Jump to content

Burningbaal

Members
  • Posts

    1,580
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6

Everything posted by Burningbaal

  1. Got an 8bulb fixture today, it's wildly bright and will barely fit over the future 90. Came with all 5600k bulbs, so I'll work on changing those over eventually. Thinking about doing the 90 as Rimless since this light came with rope ratchets to hang...think 1/2 glass for that?
  2. I appreciate the input, Josh. As a backup I can do an internal c2c. It would be simpler and take care of most of what I'm looking for. Losing a 3x3 inside would be tolerable and I can have 3 holes in the back of the box for drains. I may still run a second emergency drain... Internal would make it easier to paint the back too.
  3. sounds good. what about having an internal 3"x1" box with 4-5 holes to an external box? that way I can maintain the structure (and rim) of the 90gallon glass tank, minimize volume loss in the DT and get a weir? I'm thinking 1"=1.5" holes between the boxes, covered in egg crate to minimize critter movement, then a bean animal in the back as follows: full siphon 4" from one corner, allowing water to flow in at a very low point (maybe no pipe above the bulkhead?) non-siphon 4" from the opposite corner, primarily pulling water at a very low point (as siphon), but with airline to just above high-water mark two emergency-drains, 1' apart in the center with the entrance to the pipes being just above the high-water mark (probably one slightly above the other). hoping that the weir will be about 1/2 or 5/8" under the top of the tank and the top of the holes (to ext box) are 1" or 1.5" below the weir (the bottom of the box will be ~3.5" below the top of the tank, ~1" from front-back). the external box will be 6" tall (top of box = top of tank), high-water level will be set to about 1.5" below top of tank, with emergency drains at 0.5" and 1" below the top of the tank. Maybe I'll make some drawings both boxes (two-pieces internal, 4 pieces external) made from 1/4" glass.
  4. is that a snail in the box? good times. is there a reason the box is so tall? why the choice to have dividers around the drains? it seems like that would just create dead space of water that only minimally circulates? and most importantly...does it do what you wanted it to?
  5. Smann, I'm glad to hear it's been done. I may use if for macro, though I think I'd just put sand in the sump (and I've got about 100lbs I'll have in the display which is fairly deep, it's about 4" in my 55). could you post a pic or 3 of the overflow? I'm looking for how it's braced, how the pieces are cut/etc. Primary motivation is to not take up space in the DT, and to offer more plumbing flexibility. I may set up 6 drains, two siphons in the corners, two emergencies near the middle (probably 12" apart) and the last pair in between each siphon and emergency.
  6. I may take you up on that, Garrett Anyone ever do an external weir overflow? I'm considering trying to do one with a 48" weir and setup a bean animal external? basically have the back wall be an inch shorter than the other three and have a 3" x 3" x48" box outside with holes through the bottom?
  7. Anyone have a glass 90 to get rid of?
  8. Allright, I'm considering doing a 4x1.5x2(high) 90g. I may actually build it myseld, I've got a friend that works at a glass shop
  9. If I had more money to burn, I'd take Josh's setup in a heartbeat, but I already have the supplies for my stand so I only need the tank. Realistically, I do need the light, but don't have the cash...
  10. oh, and the stand will be homemade from 2x4s and 2x6s with plywood doors (two 24" doors on the front, one 18" door on each side) each piece will be sealed with urethane individually, then the whole thing sealed after assembly. and the tank is going to be glass, the sump is acrylic
  11. The time is getting near. I have convinced my wife to let me have another 6 inches of the room, so I'll be upgrading to a 75 from my 55 and along with that putting in a sump/fuge/algae scrubber system. I have 50lbs of rock that's been curing in a rubbermaid for about 6 weeks so far, it'll be probably another month before this happens. it's probably 85-90 degrees with a little pump for circulation. Display: Hoping to get a standard 75 drilled with either a cornerflow or on the back (bean animal would be awesome). will do at least two drills, preferably 3. I'll put some rock from the rubbermaid in the 75 on the stand to create a under-sand base for things, then pull the livestock, 15 gallons of tank water and most of the current rock into a 29 I have as a temp home (I'll fill it with new water). Then move the sand bed over (it's only 6 months old, was dry and new when I put it in), and the rest of the tank water. Test NH3, NO3 and PO4 in the 75, do water changes until I'm happy, then move all the stuff from the 29 to the 75. sound ok? under the stand, which is the meat of it all: I have a ~25 gallon sump (thanks Serge!) that will be the heart of the thing. Drains will go into socks (far left). directly from this, I'll drill to plumb my skimmer (external) which will output back to the same section. this goes under-over baffles to the fuge area. This will (at this time) just be chaeto, but may add a sand bed and/or other macro algae later. 'under' baffle and only a short 'over' baffle, probably only 4 inches tall to the return section which will only be about 4 inches wide, drilled for an external return (mag 7) with an ATO. The return will go up to the display and to the rubbermaid tub. the rubbermaid tub will be filled with all the excess rock I can fit, with the lid. I'll cut a hole in the top for the inlet, flex pvc will push water out at the bottom of the tub with a siphon-break hole near the top. side of tub will have two drains cut, one right above the other. the top one will drain into the drain of the sump (far left). The bottom drain from the tub will have a ball valve and connect to an 18" long (probably 12-18" high) algae scrubber. the bottom of the scrubber mat will just hit the height of the ATO so it minimizes splashing. I'm hoping for 200-250gph to the display, which leaves me about 300gph (estimated) through the tub (cryptic fuge?). the algae scrubber will have two 120W (equivalent) CFL bulbs that will also light the chaeto. when I feel like it, I can toss a bag of carbon in the fuge area, or phosphate media (wrapped in floss?). ATO: I'll have a 10gallon tank sit on the rubbermaid with an aqualifter in it. the ato switch will kick on power to the aqualifter, which moves about 0.058 gallons per minute. Goal: achieve minimal nitrates and phosphates, and generally clean water with little (or no) use of medias or reactors. I'm planning LPS/softies and maybe an easy SPS or two (up high). Eventually, I'll be replacing the lighting with 6-bulb T5's for 324 watts. Please do please try to keep your suggestions within the spirit of my goals. For example, I'm not going to do a 200gallon tank, I'm not going to add 6 reactors to the system, I'm not going to do an in-wall...you get the idea. That said, I want all the constructive criticism I can get...that's why I'm on the forum in the first place
  12. Drop it in a bag of dry rice, it helps pull minute moisture out, worth a shot
  13. here's my (small) contribution: the actual ABS (Acrylonitrile-Butadine-Styrene) is perfectly safe However: sometimes the manufacturer imbeds an anti-algae compound in it (which is dumb if you ask me...it's a black pipe). so, if you can get an msds or hazmat for the material and it does not include anything except Acrylonitrile-Butadine-Styrene, it's good to go. Unfortunately I can't find such info specified on the widgetworks link. one more note: FDA food safe is an exceptionally strict requirement that (usually) costs tens of thousands of dollars to get approved for. they will list things as NOT food safe just because it isn't worth it to them to spend the lawyer and lab fees to get the approval. if it's just ABS, it's fine. (FYI: I know about the FDA craziness because of a microbiology Bachelor's and the fact that my company is trying to get FDA approval for a drug currently)
  14. curiousity question: how much rock is in your display (lbs)? it looks like a lot, but a 1200 gallon system demands it. plus 125 pounds in the fuge...I'm gonna have about 75 lbs in my whole system...wild.
  15. nifty! (forum requires 10 characters)
  16. I have heard mixed reviews about bumblebee and nass snails, but it seems like the truth (as I read it) is that they are scavengers eating recently-dead things, not actually killing them. And that is what we want in a cuc. Also, my urchin hides most the time, so I'm not too worried about bumping into it
  17. +1 to garret. He totally rocks. He met me on off hours Sunday afternoon and got me a great deal topping off my cuc. I think he was cheaper than online dealers for most of the snails/hermits. Nothing was even sort of over prices. Also has a great variety including some unique pieces
  18. I love my shortspined urchin...you could add a couple yo your tank!
  19. wow Serge...looks like it'll be amazing! thanks again for that, um...killer deal ((scratch)) on the sump! this should look pretty awesome when it's full of rock and lit up!
  20. So I am not a salt expert but we know that UV kills indescriminently. It kills good bad and neutral. In fact 120 Watts is really strong and would probably kill copepods, rotiders, etc. I probably wouldn't use it, but you cloud install it and not turn it on in case you do want it (maybe if you get an ich break out or something)?
×
×
  • Create New...