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your all right, together. It is not about the best layer of security. it is about multiple layers of security. if you turn off broadcasting, enable WPA2, turn on MAC filtering, and limit the amount of devices you should be as secure as anyone could ever hope to be. It is like having a lock, alarm system, key code, retena scan, and lazer alarms on a building. together they make it impossible (at least highly unlikely) that anyone unauthorized will get in.

definitely molded, take a look at how clean the skins are. that is cool though.

Sorry, can't help, SUPER DUPER FREAKIN allergic to cats... but i second the humane society idea. it is right down the street from woody at seahorse.

I would make sure that you get someone who knows what they are doing to set it up and show you how to add stuff later. you will want WP2K with MAC address filtering to keep it super secure. it is not hard to do but may take a little work in the beginning.

nevermind. taken care of

I am looking for some cheap crab catching gear. please post pics and lemme know what you want for it.

in the end the brand usually doesn't matter. it is the filters inside that are important. most of them are interchangeable.

Drop me a line. I am off evergreen and 185th. maybe a mile or so. I can help you out with RO/DI. PM sent with phone#

I do agree that moderation should be consistent across the board. I hope this can be resolved. happy reefing to all.

call tap plastics. they are out by where waves used to be.

I am on tmobile and i still have my last phone, motorola razr, but i am not sure if the camera works. PM if interested.

I am up for a once a month commitment. I may even be able to do more depending on how things go. most of us are just waiting on someone to tell us when and where.

I have been reading through the threads and i see all kinds of methods and yes it should be that way since we all have different tanks... But the methods we recommend from our tank is not necessarily the best for the HSMC tanks. I figured it would be wise for us to actually get in there and see what they have before we recommend too much. Buuuuutt since we are taking the opportunity i figure i just have to weigh in on the common methods with my own 2 cents (ok maybe $ .03) First, take a look at these two threads: http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f77/some-funny-misconceptions-ive-read-about-dsbs-23293.html http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f77/ways-to-make-dsbs-work-and-why-many-dont-107650.html I was lucky to get a lot of great advice from Spanky (2 doctorate degrees in marine sciences including biosediments) when he was on the forums and along with a lot of reading i have developed my opinions. Dosing chemicals in our tanks is always fun. Calcium, Magnesium, and buffer are IMO the only thing that our tanks need. if you reviewed the test results for the salt mixes we use you will notice that all the trace elements are way higher in the salt mix then in NSW so why do we need to add them? Strotium, Molyebdenum, Iodine, etc... are "heavy metals" and elements that in high enough concentration can poison your livestock. don't risk it if you are not testing for it! The best rule i ever learned is don't put anything in your tank if you are not testing for it. your waterchange should be more than enough for these extra minor elements Bio Balls: I have used them but the method of use will give you different results. Large systems use them usually because they don't use much LR in the systems and the bioballs can provide additional surface area for the ammonia conversion process Wet/Dry systems allow the water to trickle through the bio balls, this method is not as effective as it allows too much o2 into a process that is normally carried out in anoxic conditions Submersion is when the balls are always submerged and allows the best filtration for this method as it provides a lower o2 level and the balls are always wet In general the overall problem with bioballs is the simple issue where they catch detrius and allow it to dissolve and turn into phosphate (YOUR FILTER SOCK DOES THE SAME THING!!). compared to LR they are extremely wastefull of valuable space and substandard when it comes to providing surface area for bacteria to populate. This method had its time but with what we know about LR i would not recommend them for any SW setup. they are much better in pond filtration. Refugium: I know a lot of you use them but... the data is mixed. Here are some thoughts SPS tanks, in the wild you generally don't see seaweed beds near SPS reefs. SPS prefers clean water, very clean water. While there are always exceptions if you use nature as an example you would not have a refugium on your SPS display LPS/Softy tanks, While it is true that you will at times find seaweed in proximity to these corals you will not usually find massive beds for the simple reason that algae usually takes over any real estate that it can and they put off too much nutrients for the coral to thrive Before i begin also keep in mind that seaweed in refugiums will at time go sexual and pollute your tank with nasty white stuff, it also has the same problem as bioballs where it will catch and keep detrius. The argument that seaweed and refugiums remove nutrients is not totally true. it is simply another method of converting nutrients to something else. There have been studies done in nature to see how the nutrient conversion works and they actually found that the seaweed beds actually output more nutriens into the water than they remove. Considering they convert light and nutrients into growth this is not far fetched. As soon as the seaweed begins to grow it also has die off which simply puts the nutrients back in the water. So if you keep a refugium be sure to trim your seaweed on a very regular basis. it may not blow up on you right away, but in the end there are more effective methods. Denitrification and phosphate filters are problematic at best. What they don't tell you can hurt your tank or at least be a simple waste of money: Denitrators are simply a man made method of creating an anoxic region that allows denitrifying bacteria to populate and convert the nitrate in your tank to harmless nitrogen gas. if you want this to be effective you will need to get one that is massive. it is hard to match a sand bed or live rock for its ability to perform this conversion. rember surface area!! Phosphate reactors are a nice thought but come up short in one massive way. the media you use in a reactor is going to be either aluminium oxide or iron oxide, now look at lawn fertalizer and guess what you will see? these two elements are common fertalizers. yes they will remove phosphate to a degree but they fertalize your tank at the same time. yes if you slow the flow through the reactor waaaayyyy down you can reduce the effect of the media in fertalizing your tank but at the same time you would need a ton of reactors to be totally effective in your tank So now you ask why this stuff works? it is usually going to be because your sandbed is absorbing most of the punishment or it is because you have a badass skimmer that is making up for the rest. Then again you may have the magic combination, just be careful, i have had them blow up in my face before. So what do i recommend after all this rambling... To avoid Phosphate building from captured detrius no fliter sock or pad no bioballs or LR in the sump Good flow in the tank to avoid detrius collecting on the rock or sand keep your sand bed thin Get a large overrated skimmer, on the order of 1.5+ times the size of your WHOLE system not just the tank. if you have a 100g tank and 50g sump then get a skimmer that works on AT LEAST 225g (more is better). now set the skimmer intake pump in a position where it will suck in the water straight from your tank drain line to the sump to ensure that you skim as much as possible. if you can afford it get a highly rated UV filter and place it in between the Tank drain line and the skimmer intake, this will unbind the bound Phosphate and allow it to be skimmed. So how does this all help the conversion process and filter your tank? It skips the conversion of the pollutants in the tank and removes all of it from the water column before it has a chance to do anything. your fish and coral don't need this process to live, they just need good low, temp and salinity. Why do you go through the trouble of converting everything when you could simply remove the 1 step at the start? if you read through the threads above it should be clear that the odds of us mimicking the oceans natural filtration is not possible with the space and resources we have to work with. so lets just use the technology at hand and avoid all the extra hassle? This is the "wealth" of my knowledge on the subjects. I am not calling anyone out and if you choose to use anything i don't recommend i won't hassle you, I am all for people doing their thing in this hobby as long as it doesn't hurt our criters. I just want people to really look a both sides of the issue here and maybe you might find the tank easier to take care of if all you have to do is empty a skimer cup. if you have a question please post it or PM me, i'm happy to help. Cheers,

From my experience and research, most cases of RTN are from Phosphate Wicking (Po4 too high) what is your measured Phosphate level?

I still have these two. they are potty trained and well behaved. no biting (maybe a nip from one rarely) they are very affectionate. good pet for someone who can't afford a dog but wants more than a hamster. Here is a shot of them after a bath. they have even color all over and smooth glossy coats, no bad hair day.

Dining table still for sale. asking $175 OBO

Drop me a PM with what camping equip you have. i may also be interested in the turntable.

If you go with a laptop you will not get anywhere near the power for the money and they can overheat with high end applications. I do like toshiba right now if that is the direction you go. As far as a desktop is concerned i think the best option is to build one. Don't waste you money on some pre-built POS. You can do very good on Newegg and stay in your budget IME. I Highly recommend Gigabyte for the motherboard and I am an AMD fanatic. they are priced better and have a higher front end bus speed which means faster processing of your data. you will need to make sure you are getting a seperate video card if you want to have the high speed picture processing, if you go with an on-board video you will have speed problems if your doing a lot of work. If you need some help building the system let me know. i would be happy to help.

i recommend going to Tap Plastics. they are over by Waves and have everything you need.

pm me. i may have what you need

This is an old one but Bump. I still have them and need to get rid of them. let me know if interested.

Bumping down to 400, if you want make an offer. willing to take offers.

Sold, Thanks all

my recommendation would be to take his sponsership down temporarily for review during the proceedings. if he is convicted then leave it down. if aquitted then give it back. that will protect the club in the meantime and IMO supports the innocent until proven guilty argument.

footprint is 4.5 inches