timfountain

Agreed, if you have the space and time to dial them in, they are a great addition. I'd also say knowing where to get CO2 at a reasonable cost and distance is also going to factor into your decision. When I had my 210 I was very lucky that I had a fire extinguisher company literally in the next street over and I could get a refill for $5 a time.

Love mine also, in my Red Sea 350 (92G) with a 2" bed. He has done a great job of just keeping the sand bed turned over and clear of any hint of algae.

I never have to touch mine, once I dialed it in, and it runs near silent, just the occasional (like once a hour) trickle down the overflow. I was worried how the adjuster would work, I read a number of people who were driven to despair trying to adjust it, but so far I've been very happy. The only thing I would say is it is super sensitive, like even one click on the adjuster can sometimes be too much....

So theoretically, how much would one have to pay for such a beautiful specimen, if it's not a rude question?

I just realized the Hydor has a trip at the 10 minute mark, i.e if the output if on for 10 minutes and the water hasn't covered the maximum level sensor, it will shut down permanently! That's a nice feature.. The Hydor drives a 12V DC 2A wall-wart type power supply which energizes the solenoid.

Just so we are clear, there is no pump in the system, the Solenoid is plumbed directly to the RODI output via 1/4" tubing... Failure of the solenoid (sticking open) or the Hydor would allow unrestricted flow of RODI water into the sump. I'm trying to figure out if I should invest in a secondary solenoid on a completely independent level controller. Or something else entirely!

I have the output of my RODI system connected directly to a 1/4" wet solenoid that is controlled by a Hydor smart level controller located in the sump of my Red Sea 350 (25G sump). The Hydor includes an alarm for low and high level conditions. So far the system has been working great and SG is spot on but I can't help thinking there are multiple points of failure, including the solenoid failing (it is normally closed when not energized so that is at least a good point). and the Hydor level controller. My current thinking is a second solenoid, again normally closed, that is controlled by a second float switch, such that it would cut-off the water supply if the level got too high, independent of the Hydor. This requires the solenoid to be energized 100% of the time and they are prone to failure when on all the time. I'm also considering a digital input to the Apex Aquacontroller with a separate float switch that would email me if that second high-high float switch was tripped. Only problem I found when prototyping this is that I get high-high alarms whenever I enter a feeding cycle as the sump fills. I could fix this in the logic of the APEX to only email me if the float is tripped and there is not feed cycle. Since I have a potentially unlimited supply of fresh water to continue to pump into the sump in the case of a failure, I really need this to be foolproof and any ideas on improvements in this ware would be welcome. Thanks - Tim

Water changes, GFO and a good skimmer and you will beat the algae.

I have a 65G acrylic that I used when setting up my new tank. Looking for $30 or so. It was a tank that was converted into a sump. - Tim

Anyone have a controller they are looking to sell. Basic is fine. Just want to control heating/cooling, pumps, lighting, CO2. Ph and ORP reading would be nice. Seems like my old Aquacontroller III has gone on the fritz, it will no longer control heat, even though the temp measurement is correct and I can manually turn the heater channel on and off.

You've got PM on the tank.

Ok, so starting the new build and I want to locate the sump remotely (in the garage). I'm looking for a 50+ gallon sump, ideally acrylic, professionally built with baffles, ATO (at least the ability to accept ATO), fuge area, skimmer area and in good condition.If you have accessories like a good external pump (1000GPH+ as it will have to drive a little more distance than a usual under stand pump), media reactors, skimmer etc. that is all added points! Please LMK what you have. also in the market for an all glass drilled main tank in the 50-80 gallon range. Not looking for projects, black stands, homebuilt stands or other spousally questionable builds (don't take it personally, it's the other half that makes the aesthetic determination....)

Can you PM me pics please?

Ok, What I am looking for. Name your price and I'll see if we can agree! - Tim

Is this the intermediate or professional LED (intermediate is 25W, pro is 75W)? Another way to tell is the intermediate has 4 moon LED's, the pro has 2. Im interested if it is a pro.... Thanks - Tim

Sent you a PM. I have a 40 fresh that I could use these on. Thanks - Tim