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High Phosphates....


Frank

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I finally got my Hanna Phosphate tester and was a little surprised when the reading was .44 < little high..>(scary). The problem is last time I ran GFO on the tank it didn't seem to like it. But I have to get the phosphates down... and I just wasn't sure how to without pissing the tank off. (scratch)

I have the tank set up with the out water changing (3) gallons a day but that was just as high so that did not help. So after talking with Alex and a little brainstorming...we came up with this.. Since I'm doing the auto water changing I'm running GFO on the new make up water... it is down to .02 so as I change out water it will slowly lower the Phosphate in the tank so all should be good.....yeah! (clap)Feels good to have this figured out. Maybe not the most conventional way to fix the issue...but hey...it works right?(rock2)

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Frank...did you test multiple times? The first time I used my Hanna meter, it tested high as well. It's very important that the glass vial (Cuvette) is spotless. It is also important that the reagent in complete dissolved. When I am testing, I use a micorfiber towel to clean the glass vial every time I have to touch it with my hands, then I only handle the vial by the cap through the rest of the test. I also start a stop watch as soon as the Hanna Meter says C.1. you have exactly 90 seconds from that point to poor and dissolve the reagent. I hope that makes sense.

 

Being that you are using MB7/Biofuel, I have a hard time believing you actually have .44 of phosphates. I use MB7/vodka, and have zero phosphates.

 

Hopefully these tips help with your testing, and you actually have much lower phosphates.

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Yea I did it a couple times and go the same each time... I know with the GFO on the make up water if Im getting some in the tank the new wate will get rid of it... Will try aging.. didnt know about the 90 sec.... Do you use the same glass or do you fill one with the test and the other with the reagent?

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Use the same glass. The device will stay on for 180 seconds.

I was able to do the zeroing (c1) and fill the reagent in about a minute. Then you have about 120 seconds to dissolve it.

Keep in mind that there is an error tolerance of 0.04 if I remember correctly

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wait... are you saying that your new water change water has a bunch of phosphate in it? Have you tested your RO/DI output? there should not be very much phosphate in your newly made up saltwater unless your RO/DI is exhausted

 

I too have a hard time believing that your phosphate is that high, how are you disolving your reagent (shaking or gently swirling) I find if I shake the vial I get alot of micro bubbles that affect the reading. I gently rock the vial back and forth until it dissolves.

 

Before you do anything I would get someone else to verify your results with their meter.

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wait... are you saying that your new water change water has a bunch of phosphate in it? Have you tested your RO/DI output? there should not be very much phosphate in your newly made up saltwater unless your RO/DI is exhausted

 

I too have a hard time believing that your phosphate is that high, how are you disolving your reagent (shaking or gently swirling) I find if I shake the vial I get alot of micro bubbles that affect the reading. I gently rock the vial back and forth until it dissolves.

 

Before you do anything I would get someone else to verify your results with their meter.

 

I'm also curious about this, what kind of salt are you using that has such high PO4?

 

Also were you able to find a deal on the tester? I've been wanting to pick one of those up...

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The Hanna checkers are cute little instruments and they work pretty well.

Their reagents are just garbage.

If you want to have good results with the phosphates test use D-D or Elos or Tunze reagents with it. They are the same thing.

Put into the cuvette 10 drops of liquid and one test spoon of powder and you will have perfect results.

With the d-d reagents and the hanna checker you will have the perfect instrument for the $$$

 

Again, the silica cell is good, the reagent is garbage: you can just put oxy clean and it will be the same lol

Note also that the hanna checkers don't "like" fresh water a lot: false positive are possible.

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Just got some infos from my friend Alessandro (same name).

Rowa, Elos, DD, Tunze reagents are the same product: rebranded macherey-nagel.

The one you can find easier and cheaper will work better that the magic powder that comes with the hanna kit

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Ok here are the instructions:

Elos test kit po4 high resolution (the new one).

Use 10 drops elos liquid reagent in 20ml of water + 0.4ml elos powder (using the elos spoon).

In the Hanna cuvette you can fill only 10ml, so you throw away half of it.

Unless you use 10ml of water + 5 drops of liquid reagent + 0.2ml of powder (but the Elos spoon is 0.4 in one side and 0.15 in the other, so better to do with the 0.4 and throw away half of the solution, unless you find a way to measure 0.20ml of powder reagent)

 

With this you will have consistent results. I have to try with my phosphorus meter and see. It should be the same.

Hope this helps

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wait... are you saying that your new water change water has a bunch of phosphate in it? Have you tested your RO/DI output? there should not be very much phosphate in your newly made up saltwater unless your RO/DI is exhausted

 

Was thinking this too!

 

Unless your tub is leaching it into the water.

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I tested the DI water and it was at .02. Then I tested tested the make up water and it was high using the new kent salt. Put the GFO on the make up water and it is down to 0. Might get a new barrel need to know where to get one? I have done the test ;ots of times and have the same readings. Trust me a was shocked on the reading. About the GFO on the tank Grassi explaind to me why the tank didnt like the GFO. As strange as this sounds the new way seems to work....

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So what does the new Kent Salt read for PO4 once you mix up a batch?

 

Geez cant wait to make the switch to the new brand, glad I have 4 buckets-(nutty)

 

I use Kent and I tested at 0 with the same device. I mean the same, Frank is using what was my colorimeter, same batch of reagent.

With the Phosphorus low range I test the new saltwater at 0.03, but I think it is a problem of reagent. In the process of finding a better one.

I clean the barrel once a month

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I tested the DI water and it was at .02. Then I tested tested the make up water and it was high using the new kent salt. Put the GFO on the make up water and it is down to 0. Might get a new barrel need to know where to get one? I have done the test ;ots of times and have the same readings. Trust me a was shocked on the reading. About the GFO on the tank Grassi explaind to me why the tank didnt like the GFO. As strange as this sounds the new way seems to work....

 

So before you do anything drastic get a confirmation with someone else phosphate meter. You are welcome to bring a water sample, both tank and new makeup water over to my house and I can confirm with my low range hanna meter if you want.

 

Running GFO on newly made saltwater kinda sounds ridiculous because newly made seawater should not have very many phosphates in it... If it was me and the makeup water was confirmed to have that high of phosphate I would dump it ASAP, after all if phosphate somehow is being leached into the new water, what else is?

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So before you do anything drastic get a confirmation with someone else phosphate meter. You are welcome to bring a water sample, both tank and new makeup water over to my house and I can confirm with my low range hanna meter if you want.

 

Running GFO on newly made saltwater kinda sounds ridiculous because newly made seawater should not have very many phosphates in it... If it was me and the makeup water was confirmed to have that high of phosphate I would dump it ASAP, after all if phosphate somehow is being leached into the new water, what else is?

 

Which low range Hanna do you use?

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