drock59

I am running 12 LEDs on my frag tank and it has been doing really well for months now. For 120 bucks you could get a bank of 12. I bought them from rapid LED and copied(more or less) the following RC thread. http://www.wired.com/rawfile/2010/09/x-ray-pin-up-girls-are-just-pixels/?pid=169&viewall=true http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1761942

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I thought I would check in and see if people are still giving thumbs up to these skimmers?

You said you didnt want to make waves with two. Im not a betting man, but I think maybe, just maybe, you turned on the blue mode briefly just for giggles, didnt you? (clap)

If the problem continues, give ecotech marine a call or email. I had a problem with my wetside a while back and they took care of me with no hassle at all.

Very small pvc. Not available at HD.

I busted the following piece of my calcium reactor. http://www.marinedepot.com/Replacement_Korallin_C_1502_3002_Inlet_Assembly_with_Bubble_Counter_(Einlauf)_Calcium_Reactor_Replacement_Parts-Korallin-KL3111-FICRRP-vi.html I dont really feel like paying 65 bucks for PVC. Does anyone know of an epoxy or glue that is strong as well as water tight? It appears to be a clean break, so that should help. Another option would be to dose Kalk for a while. Is it ok to put Kalk in your ATO water? Perhaps it would be better to bite the bullet. Any help appreciated.

I was able to find some plastic drip irrigation tubing and fittings, along with some toilet plumbing gaskets to make a water tight seal at the base of the garbage can. With about 30 gallons of water in the bucket, it pushes water just fine though the 1/4" tubing. It will even push water above the outlet about 1.5-2 ft. Ill be testing this out tomorrow on the system.

Yo comprendo.

jack, it is my understanding the the RO fitting and the pvc fittings have different threads. That is the only reason i need the copper fitting. I guess I will go look at a few different places and see what I can come up with.

I was thinking of using a 32g garbage can as an auto top off reserve so that my RO/DI unit does not have to kick on every day. I need to know if the amount of pressure created by 32 gallons of water will be enough to push water through 1/4 tubing, about 15 feet to my reservoir in my fish room. Also, I need to know if copper fittings are ok to use for plain water/auto top off water. I know this is not acceptable for fitting that come into contact with salt water. Thanks in advance.

Cool, Ill order one.

My RO/DI unit has been malfunctioning lately. It will turn on at random times and fail to turn off. I suspect a faulty auto shut off valve, but I am curious if anyone has thoughts on what else it could be, before I replace it.

Watch these. http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=6490348n&tag=api http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=6490378n&tag=api I second the motion. (rock2)

You might want to take a look at this: That looks really nice to me and I would recommend the LED supplements. All info on how to build one can be found here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1761942&page=14 I just finished building a 12 bulb array for my refugium and I am quite happy.

Michael are you rolling with only one heater?

Excellent information, however, I think it would still be a good feature. right now I am pulling 10.4 amps according to the Apex. I assume the volts would be 120. Apparently I am pulling 1248 watts. (scary) Peak power time for the tank too.

The Apex, unfortunately, only tracks amps. I wish it would track each outlet by wattage.

I think I was about right. Each peak in the above graph is when the heaters are on. A quick count gave me between 9-10 hours.

No, I am not sure at all. I was estimating toward the high side. I figure at night they are on a lot and several times through out the day. Especially because I only run my halides for 6 hours.

Interestingly enough, I have been thinking of switching the main lighting to LED's. However, I put the numbers into the spreadsheet and it will only save me a couple bucks a month in electricity because I would run them longer than my halides. Clearly, it would still be cheaper as I would not have to replace the bulbs, but did not realized that the amount electricity I will be saving is zip. Food for thought.

Cool thread. I used my kill-o-watt before but never broke it down by item. This thread inspired me. Also, I noticed that no one else put their heaters into the calculation. I thought I would over estimate that they are on for 12 hours and day. Probably a bit much but I thought I would over shoot, rather than under.

Great suggestions, thank you. I will work on this shortly and report back.

All of my wires are out in the open and the zip tie/velcro thing just doesnt look that clean. I also have an American Dj and my Apex all in one spot. Looking to hide it all, not just manage the wires. Attached a picture of my mess.

I am really tired of my tank looking good and all my wires looking sloppy and I need some ideas for how to cover up or hide all the wiring for my tank. I have most of my wiring in one place but it doesnt look very tidy. Any photos of your power center or ideas on how to cover the wires while still being able to access them are greatly appreciated.

What are you talking about? the conductivity meter or the apex?