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MVPaquatics

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Posts posted by MVPaquatics

  1. I have my old stand and hood from my 100 gallon free to anyone asap. Largest it can fit is 61"x 19". Made of 4x4 pressure treated. Heavily reinforced. Outside was birch plywood that has been painted black. Underside is primer white. Hood has fully opening doors to allow for maximum workspace while not getting in the way to hit your head on (they flip up to open and sit on the top. Also black, with moulding and primer white inside. A few fan cutouts ( none really visable). The stand has cutouts on the side for dj powerstrips (not included) and some plumbing that went through.

     

    Here is a pic: tank and sump not included (these arent free and I cant sell here so maybe watch for craigslist).

    IMAG0477.jpg

     

    Anyone want the hood and stand. Nicely built, I thought Id ask before they are scrapped

  2. Water changes might help but at 20% a week isnt going to raise your alk enough. 3-4 points is a lot.

     

    Do my ratio. I would feel comfortable doing it in one day. Raising the alk isnt the issue, especially going from low to normal, we arent going from normal to waaaay up (corals would notice that). The big deal is ph swing. At 5.8 dkh, you may be at 8.3 during the day but at night you are probably 7.7-7.8. Way too low.

     

    I dont get why of something is out of whack, people say to test for it, and when its a weird reading, the blame the test kit, then why test? Its actually pretty simple chemistry. Soda ash raises alk, and ph. Baking soda raises dkh but can lower pH. Doing a proper ratio (about 3 or 4 parts baking soda to one part soda ash). I honestly believe you can go from 1 to 9 dkh in one day as long as ph is kept stable. Ask frankb, i helped him through thisa month or two ago

  3. Use sodium bicarbonate. Aka baking soda. This will slightly lower pH. You can raise you alk a lot more without affecting pH so much by using a 3 part dose of baking soda and then dose one part soda ash. The pH drop will cancel the raising of the other

  4. Wow thanks for sharing. I had at least a dozen classes with the guy, countless study sessions. He was incredibly influential in my chemistry knowledge and passion. He needs to be given an explanation, isnt that against the law? He should apply for unemployment, then OSU will have to give a reason if they want to appeal. Either way it is sad. A huge loss for OSU. This is one beaver grad who is not happy how the university is responding

  5. unless there is a loose connection somewhere it sounds like a ballast, or ballasts, are shot. use bulbs you know that work, and check connections. If it doesnt work with good bulbs and connections the ballast is shot. If the ballasts are shot, just get a replacement workhorse 7 (does 4-39watters) or 2 workhorse 5's (does 2-39 watters).

     

    I believe there is a tool to test ballasts and bulbs http://www.milwaukeetool.com/test-and-measurement/lighting-testers/fluorescent-lighting-tester/2210-20.

     

    I think I am going to get one of these

     

    PM me if you need further assistance

  6. Amps = watts / volts. Your 432 watt fixture is pulling 3-4 amps. Kind of overkill to have its own 20 amp breaker. Doesnt the 20 amp take a larger gauge wire than a 15 amp? That could be a costly expense for overkill. I dont know about your heating and pumps but lights and heaters and chillers are the power hogs. I cant see a 75 gallon needing more than one 20 amp or 2-15.

  7. Can you give more info on the BBS part, were to get them to start, how to house them, etc

    Thanks

     

    I use the classic 2-liter method.

     

    Cut the bottom off an washed 2-liter bottle.

    Turn upside down (leave cap on).

    I put these into a sump or a small tank that has a heater.

    Put RIDGID airline tubing down to the bottom into the neck of the bottle (this prevents settling)

    Connect Ridgid tubing to SMALL airpump using regular airline (a valve system is usually needed)

     

    Filling

    I decapsulate my eggs. This is WAY less messy and allows brine to have more nutritional content by not having to "hatch"

    To do this:

     

    Add maybe a teaspoon or so (more or less as you want) of eggs to bottle

    add regular tap water to about 3 inches from top.

    Let the eggs hydrate (while bubbling) in this water for about 45 min.

    After this, add 1-2 inches of bleach leaving room at the top (seems like a lot I know).

    Wait about 10-15 mins. DONT walk away. Watch as eggs turn from dull brown, to white, to bright orange

    Bright orange is done

    what you are doing is dissolving their outer shell. They dont have to hatch through this which allows them to keep their nutritional content up. You also dont have nasty, indigestible shells entering the tank.

    Strain eggs in FINE brine shrimp net (some "brine shimp" nets are finer than others).

    Rinse well in tap water.

    Add eggs to a two liter with salt water (I use reef water)

    I usually add a drop or 2 of prime in case.

     

    Hatching usually occurs then within 18-24 hrs depending on temp. Then you want to feed then within 4-6 hours or you will need to enrich.

     

    I have at least 3 bottles going all the time. Hydrating/newly hatching, just hatching, and enriching. Just move them down the line.. I make new ones every two days or so.

     

    To enrich I use Selcon or some HUFA supplement (important!) I also use ZOE. I like that stuff and am a firm believer in the power of spirulina.

     

    Hope that helps! Let me know if you have any questions!

  8. I wouldnt take it offline. Maybe take some out. I find it is more of an issue the first time it is used in a system. A few products have a warning on the back about sps and acros. It is usually just a dip in alk, it usually catches back up, maybe dose a little alk. Although i will never say dont do a water change. That cant ever hurt

     

    Your alk has probably dropped a little. Maybe to 6 or so. It may already be on its way back up (depending on system load and dosing etc) but another thing is that a low alk will cause more of a pH swing. Birdsnests hate both swings, alk and pH. Just test and stabilize.

  9. Got a nice snow shot of my element. I love these cars. Good price, reliable, comfortable, safe. Ours is all wheel drive and does really well in snow (not this stuff but the pass in winter with no chains).

     

    It is also one of my primary maintenance vehicles. I love the non carpeted interior and i have had it loaded to the max with 5 gallon buckets of water and you can hardly notice

     

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