore other than to periodically test my theory. But if your pH drops around 7.9 or lower you will almost definitely have low alk. I dont have a sand bed so pH is important to me.

If your corals show no distress let it ride. It will get used up. Careful about alk additions as it will be more likely to precipitate. I would chill on further kalk additions until you get the hang of the new salt.

41 years young and still turning heads everywhere she goes. She said thanks for checking a little bit off her to-do list lol

It turned out to be a bad switch. I ohm/volt tested it and that was it. New one at baxters was $15. Did the 192 to 168 bulb switch while i was in there, as well as replaced all rusty fuses. Also fixed the signal indicators that were not working all the time.

Next up is the temp gauge and battery indicator, as well as calibarate the speedo, license plate and backup lights. I will research those before i ask questions and start new threads if needed.

Again thanks for the help/pointers and links. It really made it MUCH faster than without. Hopefully someone else can use this and learn something. Crazy good help, and from a fish forum no less! Thanks again

Does it have a dash light rheostat? Did you try messing with that? Sometimes they get a bad connection and have to be operated back and forth for a little while to get them going again.

By rheostat do you mean mutifunction? Its pull halfway for park, pull all the way for headlights twist to get cluster brighter (part that doesnt wprk)and twist and click for dome light

I think i have it narrowed down to the headlight switch. Power goes into switch, splits into headslight, park lights dome and cluster/instrument. Then it goes to fuse panel then to repsective lights. Everything works except cluster/instrument gauge lights.

It must be the switch because all other wires were ohmed out and test ok. Just no power between switch and fuse box for cluster lights. Any way to test the switch? Someone said something about B+ but i am unfamiliar with that setting, or is it a result?

I have a buddy asking questions on the 67-72 chevy truck forum! Thanks racefan!

Apprecaite everyones help

Does it have a dash light rheostat? Did you try messing with that? Sometimes they get a bad connection and have to be operated back and forth for a little while to get them going again.

I think i have it narrowed down to the headlight switch. Power goes into switch, splits into headslight, park lights dome and cluster/instrument. Then it goes to fuse panel then to repsective lights. Everything works except cluster/instrument gauge lights.

It must be the switch because all other wires were ohmed out and test ok. Just no power between switch and fuse box for cluster lights. Any way to test the switch? Someone said something about B+ but i am unfamiliar with that setting, or is it a result?

I have a buddy asking questions on the 67-72 chevy truck forum! Thanks racefan!

I only ask because I got a few pm's from other people with similar trucks when I showed pics of it in the cars thread

I have a 71 chevy stepside. Everything was working a year ago. Sat for a year. Brought it back out. Everything is great but the instrument cluster lights dont work. All other lights work. Signals work both outside and inside indicators. Gauge lights do not. Red brake light works upon startup. Just not the gas gauge, speedo etc. Tried fuses, no success.

Multimetered the fuses by putting negative to chassis ground and positive to fuse bottoms, all but the PNL lights (top right) fuse shows around 12.5 volts with truck off. This is correct? Also ohmed out fuse and wires from instrument cluster to fuse box and got a good signal (that indicates no short correct?).

I am wondering why or how I could be getting no power to one spot on fuse box? Any ideas?

Also, fuse box says 3A in some spots, like PN lights...that is 3 amps fuse correct? PO had a 30 amp in one of them,but it wasnt one being used. Probably just holding an extra...but 3A requires a 3amp fuse right? I highly doubt the abbreviated haha

Let me also say it is very refreshing to see such thought and knowledge going into your posts and responses totoro. I have always pondered a cyano scrubber of sorts but on a much more simplified basis, kind of a fight fire with fire kind of thing. I for one appreciate the time and energy that you are giving to take it to a new level

Just out of curiosty, you touched a little on how iron fits into the mix...anymore info on that?

And on a side note, I totally agree about hobbiests not wanting scientific literature quote, they are into see it to believe it. Great read!

Fequent water changes and light stocking/feeding coupled with good flow and adequate filtration always helps me

I am working with the guys at The oregon aquarium. The new public aquarium being built in milwuakee. I am sure they would be interested in some when the time comes. Probably a few months out yet. Ill keep you posted

Awesome to see it running again. You will have your hands full!

Dose some. Test in an hour. Repear til you are satisfied. I use a ratio of 75% bicarbonate to 25% carbonate to avoid pH swings one way or another

So i was right? 10ml? Thats barely anything. I dose 400 ml

Dose more then.

I doubt carbon caused it if its for aquarium use. The other corals may be affected in time but sps and then lps will show first signs. Zoas and many softies can live through much worse. Chloramines?

pH. Ammonia. Nitrites. Run carbon in case a foreign substance got in. Maybe a dose of prime depending on other tests. Copper? Test anything that can be detrimental to corals. Run prime for heavy metals and carbon for that and others.

I was under the impession kent salt was map priced (minimum advertised price)...

Edit: maybe it isnt anymore. My lists used to say it was along with IO and reef crystals but now it just says seachem and oceanpure.

Yeah. I have a few leads. I need 2.25 inch and 3 inch. They get spendy at that size. Especially for quality ones. Got quite a few holes to do

Anyone know the best place around portland to get drill bits for cutting glass?

I agree. Step in the right direction

Yeah selling the filter. Say $15. Free cycled media with purchase lol. If you end up needing it. Let me know by pm. Ill return my address and set it out. I am completely swamped as far as schedule but can get it out for you in the am and you can pick it up whenever that day

I think i have an extra biowheel filter laying around if you need another. probably have some cycled filter media also. Good luck, you are doing the right thing

Isnt it petcos sale?

+1 on just finding some with soy or syrups. DMSO can be nasty. I wonder what hes doing wih barrels of it. Probably not the safest stuff to be playing with or washing down the drain. I personally would look elsewhere.

you said you ran it in fresh water and then let it dry?

 

should be fine to use now

Agreed. If it can live through that i dont think vinegar or bleach will do it either...