wanareef

Here's a rough sketch of the stand. Just the framing and with the sides and front added it'll be steady

Portland, North by Jantzen beach What are the dimensions of the tank? This will dictate the size of the hood, unless you will be hanging them from the wall or ceiling.

Looks nice, but will you have enough room in the hood, or will it be free hanging?

A little late, but this one I build a couple of years ago and kept it when I got out of the hobby. The tube is 24" tall and is a 6" acrylic. Flanges are 3/8". I had problems with it sealing at the top, but used a BH with a clean-out cap and a "O" ring in the bottom of the cap, leak fixed. This same cap is where the kalk is loaded into the reactor. Made a wrench from some scrap acrylic, comes in handy. I used 2x PH's both MJ 900's and they are on a timer that comes on for about 6 mins, 3x a day when it was used. This is still usable, just have to get a impellor for one of the 900's. Cost: tube $30, flanges and bottom, $10, PH's $5ea, misc PVC and fittings, about $10

Sent you email. On your lights, I would suggest going to 150w MH's and using the T5's for supplementing actinic. You can choose either SE or DE and make a reflector like this. I would think that you would only need one but I don't know the dimensions of the tank. IMO 96w would not be enough for a 30gal, unless you use a lot of them. Your 30gal is it glass or acrylic? Acrylic would be eaiser to work on but any mods on glass can be done as well. later

You made out like a bandit. Nice looking piece.

YGM DOH! give me a call when you can

I guess I should ask for a little more, then. (naughty) Those dimension are outside, so it'll be closer to 80gals. Any takers???

The dim's are 48l x 18w x 24h

If you are going the garage route, I would wrap the pipe with insulation from the wall to the sump. Use a heater, two would be better, one for a back-up. Just make sure your joints are assembled very good, be clean and methodical (sp) when joining PVC. Better yet, if you can pony up some $$, flex PVC just run one long length if possible from tank to sump and back- no leaks to worry about. You can put the skimmer out in the garage as well, just have to size the return pump to the distance from the sump to the tank and for any elevation changes as well. HTH & GL

I'm in Portland. No pix yet, will get one later n tonight. The plastic frame around the tank is scratched up but for a sump or non display it'll work. It's 3/8" glass.

Have an 80gal all glass tank, minus center brace that can be used for a sump. Got it used and was gonna to make a sump out of it, but never did. Holds water. Need the room. $30

Shannon LMK if you want one of those " acrylic boxes" for taking pix's. Sure I can "whip" one out for ya - trade for something later?? (whistle) Charles

Get ahold of Mike aka/mojoreef and Reedman up at Reef FRontiers - they have a nice data base that Mike put together some time ago.

On the sterilizer, I would put it on the return side - kind of like the final "clean" before the tank. Most use Ebo jaggers as do I - no problems so far and it's been over 10yrs in different tanks.

Dsoz got the last of it, spoken for anyway.

I started off with only 6 nylon wingnut/bolts and no gasket. I had to double the number of bolts and cut a custom gasket to fit, bloody leaks. Just an idea - you can use an "O" ring for a better seal. Just rout a small "ledge" for the "O" ring then put the top on and it's sealed. I'll try and post a pix as that will be eaiser to understand. Another idea, to use 3/8" material for the bottom of the flange, then you can just "tap" threads for thumb screws.

If it were me, I'd go with the WH7's - It'll only light up to 220w but when I got them they were just $28 ea. The wiring is a bit different on the WH as you will have four "power" wires (red) and a return/common (yellow) and the normal black and white for the wall. Each red wire is 55w's. So for a 110w you'll wire up two reds on one end for each of the tubes and the yellow will be on the opposite end. GL on whatever you get - less $ spent means more coral for the tank, heh heh

Not bad looking piece, and it has a 14day garrentee, too. Nope, have not seen it up close and personal.

Copper? Never use the stuff!

I'm in Stumptown.

Not sure about the motar mix. I used regular Portland Cement and crushed oyster shells and used Carbo-Sea sand mix to make the "mold". You will have to soak the pieces for at least 30days, if not more to get the phosphates out of it, with water changes. Check out the GARF site about this and you'll learn some more. hth

Have about 45+ lbs of dead LR for sale @ $1.00/lb and a bag of rubble (my rubble averages 2-3" dia) with some smaller stuff about 15lbs for $10 no pix's yet @ work (I'll have some when I get home) Charles

Well, it's that time. Last year I put in several resverations for some nice coral and my time is here to pick them up. Psammocora sp. Blue April 2006 List $50 Montipora undata Idaho Grape July 2006 List $70 Montipora sp. Blue Polyps September 2006 List $60 Echinophyllia apsera October 2006 List $50 Echinophyllia aspera Red Chalice September 2006 List $80 Echinopora lamellosa Blue Chalice April 2006 List $50 Echinophyllia orpheensis Pink and Blue Chalice June 2006 List $70 Total list of $430 can be discounted to $365 for you. Next day afternoon shipping will run $65. Grand total due is $430.00 . We accept paypal My tank is in no shape to house these and I don't want them to die off, so if anybody wants some or all, you can have the resveration. I am not making nor want any $$ you just take the resveration and purchase. PM me if interested