Leaktesting the cube! HOB overflow question

[siskiou]

I'm finally getting around to setting up the 60G cube. (clap)

Stand and tank and sump are in place and level, and I've started filling with RO water (will probably take forever to fill, but if nothing leaks I'll be ready to mix in salt.

 

I've never used a HOB overflow before.

How do I go about starting the siphon and the return pump to get things going?

Fill the tank and sump to the correct level, start syphon, and then the pump?

 

And what's the best way of doing water changes with a HOB overflow?

[R-3]

Is it acrylic or glass? I wouldnt use one. If its acrylic take 2 seconds and drill a hole. Glass isnt much harder either. Later Ryan

[siskiou]

It's glass and I have no choice. For the time being I will have to use the HOB overflow.

I can't afford the drilling, and can afford replacing the tank if it breaks even less.

[Michael7979]

As for the WC...... I'd just draw water from the sump and replace it, without causing the return pump to draw air. This way the system is always running.

 

If thats not possible it will be a little harder.

[Ronjunior]

To start the overflow tubes, I use a plastic baggie on each end, fill u-tube under water, hold baggies tight on each end and quickly stick into the overflow boxes. Might take a few tries. You could also use a pump and tubing the push water into the tubes in place. I would start by filling both tank and sump to the safe levels you want then you have a good idea to not have a flood. Personally, I do WC by siphoning from my display, the siphon boxes do their job to hold the siphon and the sump tube doesn't lose it either since the water stays higher when I turn off the return. Just make sure to do a moch power outage test. Turn off return and make sure the sump can handle the overflow from the display...no future floods that way, but be ready to power back on quick or take H2O from sump in a hurry. (hard lesson learned )

[Nyles]

or just stick a piece of airline in there and suck the air out...

 

Keep in mind your sump water will be on the floor if the siphon stops, this is the reason they are not recommended, due to air getting in there.

[Ronjunior]

[quote=Nyles;53897}

Keep in mind your sump water will be on the floor if the siphon stops, this is the reason they are not recommended, due to air getting in there.

? I'm not following you there??? I think mine is failsafe now. If the overflow box/line is clogged, I keep the water level in my display low enough to the point it can handle all of the sump water without flooding (yes, might burn out pump from being dry). It's the same if my return pump dies/clogged, the sump level is low enough to handle all the overflow from the display without a flood. Make sense? Now if I had a huge sump w/ higher water levels, it could be a problem...this is why I've tested both types of failures to never flood again short of stupidity....cross my fingers.

[siskiou]

May I ask what the volume of your sump is, and how low the water level in your tank is?

I'm sure it's different for each set-up.

I'll have to do some trials to see if I can set up my system this way. I'd sure have an easier time leaving the house if I knew there won't be any possibility of flooding the living room!

[Ronjunior]

It's a 125 gallon display with water about 1" from the top, but my sump is only 20 gallons kept about 9" deep. I would like to go with a bigger custom acrylic sump but that's a ways off. Don't forget to do a total power failure test as well 'cuz you know that's inevitable. If I had to do it all over again, I would do a bottom hole with built in overflow for ease of use. The only trouble I've had was when I didn't have enough flow going into the tank and air bubbles would fill the u-tubes and break siphon on one about every 2 weeks, no floods though. (I use 2 u-tubes). Once I doubled the size of my return line, it increased the flow much better to the tank and haven't had to redo the siphon yet. Was driving me nuts every few weeks, but it's been 2 months no trouble.

[CCR]

I had a HOB on the 110. I realize you are going to adjust the water level in both sump and tank. Drill bit is about $15 shipped, and maybe you can borrow one. No matter how carefully I was. It was always finding new ways to keep me on my toes, and in water. PS snails are a pain when they get in the tube and algae is just sooooo much fun in the tube. Be sure to put some kind of cover over the return and out of the box drain. Gutter guard.