blown65

Most of the RO manufactures say 500 gallons on the pre/post filters, but of course it depends on how bad the water coming in is also. As for your TDS meter, you could always get some Distilled water and it should test 0 on it. Like waves stated, the blue and orange color is your DI, the blue is the used up portion (color indicating)

they always fall off. I gave up on my thermometer one.

Well, Im stuck with Hanna Montana, Raven etc etc since its in our living room and my kids are watching thier shows. Thank god Tellitubbies and that crap is over with.

I have a couple at home. I just got a HD-DVD setup so Im hoping someone comes out with some IMAX stuff for that.

My mag12 has been in use for prob 2 yrs now. I got it as a used pump prior. Always has worked and actually Ive never cleaned it. lol

This is the topoff I use with a solenoid valve connected directly to my ro/di. Works great and never had a single bit of probs with it. http://autotopoff.com/products.html I used the double switch one so I have a safety high level shut off just in case the one fails.

I had XM 10ks SE before and they also looked slightly yellow to me. My EVC 10ks DE were more white, and the EVC 14K DE were super super blue. (even more blue than my 20k DE I have now.)

If ya got the $$ why not. Only live once and may as well enjoy it if ya got it. I know some rather wealthy ppl that do absolutely nothing with thier money and I just dont see the point in that.

Those spa filter screens should work fine Id think also. A spa moves alot of water, more than 2500gph and the suction against those screens is very small. You should have no issues.

We do some big irrigation systems. (Largest Ive worked on is a 100hp pump) Mostly do pump repairs, submirsibles for domestic water, water treatment. Also get into heating and air with our sister company. right now I have a 47 stage 6" sub sitting on the floor for the DofDW that does about 500psi at 50gpm. The mechanical seal was 1500 bucks alone. Too bad it broke on replacement cause the shaft on the pump was so worn out.

Ya, I usually never have to worry bout fitting losses. I have a chart somewhere but didnt feel like diggin all over my office for it.

Youll prob want a screen of some sort, like those strainers. Youll need one large enough so it doesnt hurt the fish getting sucked against it. Maybe someone else knows of a screen that will work, I dont really deal in that stuff much.

If the SS is rated at 2500 your prob not going to get more than that anyways. Also, with dual 1" you wont either. A lower flow higher head pump would prob be better IMO. The dart should work fine though.

Ya, ur fine. I edited my prior post about your locline question.

Just so I follow you completely on the outflow of the SS. Does it have water going on one line at a time, two at a time? etc etc. (Sorry, Im unsure how those work) If its two lines at a time then thats fine. If you look at the curve on that pump, it can do 3600gph at 0' of TDH. Since your pulling directly out of the tank your at 0TDH other than friction loss thru the pipe. 2" in and then your 1 1/2 out would be ideal as long as the SS puts water out to two or more 1" lines. If it only puts water out to 1 line at a time then either you need a bigger SS or you need a smaller pump. Edit: Sorry, bout the locline, the 3/4 will be fine cause again its a very short distance. You will however get pretty good velocity out of it. If the velocity coming out (or force) is too strong for you, then you would need to find some 1" ones.

Pretty much blown65 on all forums except maybe two i think.

TDH is total dynamic head. Thats your 3-4' plus any friction loss. two 1" in and out should work fine, just like 1 1/2". (Youll prob get a slight amount more water with one 1 1/2 though.) I'm not trying to make this difficult really, I just hate seeing ppl buy these big pumps and try and shove water thru a straw. I see it all the time at work with irrigation systems and ppl using garden hoses. Are you pulling out of the sump or directly out of the tank. If its out of the tank you dont need to figure that 3' lift, only friction loss vs if out of the sump, then you need to figure lift from that water level to the top discharge.

I get what your saying. I think you only need 1 1/2, no need for 2". The y or tees is fine. Bigger is always better when it comes to plumbing. (Thats what she said right. LOL) If you want, you can call me at work and I could just answer a heck of alot faster. lol 888-219-2399 and ask for Joe. (its slow today and I'm extra bored. )

Does no good to have 2 1" outputs if you only have 1 1" input.

If you kept your single 1" really really short then youd prob/might be ok. But remember, now you have two outputs that do 15 each, but without seeing the curve on the pump I dont know. You cant run just a short 1 1/2 to the valve? what size are you making the feed for the pump? (suction side) Remember its by distance. I think youd be better off increasing right at the bulkhead to 1 1/2 and then the you could do 1" off your squirt. You just need a coupling with a slip x thread bushing.

Follow this link and look down about half ways. You can fudge the numbers to get a close ID of the pipe and lenght of your run to get your friction loss. http://www.irrigationtutorials.com/sprinkler09.htm

No actually 1 1/2 ID at 40gpm only loss 13' of head per 100'. 13' = 5.62psi. (2.31 is your number to convert from Feet to psi) Just to take your 3" figure fyi at the same 13' of head it will flow 240gpm

here are a few number fyi. .9 ID pipe at 15gpm loses 23' of head per 100'. At 40gpm it will take 150' of head to flow 40gpm thru 100' of pipe. (thats nearly 65psi at the pump) I know we dont run 100' but you still can do the math backwards from there. I believe a 90 is equal to 20' of pipe so you dont wanna go crazy with 90's either. (Ill have to check that, cant remember)

2500gph is 40gpm. You will never get 40gpm thru a 1 inch line. You sorta need to figure in friction loss at a givin flow rate over your distance of hose or tubing. 1" would probably be ok for about 14gpm depending on how much head the pump can do. I have a friction loss chart (I do domestic and commercial pumping systems) but would need more info. Lets put it this way, if you buy a 2500gph pump and put 1" on it your just defeating the whole purpose of buying that pump and not getting your moneys worth out of it. You could of just bought a much smaller pump and acheived the same result.