Burningbaal

very fun...perchers are always entertaining!

I'm a little undecided with gfci. I think I'm going to seal around one circuit's wiring/outlet to make it water proof (for the heaters/return)and make the other two gfci?

super-awesome, thanks for the advice. 12-2 wire (if copper) will carry 20 amps (according to my sources) and it's only $75 for 250ft, so I'm ok with that. I'm breaking them up into multiple circuits as much for emergency as anything else. if something causes one circuit to pop, it's unlikely to be on the one with just the return pump and heaters...that way I keep them running well. The lights and skimmer are 2nd most important (I think?) so they will also get their own, for the same reason. we're having an electrician swap out or (very outdated and not-to-code) breaker panel anyways, so cost of the circuit is negligable, and the wire is cheap enough. does that sound like a good priority list? return/heater as most important, lighting/skimmer as 2nd? also, It's a 90 gallon now...hoping a mod can change the title. not that it changes your point about the low elec reqs though

question bump: circuitry question for the new setup: planning on 3x 20amp circuits. one will run just the heaters and return pump (skimmer?) one will run the lighting (432 watt T5 fixture), skimmer, and...? one will run everything else (powerheads, etc) does that sound good? is the amperage ok? I'm running the wires tonight or at least by the weekend and would REALLY like the advice.

man...that's pretty weird

Try diluting tank water with ro/di. I'm not sure what the chemistry of the test kit is, but I doubt salt makes a difference. Try diluting it 50-50 to get in a 'normal' range. I'd test just the ro/di first to make sure it's Ca free. If your 50-50 shows over 350, test a fresh batch of salt water to make sure it's not a bad batch of salt. If virgin saltwater is OK, it must be something in the tank

for the record...I'm getting in on the 'next one'

truly stunning

update, but no pics We decided to put built-in cabinets in the living room and the new tank will go there instead of the current location (in the kitchen). we already cut and sanded all the pieces, then prime paint and assemble groups together. then we'll iron out the electrical, then put the units in the living then I get to move the tank! question on electrical: I'm thinking two 20amp circuits, one for return pump, heater and?? 2nd circuit for everything else. sound ok?

I guess I can use an aqualifter with an ATO switch... good point. I looked a little at the potential return pumps I may someday use (have a mag7 now, but want room for a replacement). I'm thinking a 6" section would work fine, I think that will be my plan. the skimmer I'm planning on upgrading to will be a recirc skimmer (avast marine CS-1), so skimmer depth doesn't matter. My seaclone will probably sit on a stand (egg crate or something) until the upgrade. sound ok?

So very cool, even without cleaned glass that full tank shot is so impressive! Everything is so very impressive...(drooler)

ok, I've got a drawing of my plan for the 55g sump. I want all the advice I can get...I want it done right. fuge will be lit with 2x 24watt CFLs (6500K) [ATTACH=CONFIG]12334[/ATTACH] oh, and water level should be about 16" and plan to have an ato...but need to get one that I don't have to drill to use..

FTS! please?

I like Jeremy's hawk...pretty cool looking But I also like my goby/shrimp, bummer that can't work for you...

Hey 253, I am planning on a bean animal overflow that's very similar to the setup you have. Thanks for the input on the sump selection!

I'm planning on using the glass lids that came with the tank, and will hang my light from rope ratchets and be hoodless ...should I not be worries about the heat?

k... hopin for someone with experience on the heat issue. that's my main hesitation for using the tempered 55 is that I was going to have the pump external on the acrylic tank to cut back on heat. I can't have it external to the 55 because I can't drill the glass (tempered). I'll be running an 8-bulb T5 fixture (48") a few powerheads, the skimmer and the return (mag 7). should I use the acrylic sump to get the mag 7 as an external or use the 55 for more sump-space? That's the main debate, would really appreciate advice

Mid-game bump...any advice? Tempered 55 or acrylic 25 for the sump?

yes one of the guys here hooked me up with a tek light that had been sold as a hydroponic light. but it's Tek, jjust that it had 6500K bulbs, so I got Danik's old actinics and I'm up and running now, just need to hang it - it even came with rope ratchets!)

so, much delayed, but a little update: first: still hoping a mod can change the title to "upgrade to 90...finally", cause my tank is a 90 gallon. now: I picked up an old 90 up in salem for a good price (thanks, Scott!), apparently it used to be Garret's (TPA) personal tank so it's got some history on this forum. it's got three holes with bulkheads on the back. was set up as two drains and one return. I'm going to install a C2C internal box and have all three be used as a bean animal system. one of the three is larger than the other two...which of the bean animal system should be larger? I'm thinking that I won't use the siphon full-open so the larger one should be the durso, but not sure. we're also redoing the kitchen with oak cabinets that we're rebuilding as my parents are pulling them out for their own kitchen remodel. so I'll have a 54x21x36" stand (lxwxh). of course the cabinet can't support the tank so I'll be basically using its skin and putting a 2x4 structure inside the cabinet. It will have a granite tile 'counter' surface under the tank...any objections to that? lastly: I'm debating using my current 55 as the sump instead of using an acrylic 25g plus 30g rubbbermaid (for a cryptic fuge), but the 55 is all panels tempered (dumb, I know)...any suggestions? I am only planning on the skimmer for equipment but want to have an algae scrubber and as much rock as possible. I was going to have an algae scrubber and chaeto in most of the sump, rock in the rubbermaid and have the skimmer and return plumbed externally (with a very small drain and very small return section-with ATO)...how do I do it in a 55 best?

Got an 8bulb fixture today, it's wildly bright and will barely fit over the future 90. Came with all 5600k bulbs, so I'll work on changing those over eventually. Thinking about doing the 90 as Rimless since this light came with rope ratchets to hang...think 1/2 glass for that?

I appreciate the input, Josh. As a backup I can do an internal c2c. It would be simpler and take care of most of what I'm looking for. Losing a 3x3 inside would be tolerable and I can have 3 holes in the back of the box for drains. I may still run a second emergency drain... Internal would make it easier to paint the back too.

sounds good. what about having an internal 3"x1" box with 4-5 holes to an external box? that way I can maintain the structure (and rim) of the 90gallon glass tank, minimize volume loss in the DT and get a weir? I'm thinking 1"=1.5" holes between the boxes, covered in egg crate to minimize critter movement, then a bean animal in the back as follows: full siphon 4" from one corner, allowing water to flow in at a very low point (maybe no pipe above the bulkhead?) non-siphon 4" from the opposite corner, primarily pulling water at a very low point (as siphon), but with airline to just above high-water mark two emergency-drains, 1' apart in the center with the entrance to the pipes being just above the high-water mark (probably one slightly above the other). hoping that the weir will be about 1/2 or 5/8" under the top of the tank and the top of the holes (to ext box) are 1" or 1.5" below the weir (the bottom of the box will be ~3.5" below the top of the tank, ~1" from front-back). the external box will be 6" tall (top of box = top of tank), high-water level will be set to about 1.5" below top of tank, with emergency drains at 0.5" and 1" below the top of the tank. Maybe I'll make some drawings both boxes (two-pieces internal, 4 pieces external) made from 1/4" glass.