Jump to content

Floor strength?


siskiou

Recommended Posts

Everyone with larger tanks:

 

How did you figure out if your floor was strong enough to support your tank?

Set it up and hope for the best?

Reinforce the floor? If yes, how?

 

Did anyone actually encounter a floor that was too weak?

 

Our house was built in the 50s. Did they use stronger materials then in the US or cut corners whereever they could? ;)

 

-Susanne

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Normally older the better, my house is 1960 and I have a 155 gallon, 150 gallon total after removing inner mass of rock and adding refugium. times gallons by 10 to be safe, and you got about 1500 pounds spread 6 feet, there is absolutley no problems, I dont think you would have a problem with the 120 personally. water weight is about 7.5 pounds per gallon. Worst case get a few lifts from Ahbrit that hes selling, but I think for your tank thats way overkill.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I contacted a stuctural engineer before setting up my 240. My house was built in 65' and they used 2x10's 16" o.c. The tank was to be set against an exterior wall so that helped, but I still needed to double up my joists for additonal support. Of course mine was over a finished basement and I could not just put jacks underneath.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everyone with larger tanks:

 

How did you figure out if your floor was strong enough to support your tank?

Set it up and hope for the best?

Reinforce the floor? If yes, how?

 

Did anyone actually encounter a floor that was too weak?

 

Our house was built in the 50s. Did they use stronger materials then in the US or cut corners whereever they could? ;)

 

-Susanne

 

Need more info. Is the tank parallel or perpendicular to the joists? How far apart are the joists? Size of joists? You want to set the tank evenly over the joists. I have heard that some people set their stands on 3/4 inch plywood to even out the weight, but I am not sure if that helps much. I decided to put my 240 gallon in the garage because of the weight.

 

240 X 8.6 = 2064 lbs

live rock = 370 lbs

tank/stand = 200 lbs

 

about 2600 lbs. That's more than a ton of weight so I thought that the concrete floor was the safest option. Most homes should be able to handle the weight of a 120, but do some research before you set it up. Tell us about the joists.

 

Jay

Link to comment
Share on other sites

it's quite the risk too take

at least reinforce

Here's the plan Keith... Just have Roy, along with me & Bob stand in the general area of where the tank will be, and if it holds, no worries. If it dosen't, you and Roy can do a patch job and reinforce the floor. rofl
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, hm, you don't know my husband or the low crawlspace under our house, evidently! ;)

The poor plumber who had to crawl under there when we remodeled a few years ago was never the same again!

 

I'll have to take a flashlight and check under the house, but am pretty confident the joist would be perpendicular.

 

Our current 40G with 20G sump, sitting in the same spot the other tank will go, has had no problems for the 6 months it's been there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not a bad idea. When I did my 300 gallon on the second floor I was somewhat worried. But got to doing some measuring and it ended up being right over a wall right below. (Actually a small closet so ahve 4 walls.)

 

I dunno if I'd want to put a large tank in the middle of a floor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Does anyone know of a reasonably priced contractor or handyman in the Eugene area who would install a support brace for the aquarium?

My husband tried going into the crawl space today, but he isn't as skinny as he used to be...

 

It's a very low crawlspace under a 55 year old house and the access hole is not very large.

Nothing as nice as the one in the picture above!

 

I called a few guys, but the job is too small for many (not worth even coming out for an estimate), or they are too large to want to attempt it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yep, but we need to find someone to get under there.

 

I took a look under the house with a flashlight to find out how far apart the floor joists are and which way they run, and as far as I can tell we don't have *any* floor joists! ;)

 

It's a mess under there, but even checking under the insulation as far as I could reach, there are only flat boards (the edge of those along the house is laying on 4x4s). Cant' see anything that looks like joists sticking out anywhere.

It's a pier and beam foundation, and I'm starting to wonder how they did the floor in the late 40s, early 50s around here.

 

I thought the joists would be quite obvious, but apparently not in our house.

 

I think the inside wall I'm planning on having the 90 (or 120) sitting at is the middle support beam of the pier and beam foundation, so at least that's good.

 

Setting up a tank sure gets me into all sorts of reseach I was never interested in before! :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But its always good to learn new things, typically the joist will be there (one type or another) and the problem is the insulation will be in between them so you won't see much if anything, my house was built in 1960 and thats how it is, new houses are the same, not sure about yours. I have crawled under 1000's of houses (literally) and all look about the same. There should be a main support in that area and getting a jack to help as a backup support is probably the easiest solution, if you are having someone make a brace it MUST be engineered so it will work properly or there is no guarantee its actually offsetting/distributing the weight when its needed. A jack on the other hand is a no brainer, you just have to make sure you jack the main support and if you get water under there in the winter, well thats a whole nother topic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The insulation is not between joists, just tacked onto those boards I mentioned.

It wasn't a common practice to "hide" the joists by putting boards one the bottom of them, right?

 

With the jacks, wouldn't you still need a board on the ground underneath, and one across the joists?

 

And I am certain we do get water under there, and we have that horrible clay soil that swells and then dries. Great for foundations in general!

 

Our current tanks (a 20H saltwater, a 40G saltwater, a 29G freshwater) have not caused any trouble, but we've had to shim to get them to be straight and true.

 

I'll keep you updated on the mystery of the missing floor joists!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...