jgf86123

a couple more, i think, but, i dont think they will work for the motif we're working with, its an asian theme in the room, and im not sure the posts will work, on top of that, none of them are perfectly straight, which makes things quite difficult, ona plus note, it is perfectly level lol

here's the pics, see what i mean by 4" posts? i want to swap those out for 2x4's to make the lines cleaner, then im going to skin it in 3/4" carpenter grade stain ready plywood, then paint it we have a japanese motif going in the room, so the stand must match it lol

thanks man, ill let ya know, i might need some help at some point, what with the future father in law altering my plans on me lol

i saw that lol if it works out, let me know man

no, its 4" round fence posts, he insisted on using em, i wanted 2x4's lol he said why waste the money when these will work, but, they wont really work for the theme we're going for, so, im going to redo them

lookin really good chief, looks like we're doing our frag builds at the same time man lol

my methods always been the hammer an concrete method personally, although i have used a forklift on a cell phone that wasnt working right, not a good idea to be honest lol i still havent tested the glass yet, still need to clean it, but, i did get my stand roughed in, so ill have to post up some more pics in my build thread

rick, if you have might be having a k2 to get rid of, let me know a price, id be interested in it

well, i have my stand roughed in, ill have to get some pics up later on, im not too happy with it, and still might change some things, like replacing the 4" posts with 2x4's, future father in law insisted on using posts, so what could i do? lol

not bad looking at all, but, i would definitely recommend topping your tank off, you want to keep the water as close to the top as you can without it spilling over.

if your willing to part it out, i might be interested in the powerheads

so i guess i need to get a pair of polarized sun glasses and im assuming the lcd screen doesnt have to be on, so ill use my laptop to check it with, thanks a ton guys, you made my night for sure

hey guys, as some of you know, i just picked up a 30 breeder yesterday, the guy i got it from was unsure of the manufacturer, but was fairly certain, after having talked to 3 different tank makers, that it is untempered. i was wondering if there was a way to test this to make sure? im looking to drill a hole in the bottom of the tank and in one side for drain and return so i hope some of you can tell me the answer to this question. thanks mick

this is very good to know, as im hoping to eventually get an mp40w for my new build, ill have to start off with a pair of used k2's, but, eventually, i will have a vortech for it

that is a gorgeous acan

lol no hurries man, i havent even had my tank drilled yet, hopefully, baring any unforeseen happenings, that will happen sunday, it wont be up and running til the first of the month, minimum lol

hey byrd, are you including the powerheads in this? if not, would you be willing to sell them?

it all really depends bobby, i would deifnitely get your water tested at an LFS, not a petco lol

what are you using to check your salinity? a refrac or a hydrometer? api are ok, sometimes, but they have a tendency to crap out when you need em the most, id suggest heading to an LFS, i prefer rosecity and seahorse personally, although davey jones locker is good too, and let them test your water for you. also, a cycle can last up to 2 months for a saltwater tank, its rare, but not totally unheard of, my original cycle when i first set up my 20 long was 5 weeks before everything evened out to where it was supposed to be, and that was using 12 y/o live rock from an established tank that never dried out

ouch, thats a rough trip, but i feel your pain, its over an hour for me how long did you let the water sit before you did the change? i try to let my new water sit with a powerhead and heater for at least 24 hours before i do a change, just to give everything a chance to stabilize. that could be whats causing the spike, if thats the case, id recommend mixing up new water, and letting it set for at least 24 hours and then doing a 25% or better change

ive been told for years that the strips just arent reliable at all, if i could make a recommendation, take a trip to seahorse or rose city down in portland, they're both great stores, and have them test your water, just to make sure your kit isnt bad. on a side note, ive never heard of ammonia being affected by the brand of salt, you may have had something die in your tank, a crap, snail, something, and that could be what is causing the ammonia spike.

i know people who run 50-60x turnover in their tanks, a friend of mine on the east coast has 4 mp40w's in his 120g aga tank, makes for a LOT of water moving, but, his corals absolutely love it, as do his fish

got it, most definitely will get the good one lol

are you using an api test kit? it might have gone bad if thats the case, mine was showing an extremely high amount of ammonia, and i went and had it tested with a salifert kit, and my ammonia was 0, my test kit has gone bad and i now need to get a new one lol

that is ingenious, ill have to eventually incorporate that into my build for my frag tank, thanks finch