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moovinfast

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Everything posted by moovinfast

  1. its been up and running 4 months since the first cycle. Maybe Ill just ignore the ammonia test kit since nitrites and nitrates are 0
  2. I just picked up my GOC frag from him, but he couldn't find an ammonia test kit.
  3. Its hard to tell in the pic, but the tube on the far right is just the ro/di water and it looks like 0ppm in person. The strip thing comes from earlier. I took a sample of the water to our LFS which is Petco. They use the strips to test the water.
  4. The water mixed with a Powerhead and heater for 18-20 hours
  5. The tube in the middle is left over Fresh Ro/di water with salt that I used for the water change. Never went into the tank. And the Seahorse would be a 2 hour trip.
  6. Yes its an API kit. But it hasn't tested high before and I took the water in to Petco (its the only fish place around here) and they tested it with whatever their strips are and it came out the same as our test but their ammonia read .3
  7. So one or two of our corals weren't looking happy so we decided to test the water. And everything looked fine except the ammonia. Ive been having a hard time figuring out why the ammonia in our tank showed up suddenly. Its always been 0 since our first cycle. Its a 72 gallon with a 20 gallon sump and 120+lbs of live rock. We have 2 small clown fish, a blenny, a coral beauty, 3 chrommies and a bubble anemone and a carpet anemone. We did a 15 gallon water change 2 days ago and tested the water yesterday and the ammonia was still high. So I looked for anything dead in the tank. Took out a zoa frag that never opened since we got it and looked like it was melting. Also cleaned out the overflow. Didnt find anything dead in the tank or sump. So today I did another water change of 20 gallons. And here are the results a few after hours after: Ph 8.2-8.4 Temp 79 Salinity 1.025 Nitrate 0-5 nitrite 0 P04 0 Ammonia .5 I think its from our salt. We just changed salts the water change before. What should I do? Everything else looks happy except for one zoa frag. From left to right. 1.Water from tank 2.Ro/di water with salt 3. Ro/di water
  8. Good luck with the house. I know it can be a big headache
  9. I would like to know also. My new tank should be here in the next day or two. But it will probably be a week or two until its up and running. I want to do it as an sps tank to try out the led light im building.
  10. I didnt really want to use powerheads in this tank, but look like that would probably be the cheapest solution
  11. I didnt get it as a QT tank. Wanted to try to build a LED light, but one for my 72 would be way to expensive. Still trying to see if I can get a better deal on the leds I need. If not I think we will go with MH of some sort til the price comes down on the leds a lil bit. Also we wanted another pair of clownfish. So this tank will just have a pair of skunk clowns, an anemone, sps and clams. Things I wanted to try to grow with leds. I just figured hooking it into the other tank would be the easiest route since they are going to be next to each other.
  12. So we are getting a new tank. About 26 gallons. 20"x20"15" tall. Its going to be hooked into our sump for our other tank. How large of a pump do you think I will need. The line for the pump will have to run about 8 3/4 feet along the wall and about 3 3/4 up to the tank. I have an extra rio 1700 but not sure its large enough. Also what lighting should I do? I want to be able to keep sps and clams. I was going to try to build a led fixture for it, but thats out of budget right now unless I can find some of the parts for cheap. Think a 70w 20k hqi bulb in a reflector would be enough?
  13. Mostly softies, but I do have some sps near the top and 2 anemones. I have a bubble tip and a carpet at the bottom. Everything is doing well so far. I can't keep clams in this tank as I have a fish that likes to eat them.
  14. So right now I have 4x54w t5s over my 72 gallon tank. 2 white and 2 blue with moon lighting. Im debating if I should upgrade my lighting. My current fixture has a built in timer. But whenever our power goes out and back on (it seems to happen alot here) the timer stops working and stays stuck however it was when the power went out. All I have to do is open it up and unplug and plug it back in and it all works again. I emailed who I bought it through to see if it has any warranty. Anyways what would the overall costs be to upgrading to MH and what wattage. Such as how much more power will I use and how much evaporation will I have compared to my current fixture. And can I run them without needing a chiller?
  15. our goodwill doesnt have anything that would work :(
  16. Reefboy, Whats in pic number 12? The orange ones.
  17. My friend just set up a saltwater tank and still has his test kit from his freshwater tank. He asked if it would work with saltwater and I told him it should with exception of the PH because its the wrong range. Was I correct?
  18. Trying to find a 20"x20" ish stand for cheap. I think a stand for a 29g biocube is 21 1/2" x 20 1/2"
  19. I know what you mean. Thats why I only play games on consoles now. I run into less hacking/cheating
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