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Not enough room for Durso drain


Ninjabeaver

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You might be able to use a chop saw to shorten the T if you are close to getting it to fit.  Don't hold it with your fingers though, put a piece of pipe in it to hold it, then cut the T off short.  Then use a street 90 add a little teflon if necessary to make it tight.  Hope you can pull it off!

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There is no reason to torture yourself. If you can make due with an extra 2 inches of overflow water draining into your sump on power down:

 

I like to run a full siphon straight drain. You can set the siphon drain a couple inches below the surface of the water. For tuning, a gate valve works great, but, if you can tweak in small increments and have some sanity left, a ball valve can work. I set my water level to seep at the full open backup drain.

 

It's completely silent. You can hear the RW-8's humming

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There is no reason to torture yourself. If you can make due with an extra 2 inches of overflow water draining into your sump on power down:

 

I like to run a full siphon straight drain. You can set the siphon drain a couple inches below the surface of the water. For tuning, a gate valve works great, but, if you can tweak in small increments and have some sanity left, a ball valve can work. I set my water level to seep at the full open backup drain.

 

It's completely silent. You can hear the RW-8's humming

 

This is what I do. Easy peesy.

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I can see the full siphon as a straight drain for sure, how deep you need it depends on flow so it doesn't suck air.  If you can, experiment before making anything permanent.

 

For the durso, that definitely seems more challenging to keep it quiet without the T.   Or alternatively, at least a 90 + street 90.  On that config you can drill a hole in the top of the 90s and stuff an airline tubing just barely into it for the air intake.

 

Good discussion!

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If you have a 1 and a 1.5, use the 1" for siphon.  As for how far down you want the straight pipe siphon, usually 1/2-1" below the surface of the water to the top of the drain screen.  The backup should only have a seep of water going down it. 6 months down the road, if you hear water going down the backup, clean the screen on the primary drain.

 

As TheClark said, you can always dry fit everything and give it a run!

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If you have a 1 and a 1.5, use the 1" for siphon. As for how far down you want the straight pipe siphon, usually 1/2-1" below the surface of the water to the top of the drain screen. The backup should only have a seep of water going down it. 6 months down the road, if you hear water going down the backup, clean the screen on the primary drain.

 

As TheClark said, you can always dry fit everything and give it a run!

Looking closer and taking apart the 1.5...it has a reducer to 1" fitted inside the bulkhead..so its not a true 1.5".
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Also forgot to ask if stainless steel clamps will rust?

 

Definitely don't use stainless steel clamps, pick up some plastic snap clamps. 

 

http://www.hcl-clamping.com/Herbie-Clip-Plastic-Nylon-Hose-Clamp-Double-Grip-P1

 

I use a single gurgle buster on my tank and it's dead silent and takes little to no room.

 

http://home.everestkc.net/jrobertson57268/HGB/HGB_construction.html

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