siskiou Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 We recently bought a kitchen cabinet at Ikea and finally put it together this weekend. It's beautiful, with a nice wood countertop. Problem is, we are supposed to treat it with this special wood oil, approved for surfaces that food gets prepared on, and of course nobody told us this when we were there. The oil only costs $4. something, but they want $21 for shipping and handling. Would anyone in Portland who likes to go to Ikea on occasion buy a can for us and send it at the regular postal rate (I can pay you via paypal)? This is the product: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50070378 Please sent me a pm if you can help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 Looks like it's just simple linseed oil which you should be able to get at a hardwood store or something like Kitchen Kaboodle. Not sure of KK is in Eugene or not - but you should be able to find something locally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Thanks! I'll check at Bed, Bath and Beyond. They have a lot of kitchen stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsoz Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 When I was in high school woodshop (ages ago) and made a cutting board, we just used plain vegetable oil to finish the wood. Maybe not what you want on "expensive" cheep Sweedish furniture, but it may work for what you want. dsoz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 You need to use Mineral oil, do not use veg or cooking oil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 A google search reveals Mineral oil - not mineral spirits. Unscented baby oil is the same thing. You'll need to clean it well with dish soap and water followed with white vinegar (disinfectant) or diluted bleach (1 part bleach 10 parts water) after it dries, rub the mineral oil on and let it sit over night. In the morning wipe off any excess oil and wash with soapy water. You'll need to repeat this process about twice a year - maybe more if you use it a lot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 now you know Im bored. I got on my wood top suppliers website here is what was there. Keep in mind this is for a food prep area. If your not going to prepare foods that contain didease, parasites or any unwanted things, or prepar raw meats or other goods I would leave it alone or add a low gloss lacquer. I have one of these for wine display but no prep is done and its looked good for 10 years. BLOCK CARE INSTRUCTIONS THE AVERAGE PERSON CAN LENGTHEN THE LIFE OF A MEAT BLOCK 5-10 YEARS THROUGH OBSERVING THE FOLLOWING RULES IN ITS CARE. Periodically (once every several weeks, depending upon the use and household conditions), apply an even coat of mineral oil or Boos Mystery Oil to the work surface of your butcher block. Sponge on with a rag! DO NOT allow moisture of any type to stand on the block for long periods of time. Don't let fresh, wet meats lay on the block longer than necessary. Brine, water and blood contain much moisture, which soaks into the wood, causing the block to expand, the wood to soften, and affects the strength, of the glued joints. Use a good steel scraper or spatula several times a day, as necessary, to keep the cutting surface clean and sanitary. Do not use a steel brush on the cutting surface of your block. DO NOT cut fish or fowl on the work surface of your butcher block, unless you have thoroughly followed the instructions in step #1...as the moisture barrier must be intact prior to cutting any type of fish, seafood, or fowl on the work surface of your butcher block. ALWAYS CLEAN THE BLOCK THOROUGHLY AFTER CUTTING FISH OR FOWL ON THE WORK SURFACE. Be sure NEVER to cut continuously in the same place on the top of your block. Distribute your cutting over the entire work surface so that it will wear evenly. DON'T use a razor-edged cleaver. It will chip or splinter the wood and produce soft spots. Your cleaver should have dull sharpened edge for best results. NEVER wash your block with harsh detergents of any type. DON'T wash your butcher's tools on your block. At the conclusion of a day's work preparing meat or food on your butcher block, scraping the block will remove 75% of the moisture. After scraping, immediately dry thoroughly with an absorbent towel. This assures an odorless, clean cutting surface for the next day, and prevents premature quick deterioration of the work surface. Maintain the same bevel on the edge of your block, as it had when you bought it. This prevents splitting or chipping of outside boards. Your block, should be turned over periodically to allow even usage to both work surfaces. Note: Butcher Block cutting boards are not dishwasher compatible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Thanks all! I did a search and also came across the "mineral oil" advice. Sure easier than getting the "special" oil from Ikea under the circumstances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Wow, Nyles! Anyhow, I'll be mostly using this surface for baking (rolling out dough etc.). Not planning on doing meats, fish and such directly on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 If thats the case I would leave it raw, and just throw flour on it and wipe off when your done. The mineral oil just keep other things from being absorbed. If its just dough I would NOT treat with anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted December 3, 2007 Author Share Posted December 3, 2007 Won't it start cracking or warping from the water during clean-up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nyles Posted December 3, 2007 Share Posted December 3, 2007 If you let standing water soak in yes, but a simple wipe down no. Just remember a non treated piece of wood is a SPONGE, you spill cool aid and your hosed. Treat with oil or seal with a lacquer if your doubtful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.