SamatSLS Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I have a tank (120G) with 2 1" drains and 2 3/4" returns for a closed loop. The holes are ALREADY drilled on the bottom of the tank, all in line. drains in the middle, and returns outer. I was planning on running a dart.... (Pulling the trigger today, please let me know if that's not the best idea in your opinion) Couple questions: Suction side on the dart is 2" I believe, Should I bring 2" of pvc up to a 2" T, then reduce to each 1" drain? Is that the best way? Or should I reduce down to the needed 1" closer to the pump? I plan on running a mesh intake between the 2 1" bulkheads inside the tank. How do you install this? Is there links online? I assume you simply zip-tie the mesh around pvc coming out of the elbows, but I'm not positive. I want it to look like Shannon's (Reefhut). Also, where is a good place to buy schedule 80 parts locally? (For the inside of the aquarium, a little pipe and some elbows, don't want to look at white pvc) The push side of the dart is 1.5". Again, should I bring 1.5" up off and T down to 3/4" or what? Thanks! Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 There's going to be a lot of suction on those two 1" drains; two 1" drains combined have a much smaller cross-sectional area than a 2" drain does (around 1/4 the total). I don't know if the constriction would be enough to cavitate the pump or not, but the suction could easily be a problem for nearby livestock -- around 1500 gph per 1" drain depending on head loss. IMO, the Dart is too much pump for the holes you have drilled. The mesh intake is at http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/821/Perforated-Rigid-Tubing-2-PVC. I haven't found a solid local source for schedule-80 plumbing. http://www.savko.com has schedule-80 stuff, plus they have *black* PVC pipe and fittings... which are just too cool for words. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamatSLS Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 I can always dial down the dart on the ouput side... I would consider a Snapper I guess, but don't see them readily available locally. Does anyone know where I can get schedule 80 locally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Harrington Plastics in Tigard. They do not sell to the public though. You'd need to know someone with a business license. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 If you use the 1" B/H's for the feed, adapt to 2" in tank, and get the 2" mesh screen that Andy linked to. You won't need to zip ty it. It fits around 2" pipe perfectly. The pipe ends coming out of the elbows hold it in place. Could you drill 2 more holes for the intake and use the other 4 for outputs. Contact Sequence about getting the Dart with the Baldor motor. Or even the SuperDart. It is better to reduce/adapt right at the bulkheads. P.S. True Union Ball Valves are your new best friend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamatSLS Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Would you agree that the use of a Snapper would allow me to keep the same hole configuration? I think that pump would be a lot more appropriate for this aquarium. It's not going to be an SPS tank. Simply LPS/Softies. Thank you for the input guys. True union ball valves are great, I will use them for sure! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefhut Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Harrington Plastics in Tigard sells to the public. They have never asked me for a bizz license and they're real easy to deal with too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 I don't know where I came up with that. I remember Reefcam(Jim) mentioning that to me a few years back. Dang, I need to head out there sometime. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 Would you agree that the use of a Snapper would allow me to keep the same hole configuration? I think that pump would be a lot more appropriate for this aquarium. It's not going to be an SPS tank. Simply LPS/Softies. Thank you for the input guys. True union ball valves are great, I will use them for sure! The snapper should be fine. I know an easy way to make the existing holes bigger if you're interested though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamatSLS Posted June 18, 2008 Author Share Posted June 18, 2008 Just called Joel at Waves, they have a Snapper in stock. 5 actually, so I'm gonna get one. I think the snapper would be cool on this tank, as I said it's a basic reef for a beginner, (friend of mine who tasked me with setting up his tank) BTW, this tank is a 120 built by Envision with external overflow and all the usual Envision perks, Beautiful quarter sewn oak stand and canopy with front and side doors, Nice big sock sump with dialed in skimmer water level area, ATB skimmer with eheim 1250 meshwheel, PM Kalk stirrer, ReefKeeper 2 controller, eheim 1260 return, 2 4' ready fit kits with UVL lamps, 250W radiums/galaxy/lumenmax 2's, chiller, Waves Marine's sweet new auto top off, and this closed loop.... This is my friends 1st tank. I wish I knew someone to set me up like this in the beginning! Imagine all the headaches I would of avoided! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 yeah, but think how much you've learned from all that pain Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mister crabs Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 didnt know waves had thier own ATO.......anyone gotta pic or more info of this item? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 That's a great setup for sure. Is the Tank the one that Bob was selling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewie Posted June 18, 2008 Share Posted June 18, 2008 To make holes bigger: Put the tank on it's top and install the bulkhead. Use a reducing bushing for a new pilot hole and drill through the bulkhead nut. If you're using Hayward bulkheads they're plenty thick, but I doubt it would even touch the nut going from 1" to 2". I went from 1" to 1.5" and it only cut off about 1/4" off the sides of the nut. It is still usable. I think dual 1" feeds will be OK for the snapper, just make sure to adapt to bigger elbows and mesh on the inside of the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAVES Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Ya Sammy I would drill the intake holes bigger, so you can use 2 x 1.5" bulkheads. THis way you can use the nice flat intake screens and you have less suction power. Both Darts and Snappers are flow rated not pressure rated, so you need to use the biggest possible plumbing to get the flow they are rated for. I would use a Dart, and I would run 2x1.5 and join them into 2" to feed the pump. The feed side is the most important to maximize flow. (Ive had MANY talks with the owner of Reeflo) TO increase the size I simply drill a hole in a piece of wood, then clamp, tape, hold, or whatever this board over the existing hole. THe hole saw will just follow the existing hole in the wood and keep it from wondering. I have Snappers, Darts, Dart Golds (Baldor motor, 5-10% more flow, more pressure, and less energy, with a 5 year warrantee, fully rebuildable) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WAVES Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 didnt know waves had thier own ATO.......anyone gotta pic or more info of this item? I just started making them. I had 30 of the acrylic pieces made, Ive got enough float switches to make 6 total right now. Basically there is an acrylic "clamp" that goes on your sump with a couple thumb screws, then there is an adjustable height float switch holder that goes from 3 to about 16" deep into the sump (two sizes available). The difference with mine is they are not donut on a stick style floats with are very likly to get stuck, mine have a 1" float that pivots on the end of it, even a snail could be sitting on the end of it and it wont stay down. Lastly, there are 2 switches in series, so BOTH have to move to turn on your pump/solenoid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Yeah, that's a great design. I'm using the 'donut' style sensors now, but with snail-guards so I'm not in a big hurry to make a change but when I do it'll be for these lever-style sensors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamatSLS Posted June 19, 2008 Author Share Posted June 19, 2008 Ok, here's what I wanna do now, after sleeping on it. BUY THE DART. Drill 2 additional 1.5" holes on the back of the tank for the intake. Use the flat screens. Use the 4 holes that are pre-cut on the bottom of the tank for returns with locline. Good? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy Posted June 19, 2008 Share Posted June 19, 2008 Sounds like a plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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