grassi

You are welcome. That's a Florida

You also have to configure the port forwarding section of your router to point at your cam's IP address

I wonder who your mysterious friend is (whistle)

Good job. I like the floors too!

Always full of corals, fish and inverts. All looking great in the spot clean tanks. Thanks for the good deals. Cos, it was nice meeting you and have a chance for a chat. Alex

This is what is gonna look like:

The Omega is an amino acid complex which is supposed to be used as an aid for better absorption of the Elos coral food, the Pro Skimmer. It is a complex of different elements, that's why it works best with the pro skimmer. In an ideal situation the sps will open up more when the lights are off. So people tend to drop the products a few minutes before and after light goes off. This will insure you to give your corals the maximum amount of food they can take. If your goal is a fast growth, go that way. If you want more polyp extension when you can see it, then drop the products during the day, like in the morning. The sps should slowly open up more during the day. On a side note for all of us using this product: the warm season is coming. After some readings on an italian forum I suggest you guys to put the Pro Skimmer in the refrigerator during the warm months. It is not mandatory as per instructions (just dark and dry), but it make perfect sense to keep organic food refrigerated. Well, it is not necessary if you have an AC unit and you keep the house <70-75f

From what I know they usually die after they can't find their food (flatworms).

It could just be that you have to "train" them to open up when lights are on. The feeding and supplementing schedule can help that process. Most of the people that notice a "great polyp extension" when using products like the Elos omega and pro skimmer are just unconsciously training the sps to open up at a more enjoyable time (for our eyes I mean). They were probably opening up before as well, but during the night

They are closed when the lights are off too?

Forgot to say. When I had them the super slow corals were not growing at all. Some dying. After I eradicated them even my oregon tort started to grow at a good rate

I treated my tank with no harm. But I have a 100g sump and 4 tanks connected with a lot of surface. So I didn't kill all my pods population. I went for a light version applied more times (4) at 1 week interval. Now I dip the new arrivals with interceptor. I've lost some during the dip, but this is the price to pay. I also leave them in a QT now. Learned by mistake As Miles (impur) pointed out, if you treat your tank they have to die. Follow the article that reefnjunkie posted. If you go for treating them in another vessel, then leave the corals in quarantine. As the word says: 40 days at least. So the new born will die in your tank without acros. Millis and seriatopora should be fine in the display

I've found this info on RF and I tried. Works well. Get a bottle of Iodine Tincture from walgreens (not the Lugol's) Put 50ml of ro/di water in a clean container and then add less or more 6,25ml of iodine tincture. Stir for a few second then drop the probe in it. It should read between 440 and 455 mV. If it is not in the range try to clean the probe and redo the test. If it is still out it probably needs to be recalibrated. The iodine tincture has a limited shelf life so, when possible it is advised to use standards (also because they are cheap). But if you don't have them on hand, this method works well too.

I wasn't gonna close it. It was another joke :P Anyway, the price for the full system and corals is $100000 Deliver everywhere in Oregon included in the price. I can set it up at your place and train you about how to use it for an additional fee (2 six packs of Stone IPA)

It wasn't me ho reported your thread lol But I closed it, so to be fair I'm gonna close this one too :P

What do you use for testing? Source water? A pic will help too

Can I lick the floor???? I can't lick the paint because there is lead in it

No, I haven't. I used phyto a few years ago and I had good results with a small tank. But it was easy to solve the issues with a small volume

It could be just turf algae that grows in high flow areas. Give us some more infos about your setup, the usual infos: how old, dosed products, livestock....

You might want to check out this product (and similar) for continuous phyto feeding: http://www.planctonite.com/products.php?pid=13

There are many people running phyto based systems with success, especially in Europe where the Grotech products are ready available. I don't mean just pouring some commercial brand phyto every other day, but dropping huge amounts of home cultured phyto (about 30ml per 100l) Phyto, believe it or not, can help the process of nutrients reduction if dosed well. The problem is that it is not easy to culture and dose, so it is a method which is not for everyone. I think that it is a good idea to give it a try and see if the method works well for your tank husbandry. Keep us updated with your results

I just received the radon report of the house I'm in the process of buying and the values are a little bit high. Other than the funny thread title, I was wondering if some of you guys has a reduction unit running in the basement, if it is effective and how painful is the maintenance. Also, how much did your bills increase after installing the unit? Thanks!

Thanks for the detailed explanation. The only thing I don't understand is why my new erotic bride is Clay.. He's taller than me, I can't even picture him as my bride As for Pisano, to which one you are referring too? There are at least 10 that I remember, including a friend of mine that is able to drive a nail with his forehead* *this is supposed to be the main test for being accepted in the Carabinieri (the italian police), the second being able to type on a keyboard with one finger only and the third being able to put a Fiat on the 5th gear