dsoz

If you are really brave, you can try Muriatic acid that you can buy at Home Depot. This is not for the light-hearted. It can be dangerous if not done correctly. PM me if you want more directions. Otherwise, lay the tank on it's side and use a lot of vinegar and let it sit overnight. Repeat with the other sides. But in all honesty, once you have water in there, the coraline algae will grow on the sides and you won't notice a little more calcium. It is a never ending battle with coraline algae. Good luck dsoz

Due to life changes, I will be selling off all that I have from this hobby. I have two 75g tanks to start with. One of them is AGA wood-looking trim with pine stand and hood. Someone commented on it saying it was a "Woodie special from Seahorse." It currently has PC lights in the hood (8x65w some are not working and I did not try to find out why), but they can be easily removed to make room for other lights. It was emptied, but not cleaned out yet. No holes drilled in it. It is a great basic tank. $100 for tank, stand and hood. 8x39w 3' T5HO TEK light from Sunlight Supply. Perfect for 40b tank (covers the entire tank perfectly). Used, but in good shape. Home-made plastic cover for the lights. Includes legs. New bulbs will be needed soon. $100. This model is no longer made by Sunlight Supply. The largest 3' light now has 6 bulbs.sold 45g long (same footprint as 55g, but a couple of inches shorter in height). Broken center brace. I used this as a sump for one of my tanks. $20 Stand for above 45g tank. Oak plywood. Has seen better days, and is no longer "furniture quality." Would also work for 55g tank. FREE with tank Lots of live rock! over 100# of "real" live rock at $2/lb (right side of tank) there is one large rock (about 43 lbs) and a bunch of smaller rocks in this photo Left side of tank- some really cool branch rock in there Over 300# of "man made" concrete rock. Some has been in my tanks, some is still outside, but probably cured. All was made over two years ago. $0.50/lb. dsoz

Hydno will win! I think Hydno will win in every encounter. Hydno seems to have no tentacles, but it has HUGE sweepers that come out at night. I have seen them longer than 4 inches attacking something that grew too close. dsoz

Looks like a great 'nem. Have you seen this page before? http://www.karensroseanemones.net/ If not, it is a great site to read all about anemones. She does have some strange ideas, but there are a few gems there too. Especially the one about covering powerheads. http://www.karensroseanemones.net/coverpowerheads.htm dsoz

I have a 75g tank that is collecting dust in my basement. Stand included. I don't want to trade, but will sell... cheap... $100 for tank, stand and hood (currently has PC lights, but can be changed to whatever you want. Located in Oregon City. dsoz

If it is the same foot print as a 75g (some 90g are), then I have a pine stand. I bought it used, and someone saw it and called it a "Woodie special" and that it came from Seahorse. I can get pictures of it if you want. dsoz

The good thing is that GHA is a food source for snails and hermits. I don't think much of anything eats dinos. Time to increase your CUC and do more water changes. The solution to pollution is dilution. Get rid of the food, and you get rid of the GHA. Good luck. dsoz

I have a bunch of rubble that I am going to get rid of, the only problem is that it is in my sump. No coraline. :( But if you still want the rubble, send me a PM. I probably have 10-20 lbs of fist size pieces. I can weigh it all out and give you a more accurate amount and price if you want it. Give it time and you will have more coraline that you want! To accelerate growth, dose calcium. The higher calcium levels stimulate coraline growth to the extreme. dsoz

sponge. Good for filtering out bad stuff. Don't pitch it. dsoz

Kalkwasser (aka limewater, calcium hydroxide, kalk, not "lime" juice) works also to raise pH. It also helps with calcium. I have a large container of it that I am not using any more. I could sell it to you fairly cheap. Research how to use it, but basically you take some and put it in a 2 L bottle with RO/DI water. Shake it up really good. Let the solid settle (it will still look milky white). Then depending on the size of your tank, and how much you want to raise the pH, you figure out how much to add. As an added bonus, the solid kalk can be used to kill aptasia or nuisance zoanthids (ugly ones that take over your tank). dsoz

Sending PM dsoz

I used to feed the asterina stars to my hammer/frogspawn or fungia corals... I would pick them off the glass and drop them in the corals and watch them get engulfed. I too had the asterina stars eat zoas... Bad news. :( dsoz

I have a Coralife SuperSkimmer that I am taking off my tank. It may be a little large for a nano. I can't remember if it is the 125gal or the 220gal model. PM me if interested. I am thinking $75. dsoz

It means that "I agree" or that "I reply in exactly the same way" Short way to show support for a good answer. HTH dsoz

It means that "I agree" or that "I reply in exactly the same way" Short way to show support for a good answer. HTH dsoz

PM sent. No LEDs :( dsoz

Also, don't forget that clownfish = damsel. They may be cute damsels, but they are still damsels and territorial as all get out. dsoz

I have a 75g tank (AGA standard dimentions) and I hate getting the arm of my shirt wet. Whenever I reach in my tank, I get the armpit area wet and don't realize it until I am all done with what I am doing. Also, I don't know if it is good for my tank to have deodorant and stuff dip into the tank from my shirt. I don't think I will ever have a tank that is deeper than my arms can reach. I don't want to go SCUBA diving in my tank just to rearrange anything. dsoz

It is for a "tank" top. Not exactly what I was thinking of, but I guess it works. The game of life... That is funny. dsoz

If you have a chance, in Newport there is great clamming and crabbing as well. You need a shellfish permit, but it is worth it when you bring home a bucket of fresh clams... yum. I thought that the Seattle aquarium was better than the OCA, but then I have been to the OCA so many times maybe the wonder has worn off. I have only been to the Seattle aquarium once so it was all new to me at the time. dsoz

Also read this. http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-09/eb/index.php potassium permanganate is an effective killer of nudibranchs. I have a 10 lb container of it that is used to remove iron from water. To make a dipping solution you only need 50 micrograms per liter. It takes a high precision scale in order to measure out that little. So 10 lbs will last an eternity. I have even measured out some individual doses for use. I had monti-eating nudis, and zoa-eating nudis and used the permanganate to get rid of them. It is hard on some corals, but zoas are usually hardier than montipora. If you are interested in getting some potassium permanganate, just send me a PM. I work in Woodburn and can probably meet you there after work some day. dsoz

I have made a large amount of concrete rocks (at least several hundred lbs.). It takes about a year of curing to get it so they don't leach alkalinity into the water. Fresh concrete can change the pH of salt water up into the 12 range. That is lethal to most life. :( Once algae and other stuff starts to grow on the rock, the base color becomes irrelevant. So adding color is probably not needed. I agree that adding salt to the mix before setting creates a more porous and less dense rock structure. It sounds like if you do the fiberglass/resin it would be your best bet. dsoz

Looks like a brown version of a fuzzy mushroom... dsoz

I got rid of two tiger cowrie snails that I had because I caught one eating corals. I don't remember if they were zoas or not... dsoz

IMO, if I buy a frag that is 1" and let it grow so that it is 2", then frag it so that there are two 1" pieces. The one that I sell would be "captive bred" and anything that I have after the original 1" piece would also be captive bred. But that original 1" would still be wild caught. If a store imports wild coral, then frags it up for sale, then each of the frags would be wild caught, but any growth would be captive grown... Since most of my coral is from trades with other hobbyists, I would say that most of my coral is "captive grown" dsoz