danlu_gt

50gal cube, 60gal total volume with SPS and LPS. It's packed, wish I have more room for more SPS. Haha

Sounds interesting.. Can you give us the exact dimensions needed for this reactor? My setup is small and currently using Kalkwasser as ATO to provide CA and ALK.

Thanks for feedback... New chip will have 4500k, hopefully that will help with non fluorescent colors. 300w is max these LED are rated without over driving them. Over driving and under cooling will lead to led degrading and lost of photo emissions ability. I am able to dim each channel to achieve lower intensity. You have a good point that individual LED maybe more efficient, up to 30% if pay premium for them. However, wiring 50 to 100 individual LEDs would be a nightmare plus will take up so much space.

Current setup pic with lights mostly off:

Any feedback welcome.

I thought I share my new project.. I decided to redo my DIY LED lighting. I have my current setup about 1 year now. Current setup: 100W Royal Blue 450nm, 100W 10000K White, 30W UV 390nm, and 10W Red 630nm. Each color comes with it's on chip that's roughly 1" sq. I placed a 60-70deg lens so I can have them 2ft above the water light and no have much spilled lighting to the room. During peak intensity, Blue 450nm is at 100%, 10000K white is at 50%, UV 390 is at 60%, and Red 630nm is at 30%. The main concerns I have with current setup are: 1. Pink/red sps (that do not florescent red with blue light) tend to lose their pink/red color over time. All my SPS have growth, some faster than others. 2. Missing 420nm which is peak photosynthesis efficiency according the Dana Riddle's coral photosynthesis research. 3. SPS self shading because the light is coming from concentrated location, and if the sps are not placed in ideal angle then I see the "dark side" with front tank view. 4. Missing non-photosynthesis spectrum. The original idea was to save as much electricity as possible and use only light spectrum that provide photosynthesis benefits. This may lead to perceived color issue. Without full spectrum light, color that do not florescent when sps pigments are activated by actinic blue lighting do not appear correctly. Example, red object (nonflorescent) will appear black or dark blue under blue only light. New setup: Since I don't run the white light at 100% intensity, I decide to reduce the number of white LEDs and try different colors LED. I will use 2 150W LED chips. Each chip with have 5 channels but I will solder similar colors together to reduce 10 channels to 4 channels. This way I don't have to do much re-wiring. Also, each chip with have multiple colors so I can place them 5"-6" apart to reduce harsh shadows. I will try to mimic the intensity to my current setup as much as possible for co-existing spectrum. First 150W LED chip: ch1 10x 4500K white (30W) ch2 10x 450nm Royal Blue (30W) ch3 10x 420nm Violet (30W) ch4 5x 660nm Red + 5x 490nm Cyan (30W) ch5 10x 395nm UV (30W) Second 150W LED chip: ch1 10x 450nm Royal Blue (30W) ch2 5x 660nm Red, 5x 490nm Cyan (30W) ch3 10x 6500K white (30W) ch4 5x 420nm Violet + 5x 470nm Blue (30W) ch5 10x 450nm Royal Blue (30W) It'll take 2-3 weeks to received those 2 150W LED chips. I'll let you guys know if the new 420nm, 470nm, and 490nm make much initial visual difference and SPS coloration long term.

Just found this thread... Some amazing tanks! Maybe someone can organize tanks tour soon. Would love to check out all the tanks and setups.

Anyone notice some sps will grow fast but only from certain branches/spots? I would assume every single polyp have same growth potential on the same colony assuming good water flow and evenly lit. Got some sort of purple stag.. It only grows new branches from only 2 spots while the other branches don't seem to grow. Also have a green slimer which had a branch already cut off when I got it. It seems to regrow from that cut spot very fast. I had to move it to a different location and yet only to spot grows fast. Last week I drop something and broke off the fast growing branch. It had already heal up and start growing fast from same spot. However, some sps like bird's nest just grow everywhere evenly. I just find these kind of growth patterns intriguing.

I'll take all the chromis if still available.

Thanks Jeff, leopard wrasse is one of my favorite fish!

When I first got mine, also from Jeff, it would only eat 1mm size pellets. I tried frozen small shrimps, fish eggs, but wasn't untill I put pellets that it started eating. Now, it eats like a pig, eats everything...frozen shrimps, fish eggs, pellets, and flake food.

Mine goto sleep around 5:30-6:30p. Lights start to dim at 7p.

I need to trim this ~4" Grape Montipora. Will cut a few roughly 1"x2" frags, asking for $15/frag. I'm in Hillsboro.

I'm in Hillsboro, OR.

Has to frag more of my Green Bird's Nest. It grows way too fast and started shaded some of the slower growing sps.

Bird's of Paradise: Brown Monti Digitata Pink Bird's Nest Green Bird's Nest

Interesting article about setting up Berghia culture: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2008/11/breeder I was hoping someone local might have already done this.

20 Berghia Nudibranch or peppermint shrimps?

I will try the powerhead trick first. The foot is well hidden and not reachable at the moment.

Any tips on getting this anemone off the rock?

My RBTA splitted into 2 months ago, and now one started to move around. It's stinging my corals so I need to find it a new home. Asking for $60. I paid $80 when it was a quarter the size.

Just called them.. No filefish.

I'm in Hillsboro near Glenco highschool.

Purple bird's nest with greenish skin. I'll like to sell this entire colony pictured below for $25 obo. I'm hoping I can pop it off the rock easily but it have grown a lot since I glued it. I'm trying to clear some space so I can move more frags off the sand. I already have a duplicate colony so would like to sell this one. Oh, it's about 3"x3"x3". I'm in Hillsboro.

Anyone has a filefish they're selling or want to find a home for it? Looking for a filefish. Thanks...