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RODI thoughts and question


Ian Atkins

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Hey y'all, I recently setup a 4stage RODI and have learned a lot about my water now. Its a BRS 75GPD Unit, that started out with just carbon blocks no membrane or di stage, and that's what I've been doing since the start of this year. And now I added and RO membrane and DI stage. Come to find out that after flushing the RO membrane the TDS comes out 0 going into the DI stage. So I'm thinking why do I even need a DI stage? Can I just fix the tubing to where it's running 2 carbon blocks before the membrane and just use that? 

 

Just wanted to see what more people have to say, and post pics of your RODI!  I have mine mounted under a sink now, so pics are before I mounted it 

 

The specs on my unit

5 micron sediment

BRS universal carbon blocks 1micron 

Dow 75gpd membrane 

Mixed Cation/Anion DI 

TDS meters, pressure gauge, flush valves for carbon and membrane, Auto shut off switch+float valve (EVERYONE SHOULD HAVE THAT)

 

 

 

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Assuming the DI stage has color-changing indicator resin, and you already own it and it's installed....  Then use it and observe.  If the DI get's depleted - my assumption is there's something else in your water that Carbon and a membrane aren't catching.    

I must be in a lucky location.  My incoming TDS is regularly low, and often my DI expired indicator doesn't trigger for a year.   For calibration, I use no less than 5gallons a day, mostly on evaporation top off.

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KISS is what I was taught in regard to water. 

That being said, it depends on the quality of your source water and intention.  Request your local water quality record for your zone but be wary because things change. Also your mileage with this may vary depending on your actual piping. 

Some people run 3 - 4 because it fits the budget and tackles majority of what they would typically see. 5+ would be for efficiency (water waste, easy recharging media) and to pull specifics.

Getting into resins is it's own world but you would need your mixed DI (color change) to catch whatever your other filters do not. I'd only focus on water if it has been narrowed down as a problem. 

 

In SoCal I ran a 3 stage unit. Moved to Portland and had to upgrade to a 5 stage unit based on water reports (Silicates, hardness, chloramine, TDS etc)

Ran into issues with making certain microalgae and the need to minimize waste water led to me setting up a 7 stage system. My location has me burn through anion a bit faster so I will probably add another stage to prolong maintenance. 

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3 hours ago, goldenbasketreef said:

My tap water has 22-25 tds so I just use caralytic carbon and mixed bed DI resin to bring down to 0 tds with no waste water.

This is how my new water flow from the filter, it is about 3-5gpm.

 

 

 

My incoming water in SE averages around 28 tds. I use a similar system to Rudy. It’s been great and I do like the zero water waste. I do notice the Anion burns through a lot more. I have a chlorine tester but haven’t gotten around to using it. 
 

For those using RO around here have you adjusted your rejection ratio if you have low incoming TDS?

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4 hours ago, LavenderTi said:

My incoming water in SE averages around 28 tds. I use a similar system to Rudy. It’s been great and I do like the zero water waste. I do notice the Anion burns through a lot more. I have a chlorine tester but haven’t gotten around to using it. 
 

For those using RO around here have you adjusted your rejection ratio if you have low incoming TDS?

That was also part of my motivation for buying a new RO unit.  I bought a unit with a 1:1 rejection rate.  Cost a few more $, but then I'm not a Rudy level user.

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12 hours ago, obrien.david.j said:

Assuming the DI stage has color-changing indicator resin, and you already own it and it's installed....  Then use it and observe.  If the DI get's depleted - my assumption is there's something else in your water that Carbon and a membrane aren't catching.    

I must be in a lucky location.  My incoming TDS is regularly low, and often my DI expired indicator doesn't trigger for a year.   For calibration, I use no less than 5gallons a day, mostly on evaporation top off.

Yes I forgot to mention that, it is color changing resin, so I'll keep an eye on that. I'm only making about 20 gallons a week for top off and water changes. Thanks! 

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12 hours ago, Eatfrenchfries said:

KISS is what I was taught in regard to water. 

That being said, it depends on the quality of your source water and intention.  Request your local water quality record for your zone but be wary because things change. Also your mileage with this may vary depending on your actual piping. 

Some people run 3 - 4 because it fits the budget and tackles majority of what they would typically see. 5+ would be for efficiency (water waste, easy recharging media) and to pull specifics.

Getting into resins is it's own world but you would need your mixed DI (color change) to catch whatever your other filters do not. I'd only focus on water if it has been narrowed down as a problem. 

 

In SoCal I ran a 3 stage unit. Moved to Portland and had to upgrade to a 5 stage unit based on water reports (Silicates, hardness, chloramine, TDS etc)

Ran into issues with making certain microalgae and the need to minimize waste water led to me setting up a 7 stage system. My location has me burn through anion a bit faster so I will probably add another stage to prolong maintenance. 

Yeah I probably should get a report from my local water source, I've also thought about doing a couple freshwater ICP test. One on the tap water, and the other from the RODI. Thanks! 

 

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11 hours ago, goldenbasketreef said:

My tap water has 22-25 tds so I just use caralytic carbon and mixed bed DI resin to bring down to 0 tds with no waste water.

This is how my new water flow from the filter, it is about 3-5gpm.

 

 

 

I was using a sediment filter, and 2 carbon blocks for a long time, I just think something was off with my water so I got the RODI to make sure it's not my water 

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RO and DI filters work with minimum flow/pressure rating (gpm), the filter unit always stated as how much it produce as gpd.

We thought that reducing the flow / pressure would make the water spend more time in the filter and will filter better. It is actually the reverse happened, less filtration or improper filtration flow when minimum flow or pressure not follow. In the case of DI, IME resin will be exhausted faster with less quality (higher tds) water when minimum flow requirement is not flowing through the chambers.

Ready RODI unit has been set to proper minimum flow/pressure rating usually stated in the manual, sometimes if minimum pressure / flow is not met a booster pump is needed so the unit can have proper range of flow/pressure.

The only reason I go with no waste water is the cost of water. I used to have close to 12K gallons of saltwater systems, having waste water to feed this systems for new water mix will cost a lot in the water bill alone. Now I only have about 1000 gallons systems and go through 200gal a week. Certainly the cost with waste water is not much now but I like to fill 44gal brute container in about 10 minutes so I still go with no RO just for my convenience.

RODI is the best water quality you will ever get for reef tank, this should be the top priority on any filter you choose.

 

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12 hours ago, Ian Atkins said:

Yeah I probably should get a report from my local water source, I've also thought about doing a couple freshwater ICP test. One on the tap water, and the other from the RODI. Thanks! 

What perfect timing.  I subscribe to Tualatin Valley Water District reports, which come out once a year.   Guess what mail showed up yesterday!   Attaching the report to this thread.

 
8127673a-2333-4d36-971b-69469373694f.jpg
TVWD's 2023 Water Quality Report is available at tvwd.org/wqreport. This annual publication summarizes the findings from thousands water samples taken in 2022. Thank you for enrolling to receive water quality updates by email.

Join us virtually on July 12 at noon to learn more
Joel Cary, Water Resources Division Manager will host an online Talkin' Water episode to further explain the water quality report and how we know your water is safe. A link to the forum and a YouTube video after the presentation can be found at tvwd.org/talkinwater.

Future Water Supply Changes
In 2026, TVWD will transition away from purchasing water from the Portland Water Bureau. The Willamette Water Supply System will provide high quality drinking water from a resilient system. Learn more about the system and local construction impacts at ourreliablewater.org.

water_quality_report_2022_data.pdf

 

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21 hours ago, goldenbasketreef said:

RO and DI filters work with minimum flow/pressure rating (gpm), the filter unit always stated as how much it produce as gpd.

We thought that reducing the flow / pressure would make the water spend more time in the filter and will filter better. It is actually the reverse happened, less filtration or improper filtration flow when minimum flow or pressure not follow. In the case of DI, IME resin will be exhausted faster with less quality (higher tds) water when minimum flow requirement is not flowing through the chambers.

Ready RODI unit has been set to proper minimum flow/pressure rating usually stated in the manual, sometimes if minimum pressure / flow is not met a booster pump is needed so the unit can have proper range of flow/pressure.

The only reason I go with no waste water is the cost of water. I used to have close to 12K gallons of saltwater systems, having waste water to feed this systems for new water mix will cost a lot in the water bill alone. Now I only have about 1000 gallons systems and go through 200gal a week. Certainly the cost with waste water is not much now but I like to fill 44gal brute container in about 10 minutes so I still go with no RO just for my convenience.

RODI is the best water quality you will ever get for reef tank, this should be the top priority on any filter you choose.

 

Ok I can see how thats a lot better in the long run. 44 gallons in 10 minutes!! That's awesome, How often are you replacing DI resins? 

Thanks for the info, I'm gonna keep it how it is, since I'm not trying to make tons of water.  

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19 hours ago, obrien.david.j said:

What perfect timing.  I subscribe to Tualatin Valley Water District reports, which come out once a year.   Guess what mail showed up yesterday!   Attaching the report to this thread.

 
8127673a-2333-4d36-971b-69469373694f.jpg
TVWD's 2023 Water Quality Report is available at tvwd.org/wqreport. This annual publication summarizes the findings from thousands water samples taken in 2022. Thank you for enrolling to receive water quality updates by email.

Join us virtually on July 12 at noon to learn more
Joel Cary, Water Resources Division Manager will host an online Talkin' Water episode to further explain the water quality report and how we know your water is safe. A link to the forum and a YouTube video after the presentation can be found at tvwd.org/talkinwater.

Future Water Supply Changes
In 2026, TVWD will transition away from purchasing water from the Portland Water Bureau. The Willamette Water Supply System will provide high quality drinking water from a resilient system. Learn more about the system and local construction impacts at ourreliablewater.org.

water_quality_report_2022_data.pdf 1.51 MB · 6 downloads

 

Thank you for this!! That helps 

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2 hours ago, Ian Atkins said:

Ok I can see how thats a lot better in the long run. 44 gallons in 10 minutes!! That's awesome, How often are you replacing DI resins? 

Thanks for the info, I'm gonna keep it how it is, since I'm not trying to make tons of water.  

I have 2X 1 cu ft media / 50"x9" media cylinder. Last me 2 years before it gets to 1-2tds.

In general di filter capacity in pppm divide by tds will give you approximate gallon capacity. A good quality 5lbs di media has a capacity of about 14000ppm

A good prefilter before DI will make di last longer. Prefilter being carbon/catalytic carbon/sediment/ro

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