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ooooohhhh boy i have problems with my sps


jgf86123

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well, ive been looking at my tank today, wandering why nothing really looked its best, so i gave it a closer look, and bam, my temp had soared to 88 degrees, apparently having 2 working heaters is a BAD thing with my halides, looks like im going to have to start turning my heaters off before i turn my lights on, so that my tank doesnt overheat anymore. but, enough of that, the bad thing thats happened is my ORA stylo is melting away, my birdnest aint looking too hot and my devils hand leather aint lookin so hot itself.

 

is there anything i can do to fix these? or should i just let em go on their own? see if they'll heal themselves? i plan on stopping by a LFS at some point on sunday on either my way to bitrickers or my way home from bitrickers and hopefully pick up a small thing of salt so i can do a water change, i ran out this past weekend lol.

 

well, any advice/suggestions would be greatly appreciated, thanks

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Oh...no....well I too have a heater and run MH but I don't plug in my heater unless I find I need to...well....that is a lie....it's plugged in right now. I but I keep my temp a tad higher than most others here....probably all others here to be honest. If I were you I would try and find a temp home, if possible, for those corals until you get issues resolved....

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ive got the problem resolved, the temp is going down, i needed to top off anyway, so i just used ice cold water, and the temp is now slowly going back down, its at 84 currently and still on its way down, so im good there, for now.

 

my question is is there anything else i can do to help em out? my oregon tort is fine, my green sinularia is kinda laying over, but its polyps are out, but, my favia is slowly, over the last couple of weeks, receding, is there anything that can be done about that? i never see its feeders out anymore, havent in like 2 weeks now, maybe longer. and the only other coral thats showing problems is my tubs zoas, but, i think that was zoa pox, cause my [language filter] stars have been on them like, well, you get the idea lol. but, i still have 4 polyps of them, and for the first time in a couple weeks my stars are leaving them alone, so i think they're ok too. im just really worried about my ORA stylo and my favia, those are the 2 that are really lookin bad, the favia not so much, its just receding, but the stylo has lost about a 1/3rd of its polyps in just 1 day, along with about the same amount of its skin.

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Just let it come back down slowly, the shock of a quick temp drop will only worsen things. How did the heaters get so high, lights or not they can be set and uasually aren't that far off??

Time for a controller, add up how much you may lose and they seem pretty cheap

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the heaters were both set at 79, but i put on a 100w last night to go with my current 150w and took off my 75w, i had been having some minor problems with my temp dropping at night, i solved that, but, since the temp was stable all night at 79, when the halides were turned on this morning, well, slowly the temp went up and up, it usually stabilizes, before the heater swap, about 81 or so by 9 at night, my halides come on at 2-3 in the afternoon and go off around midnight, things are already looking better since the temp came down, its at 82 now, is a 6 point drop in temp in 2 hours too much?

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the heaters were both set at 79' date=' but i put on a 100w last night to go with my current 150w and took off my 75w, i had been having some minor problems with my temp dropping at night, i solved that, but, since the temp was stable all night at 79, when the halides were turned on this morning, well, slowly the temp went up and up, it usually stabilizes, before the heater swap, about 81 or so by 9 at night, my halides come on at 2-3 in the afternoon and go off around midnight, things are already looking better since the temp came down, its at 82 now, is a 6 point drop in temp in 2 hours too much?[/quote']

 

I guess wait and see, should be fine mine did the opposite when the probe for my chiller came out of the tank in the hood with the MH on, cooled down to about 72. Again time for a controller, I saw a JR with a dc8 for $150 well worth it

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I have my heater on one of those light timer devices, halides on, heater off....visa versa.

 

The heater has 12 hours to overheat the tank and with it in the sump and nearly 200 gallons to heat up, Im keeping my fingers crossed it never happens.

 

Its amazing how much money we keep intrusted to electrical devices that really dont have a great record of reliability unless the price tag matches and even then.......its still an electrical device.

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A controller is great for temp issues.

Mine is keeping the temp within a half a degree of the set temperature, turning the heater/fan on and off as needed.

 

For a while I thought I'd have to use a chiller, but a cheap fan turned on when needed, really did the trick, even during the summer.

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  • 1 month later...

as a cheap alternative you can get a Marina (Hagen) digital thermometer with built in alarm that you set to go off when the tank gets too warm or cool. Downside... they are cheap. I have two and they are 2 degrees apart! So have to be calibrated against something more reliable. Still better than nothing, if you are not ready to buy a controller.

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