grassi

Mike the accuracy is not measured on the human mistake, but just on the cell itself. You have to add the human error factor on top of that. So if you are really good, you still have that 0.04 every time you test. The new Phosphorus checker has a better accuracy, but the quality of the reagent make it useless. With good reagents it can be an accurate checker. You still have to convert from P to PO4, but you already do some math when testing alk Kate, it looks like a nice idea. Let's do it not this time, but for the april meeting. I want to get some good reagents for my photometer first

0.3? that's a lot lol Most of the expert suggest to stay below 0.02 If you meant 0.03, then ok.. 0.02 or 0.03 are pretty much the same with the testing instruments that most of us are using

Don't worry Alessandro, this thread was already messed up And don't worry for your english as well: Italianish is the new english. 50 years from now we will all speak like me and you in this country.

That's a really nice tank Alereef. You really have to start a thread here! Mike, I have it connected to the main pump, so I have to measure. I guess around 250/300gph "by hand". There is a nice flow and the sand does not move. The bucket is on top of the sump stand, behind the 2 40g tanks so it drains down directly. Mick, my system is always growing so I have to adjust my setup every once in a while. And experimenting new techniques and see the effects is fun.

Frank, you can find them on craigslist: http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/grd/2269489033.html Wash them with vinegar or soda ash and you are ready to go. Mike, the problem of the Hanna phosphates, both the small unit and the blue one, is that the inaccuracy with the reagents is +/- 0.04. Which makes them useless for an sps tank where your goal is <0.02ppm With the Hanna I was always reading 0. Then I got the weater tested better and I found out to be around 0.025

Going back to Europe in a few... I'll give you a call when I'm back (end of april). By then the colony will be ready to be fragged for you and KMiller

As for being expensive... yes.. in 2 months I spent more in rc cars than one year in reef keeping!

I used to race 1/8 buggy at national level back in 1998/2000 Just got back into the hobby with a Savage and a Losi xxx-sct. Which LHS?

That's your job?

Well, I need some more ink...

Pending to Topher

Just added a remote deep sand bed. Let's see how it goes And added a second controller (Reef Angel, based on Arduino)

I fragged my colony while doing some rockscaping. Asking $25. Really nice colored one. About 10 branches showing all the 3 colors. Frag for sale just glued and pissed off: From ORA website:

It depends on your computer skills. Not really difficult. It just takes some time. But out of the box it is running really well without the need of writing a single line of code.

Looking really good Brad!

This one: http://www.hannainst.com/usa/prods2.cfm?id=009001002&ProdCode=HI%2096713 ?

Which low range Hanna do you use?

They are little toys. I own a couple. If you use them with other reagents they are useful too other than cute little eggs lol

No, and none of the other controllers does support one. Ca probes are not supposed to be for full immersion at now, they need continuous re-calibration and they are not reliable

I use Kent and I tested at 0 with the same device. I mean the same, Frank is using what was my colorimeter, same batch of reagent. With the Phosphorus low range I test the new saltwater at 0.03, but I think it is a problem of reagent. In the process of finding a better one. I clean the barrel once a month

Roberto, the guy behind it, will contact you soon. As for the power strip, it cost 50% less than the other ones on the market, so it is not too bad. Later today I should finish to set it up and I will take some pictures. I had my apex temp sensor going out of scale. I wonder if it is for some interference with the reef angel probes. I know they are working on that before to introduce the orp, salinity and oxygen (which are under testing right now). For now I recalibrated the temp sensor and I'm keeping an eye on it. The unit and the power strip are BIG compared to the more compact Apex, but that's not a problem if you have room for it. Also the power strip does include the connectors to manage led lights (maxwell drives through an adaptor or something like that). Last thing. If you install it as it is and don't start playing with the software, it is even more easy to use than an Apex. I like the way they divided all the thing by functions: ato is set up already (you can use as single or double), dosing pumps are set up already, LED's, light divided by function (main lights and supplementation lights) with the relative time settings. Chiller, heater and even Kalk reactor are already present in the standard code. It is very LED oriented, that's why they sell it with 3 temp sensors: tank, room and led's heat sink.

This is what I suspected too. But Frank is using a standard blue barrel like most of us.

"should", "standard tank", "it is possible" I left room for unexpected readings because I had a suspect, and now I know what it was :P