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MVPaquatics

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Posts posted by MVPaquatics

  1. So you have the solaris wrasse....very cool and mix well with others?

     

    This is why I try to hand feed as many fish as possible...if they need to be removed, they come up to eat from my hand and BOOM, I just put the net in under him and swipe him out! this has worked for tangs, sixlines, and other wrasses....

  2. oh they do...but you can frag them...my friend cut one in half and it healed just fine, it just took a long time to regain a round shape.

     

    I am thinking if you cut into quarters (keeping a portion of mouth for each), that it would take shape much faster. I have a fungia that hasn't changed in like 7 years...time to hack at it hahaha!

     

    Here is a link to an article about fragging...my fungia is like the one in the center.

    http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-12/fotm/index.php

  3. yeah I used one to frag some duncans...very nice!

     

    I really want to frag my bright orange fungia! Its one of my favorites and I just bought an extra so I can frag it and still have my original in case of a mishap. Have you ever cut one into quarters? like cut in half and then in half again the other way?

  4. I am looking to buy some fish for a tank I maintain. It seems chromis are having shipping problems among many suppliers.

     

    I am willing to pay a decent price for an established school (say up to 12) of blue-green chromis?

     

    Let me know if you know of anything...again I would prefer established fish if possible

  5. I work mostly in Corvallis, Philomath, or Albany. But I definitely know qualified people in the Portland area.

     

    Dart frogs are very easy to maintain...they are like corals in that they are very sensitive but once established can be very long lived and hardy. The kinds I keep can be in groups. A 10 gallon could easily support a pair. The "hardest" part about keeping them is keeping up on fruit fly cultures, which isn't very hard at all once you get a system down.

  6. I thought I should introduce myself...and my company. My name is Mike Mahar. I own MVP Aquatics, LLC. We are a small (for now) aquarium/terrarium maintenance and installation company in Corvallis, OR.

     

    I went to OSU for a little over 6 years. I was a JR in business school when I decided to make the big switch (to the shock of many) to major in zoology (hence the extra 2 years UGH!). However, I absolutely love it and would recommend it to anyone. It also sets you up perfectly for vet or med school (I am not going that route-too much school/$!) But again I can't say how cool it was to go to school for a degree that you get to apply to your hobby so intensely.

     

    I also worked at Animal House Exotic Pets for 5 years and have been in the hobby for about 10. I quit Animal House recently to better my own business and was looking to get out of the retail area.

     

    Many people think I am a store because of the amount I sell (livestock/mostly corals or cleaners) and the prices I sell at (I know good prices because I looked at wholesale lists for 5 years(nutty)). The fact is I am not. I shop at the same stores as most of you, online and local. I really have to shop around for the best deals, most wholesalers won't even talk to maintenance people. My freshwater, saltwater, and dart frogs tanks are all packed into my 2 bedroom, 1000 sq ft apartment (luckily they have no tank policy!) Sometimes I need to bump up an order just to get free shipping so I will ask friends if they need anything, usually at cost. Sometimes I don't need to make money, just make minimum order. I have absolutely no room for storage, so I HAVE to price the FEW items I do have to sell fast. When it comes to my personal tanks, I "spare no expense." I love gadgets and toys, the bigger and more complex, the better!

     

    My personal tanks consist of a 100 gallon reef display, that is attached to a propagation/banggai breeding setup of a 20L and 33L. I have probably over 100 kinds of corals and some clams. The main display is 5 feet x 18 inch x 20 or 22. It has 3x250 watt halide with 20k, and 3x110 VHO 2 actinic, 1 daylight. I shot for the 1000 watt mark to make it a little over 10 watts per gallon, I wanted crazy bright! The 33 gallon "timeout" tank is where I put hermits and things who aren't behaving. It just has corals/inverts and my parent pair of Banggai Cardinals. The 20L has a 175 watt 20k halide with frags and baby banggais. The system as a whole is about 7 years old but has been running where it is for 4.

     

    My other tank (which I am looking to upgrade) is a 72 gallon bowfront slightly brackish water tank with a monster size silver scat, even bigger gold datnoid (my fav fish), Synodontis eupterus, blackspot eel and various plecos and catfish. It has 2 fluval 405s running it. I have had all these fish for about 7 years and would probably keep them over my salt fish (whistle). I have always run a UVB bulb on the tank (used to have a turtle) and think it might account for the supersized fish in the tank and lack of algae. I am setting up an experiment to see if in fact it UVB bulbs might help fish grow and keep algae down, despite hearing numerous times it doesn't penetrate water deep enough (we will see!:D)

     

    My other tank is a 54 gallon corner tank with 6 Dendrobates leucomelas dart frogs (the yellow&black ones). It is a thicket of plants of all kinds. I have another 40 or so gallon exo-terra with Dendrobates azureus (the bright blue/black ones). Both tanks have power-compact lighting with 50/50 bulbs and automated mister and foggers that come on a few times daily. The only real maintenance here is keeping fruit fly culture up and running, trimming plants, etc.

     

    There are at least 6 other tanks running at all times. They could be for any client that needs one at the time. There is usually both salt and fresh tanks going at all times. I always have rock/driftwood to store, fish to quarantine or treat, corals and inverts to store temporarily. There is a lot of shuffling due to lack of space, but I would love to have even more tanks!

     

    MVP Aquatics specializes in freshwater and saltwater aquariums of ANY kind. However, I have recently taken my dart frog hobby "public" too and will be installing/maintaining a few shortly(clap).

     

    I am desperately trying to track down a nice, yet affordable, camera to photograph my setups, clients setups, and create a website (one thing I have no idea how to do). If you know of one (nikon or canon), please let me know, I'm always looking!

     

    WOW, I think that is enough for now, I am sure more will come up, I hope to meet you all soon! Is there ever a Corvallis area meeting? Please don't hesitate with any questions!

  7. hey...I am in corvallis too...I breed Banggais...chances are if you bought them in/around corvallis they are from me...I have about 10 left ready to go right now...

     

    are you wanting to breed them? If so let me know...I would possibly be willing to take yours and and give you another. I have done this many time for people wanting a pair.

     

    One tip I give people is to just float the fish in the bag for awhile...the fish you are wanted to pair knows a lot more than we do about sexing...if the original fish goes up to the bag and presents itself sideways and doesnt want to leave...bingo. If he darts up fast from below and swims away...don't even release and we can try again. Ive even give people groups before until they pair off and they can return them...no one pays unless they kill it.

     

     

    I would do this for a few reasons...

    1) These fish need help and the more we breed them the better!

    2) If it is from me (I sell to many local retailers), I stand behind my fish and have swapped out many times for people looking for a pair (I am definately not trying to corner a market....Id rather help save a species). Plus, if it isnt mine I always like to bloodline.

     

    Let me know...if you are in corvallis we can probably meet up somewhere. I have lots of other stuff too.

     

    Mike

  8. So....as I am sure this is said over and over....especially by me....I think I made a bad decision....again. I ordered an egg....was supposed to be a marble cat but when it arrived I quickly noticed it is a banded bamboo.DOH!....anyway.....this wasn't supposed to arrive for a month...but it shipped the next week..(comp)..very bad for timing.

     

    Please advise if you see anything I post to be inaccurate.

     

    I currently only have a 60g cube.....WAY to small(scary). But I am working, and have been, on moving into a 180 to 240...the later being the better choice. I was only looking at these 2 tanks because the marble only gets 24 inches by my research where the bamboo gets like 30 and requires a 300g. Please let me know if this isn't accurate.

     

    When I ordered the egg I also put in a line for a queen trigger and titan trigger:D.....can you tell I am shooting for aggression(naughty)? Anyway after some research I quickly cancelled the 2 triggers..(sad)..as they will pick on the shark..(enforcer)..from what I read anyway.

     

    I placed the egg in my sandbed as that is where I was told to put it....but again after reading I am finding that suspending it is a better idea.....how do I do this? I read that low to medium flow is ideal....but does lighting have any affect? I don't want to fry the guy....I have a 250w DE HQI which only sits around 4 inches off the surface.....how far down do I suspend it?

     

    What signs am I looking for, for an unhappy or unhealthy shark?

     

    The shark only appears to be about 2 to 3 inches max with a decent sized yoke....maybe the size of a ping pong ball....how long do I have before this badboy hatches? after cancelling the triggers I added another egg...in hopes of getting the opposite sex...the dude told me he could tell sex and he SAYS he sent me a male.....unfortunately I cannot cancel the eggs once ordered and paid for....which these are....is there any issues with having both a bamboo and a marble?

     

    I am hoping that this thread gets updated frequently as I will be posting as many updates and questions as I can. Pic's will be coming tonight along with a video. The shark is active in the egg(plotting).

     

    Current tank mates are:

    Lawnmower blenny

    Melanarus Wrasse

    Hippo Tang

    Snowflake eel

    Serpant Starfish

    Skunk cleaner shrimp

    Snowflake Eel

    hermits

    snails

    Niger Trigger....little worried about this one...but also my favorite fish in the tank....pre-shark that is(whistle).

     

    do you forsee any issues with the above listed?

     

     

    I have read to avoid Lionfish but I dont understand why....the puffers and aggressive triggers I read will pick at the eyes of the shark so those are understood....but is the niger in the same boat?

     

    lastly, I recently stubbled upon wetwebmedia and having just started doing alot of reading....Bob Fenner seems to be a huge resource there....now if I can just find out where he lives, find a van with blacked out windows, ski mask, taser, and duck tape I would have a good resource at home(naughty)....all jokes aside....please understand....this wasn't supposed to arrive for a month so I assumed I had time to do plenty of reading BEFORE this arrived.

     

    I would prefer to NOT be picked apart here as I already know that I am in "bonehead" zone ATM. But I refuse to fail and I refuse to punish ths animal anymore than putting it in an aquarium. I am fully aware that I am currently up poopy creek at the moment but I fully intend on accomidating these and learning as much as I possibly can to provide a happy and healthy environment here.

     

     

    I have had experience with about 10 of these eggs/sharks in my retail days....owner would buy them and I would take care of them.

     

    Nori clip works great...I had them in about a 280 gallon (8foot) tank. I hang them about halfway down and have had them under a 6 bank t5 or 400watt hailde. (I believe in nature they are attached to grass blade type things). Medium randomized flow is optimal as that is how the shark gets new O2.

     

    You can tell a healthy shark by the movement inside....should look as if almost swimming inside...yolk gets smaller...shark bigger...then its almost all shark packed inside...it almost always hatches at night. they are usually about 4 or so inches give or take and depending where you measure it. they will hide a lot upon first hatching. they seem to like the dark. Can take anywhere from 30-60 days depending on capture size.

     

    about max size....really really depends....books from wild specimens get 3.5feet. I like to think aquarium animals usually get aroun 2/3 wild size give or take environment, diet, and size at capture.

     

    I would not mix with those specific triggers...wild titans reach 2.5 feet and have an big tendency to get bored/destructive in captivity. but you already found this out im sure...how about a blue spot ray? When mixing sharks you must provide ample space and match sizes...if it looks like food they will try and the damage is usually done.

     

    I have no info as far as sexing...but would be interested to know.

     

    youre using fine sand correct? Also, round tanks are best...they spook easily and will fly into glass or out, plan a sturdy lid!

     

    I always preferred to have no tank mates until it hatches and feeds readily.

    They are easily bullied and very shy at first. The hardest part is finding what food to feed....I usually try everything the local seafood place has chopped small and try to locate where it is (usually hiding after hatching) and drop the foods to it. Also the can be crepuscular...active dawn and dusk.

     

    Probably avoiding lions incase of ingestion other wise i think it would be fine (unless you get one of those panicy sharks that paces) Lions dont like to be stirred up.

     

    email me if you have any more questions.

    Mike

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