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John Vinson

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John Vinson last won the day on August 28

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Sailfin Tang

Sailfin Tang (3/15)

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  1. I'll take the wrasse....can pick up today if it works for you....also, I'd be interested in some of you Hanna checkers (depending on which ones you have)...thx
  2. Did you run the line from the DI filter straight to that float kit? Also, it looks like you drilled through the bucket, did you seal it with anything after attaching it? Thanks again for the help!
  3. I hadn't thought of the float valve...definitely need to go with that....any recommendations? A quick look on amazon and I found this: https://www.amazon.com/Reverse-Osmosis-System-Connect-Fittings(ball/dp/B076HDV3Z2/ref=sr_1_21?crid=28AJKROUIH6QL&dchild=1&keywords=float+valve+for+water+tank&qid=1633141625&sprefix=float+valve%2Caps%2C242&sr=8-21 It looks like it'd do the trick....
  4. I picked up a small (50 gal/day) 4 stage RODI system and wanted to make sure there's nothing I need to do with the filtered water (besides adding salt) before adding to the tank. Thanks!
  5. Rudy has such an incredible selection, it was hard to finally decide what to go home with. In the end, we picked up some zoas, favia, disco soma, alveopora and he threw in a piece of Jack O Lantern Leptoseris! Looking forward to another visit for sure
  6. I must be using the black bucket....I'm colorblind, so it's all the same to me If I do start dosing and switch salts, any recommendations on the salt to switch to? Instant Ocean Sea Salt?
  7. This is exactly what I was thinking I need to do. How would you recommend the salt switch happen? Maybe start out doing a mix of 2.5 cups each of the two types of salts to begin with for a few weeks, then switch to the new salt entirely - or does it need to be even more subtle, like 1 cup new, 4 cups old first and do that for a few weeks, then 2 new, 3 old, followed by 4 new, 1 old, etc? Or is that even necessary, can the switch be as abrupt as the next water change (provided I'm testing constantly and ready to dose, should the levels drop too quickly?)
  8. Thanks for the feedback and the link, it was an interesting read and looks to be the type of guide I'm looking for. From what I can tell, I'd like to see about doing something similar to what he does (especially if I can just add the stuff to my ATO and have it dose that way). He doses limewater, as well as calcium and magnesium (and mentions dosing the limewater into his ATO, but doesn't say if he adds the calcium and magnesium that way as well). He's still doing small water changes (1% daily) and adds some salt, but if I can reduce the amount/frequency of water changes I wouldn't have a problem with that either!
  9. Wondering if I should start daily does for alkalinity, calcium and magnesium. I have a RSM250 and do a 10 gal water change once a week with the Red Sea coral pro salt (blue bucket = KH of 12). I don't have a sump, calcium reactor or anything like that.....just the protein skimmer and the foam, bio filter, UV sterilizer and charcoal. After the water change, alkalinity is around 10, but it drops about a point over the course of the week. I have a mixed reef with some SPSs (mostly Monti caps) and think they would benefit from some daily KH doses to keep it more stable over the week. However, I would need to adjust how much salt I added to the water change, otherwise the alkalinity would just keep rising to 12+, correct? I am able to maintain the salinity right at 1.026 by adding 2.5 cups of salt for every 5 gallons of water in the water change (pH stays right around 8.2 as well). I believe I want to keep my alkalinity somewhere between 9-10, so does that mean I need to switch the salt I use? If you're dosing, do you switch to a salt that doesn't have the other trace elements (so you only add salt to maintain the desired salinity, and the calcium, alkalinity and magnesium are added by your daily doses?). I don't test calcium and magnesium as often as the alkalinity (I have a Hanna for that, and I'm lazy, which is why I do it more often than the others...heh). Calcium is usually around 440-480, and my Magnesium test kit must have been bad (salifert...never got it to change colors), but I did take some water into the LFS and they came up with 1410 for magnesium. As I understand it, if I start dosing alkalinity, I'll need to do the same for calcium (as one goes up the other goes down, or something like that, correct?) I'm not sure how that affects magnesium or if it even matters, as every LFS I've talked to says it's all about maintaining a stable alkalinity level. For now, I would plan on manually dosing, and depending on how that goes and my travel schedule, I might consider upgrading to some sort of automated system (Apex?). Looking forward to getting your thoughts on this...thanks in advance!
  10. I think it might be actually.....I had a small galaxia frag a few months ago, but it didn't look like this one. Looking at some other pics of galaxia online though, I think that's what it might be....thanks!
  11. It looks like a mini torch, but it has a thick base, so I'm pretty sure it isn't. Anyone know for sure what it is?
  12. Thanks for the reply...I did just that and the GSP seem to be opening up again...still waiting for the others though. Thanks again
  13. Two days ago I was trying to setup a auto-fish feeder and it dumped way too much food (pellets). The next day there was a white cloud in the tank and the GSP, kenya tree, Pipe Organs and toadstools all closed up tight. Yesterday I did a 10 gal water change (RSM 250) and did some testing with the following results: - Nitrate = 0 - Nitrite = 0.25 - Ammonia = 0.25 - Phosphate = 0.25 - Alkalinity = 9.6 - Salinity = 1.026 The white cloud has since cleared up, but those 4 corals have stayed closed (the zoas, hammers, acan, mushrooms, blasto, kaleidoscope polyps, and ricordea all seem to be unaffected). Was this just a bacteria bloom that has to run its course, or is there something else I should do or be worried about? TIA for your help!
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