Cobalt

check to make sure the prefilters are seated properly as well, chlorine could be destroying the membrane. Also, check the flow restrictor. THe flow restrictor should match the rating of the membrane. I don't think you can go from a 100gpd to a 75gpd membrane without swtiching the flow restrictor.

patrick has some in... $20 a polyp. just bought a florida today

I ordered this replacement membrane when I was trouble shooting my RO unit fearing it was destroyed when my prefilters plugged. But my existing membrane is apparently ok so I have this new one still sealed for sale. If your existing RO unit does not have a 75gpd membrane than you may need to change the flow restrictor on your drain line. Otherwise it should work in all RO units. $30.

a 2.5 or 10lb may work, but depends on size. TIA

I have a float valve and a shutoff valve iif you need one.

found the problem i think. my sediment filter was not seated properly so both carbon blocks plugged quickly. I replaced the filters but it is still not shutting off, so who knows. I replaced the check valve too. Now all I can figure is that the plugged carbon blocks may have allowed chlorine to get to the RO membrane and destroyed it?? I don't know. I guess that is next to replace... sheesh...

i am now thinking the pH may have hit 8.6 or higher and that caused a massive precipitation of my Ca and Alk. Prior it was 400 and 10. Now I'm guessing over the week I have been dosing kalk as topoff it slowly raised the pH to the point of precipitation. Hence the snowstorm. Does than change any thing? as an update, i changed another 5 gallons at lunch and this evening I can see across the tank now. all my SPS appear to be ok, but I have read that they may begin RTNing in the coming days from similar scenerios with others. i bought a siphon and will try to remove settled kalk... running carbon and filter floss nyles, i wasn't clear, my reactor has a built in timer, runs 1 minute every 60 minutes. The 1 hour timer at 4am is for the power to my dosing pump, so all topoff occurs at 4am. This setup worked fine for the last week, so now I am thinking saturated kalk did not enter the tank, rather the pH was raised to the point of precpitation.

thanks for the quick reply. You're right. I guess I added vinegar after the first water change because it made no impact on the visibility of the water whatsover, so visually it seemed to have no effect, and I don't have a pH test kit so I was freaking out... time to wait it out.

My kalk reactor is one week old, hooked up to a timer to run for only one hour a night at 4am and is also wired to a float. I have a 28g nano cube. woke at 6:15 this morning and the tank was so cloudy you couldn't see an inch in. The tank could not have received more than 1/3 of a gallon of (apparently) saturated kalkwasser. Even though it is filled via a dosing pump and is stirred by a magnetic stirrer on the bottom. I have too much kalk in the reactor (first mistake) as the saturation line is about 5/8 to the top. I read the other post from may about kalk reactor staying on and that user dosed baking soda to raise the alk. Will low alk kill inverts? I paniced and changed 30% of the water (luckily I madea batch of saltwater the night prior) and dosed 50mL of distilled vinegar to lower my pH. article about vinegar to lower pH. I do not have a pH test kit, my aquacontroller jr with pH probe arrives wednesday. DOH! I will go home at lunch and perform another 25% water change, I left a powerhead and heater in my bucket that is getting DI water slowly. One confirmed deatch, my tuxedo urchin. I got him as an water quality indicator and unfornately I killed him within a week. (sad) I saw two snails on their backs as well. My flame scallop is opened up and appears alive but stressed. clams have a slime coat and one the slime is white from the kalk... do i need to do anything else besides the lunch hour 25% water change? Do I need to add alkalinity? What parameters should I test? I assume high pH would kill many of denitrifing bacteria, will my tank need to cycle again?

if this is still available and you are in Portland anytime in the near future I will buy it. Likewise if work brings me down to eugene I will Pm you.

i have a 5 stage too, one sediment and two carbon blocks. but do you have the expenive cloramine guzzler carbon blocks? judging by the near 0 interest this threa has received, i'm guessing no one is concerned about cholramines (from their RO water at least)

Portland uses Chloramine in its water supply. I read Chloramine will not destroy an RO membrane but it will work your DI harder as monochorline will pass through the membrane. Does anyone here notice their DI life is less than than 12 months? Does anyone use the more expensive Chloramine reducing carbon block prefilters?

just fyi i think baking soda lowers your pH, but if you bake it in the oven it becomes soda ash and will then raise your pH. Both buffer akalinity. oh yeah, and I think all you really need to dose is Ca, Alk, and Mag as long as you do frequent water changes.

I would be afraid the kalk dough would be blown off the rock as it dissovles and if it hits a nearby invert could cause some major damage. I mixed a saturated kalk solution with DI water and injected into my aptasia (actually pierce the aptasia) with the plastic syrange included in my salifert test kit. They schriveled up, and then I found my peppermint shrimp eating them the next day. The shrimp are fine but that's another instance of killing stuff in your tank. I don't know what joe's juice is but it may be safer. I read that saturated kalk has a pH of 12, and you shouldn't handle it with your bare hands!

what about your budget? 2x 75W is nearly double the price of 1x150W. So in the case my vote is for 1x150W HQI and add PC, VHO or T5 on the ends if you don't think the edges are well lit. Or you can run actinics in them too. Metal halides have high initial cost but you only have to buy 1 $60 bulb every year... But this brings up a good point, with lighting being so important and costly in reefing, I usually choose my tank around my lighting budget. tanks are cheap compared to lights!

I beleive there are a number of factors. a larger drain will allow more air to travel up the drain line at a slower rate, reducing the slurping noise. Also, I think the amount of noise is different if your drain in the sump is above or below water. I think it is quieter above water (forget, been a long time since I did DIY), but you get a little splashing noise, but at least that is in the stand. also you can add a bard to the durso and run the tube to a an area where the air flow will be muffled. for noise reasons alone I have given up on sump systems altogether and went with a nanocube

likewise. which ones spectra? I would consider buying them all if some others committed to buying 6-8. Or vice versa, if either of you pick up the lot I'd buy a couple from you. I'd be in interested in practically all but the tort, the prostrata, and the orange monti. of course I don't want all those, but i'd be fine with any.

Well, my RO unit was working fine until last week and I noticed no pressure at the sink tap. went to the basement and the waste was running full blast. I figured the pressure valve went bad, so I ordered a replacement. It arrived today and I installed it, the waste still flows when I have my output shutoff. So I inspected the check valve, and it appears to be operational, but I don't know for sure (don't have the extra parts to be able to test it). Anyone know where to find the RO unit fitting locally? I don't recall seeing a check valve at Lowes or home depot. Or better yet does anyone have any ideas would be wrong? TIA

here are you located?

SOLD SOLDSOLDSOLDSOLD

sold sold!!!!!!!

whoops! $120?

3 months old, in like new condition and works great. I am selling my chiller so I don't need it. Product page

reduced price for quick sale...

Hey Brandon, weran two other errands after your place last night so when we got home the lights were off. just got back from work today and the pink milli is all hairy and looks good. The tort is sideways so only the polyps facing the light are out. I need to find a better spot for it. But both look good though so we are pleased!