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Total Cost of Ownership - RODI systems


nrc
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Hey folks,

Fairly close to this time last year I purchased this for my 33g tank:  https://www.marinedepot.com/Aquatic_Life_Twist_In_100_GPD_4_Stage_RO_DI_System_RO_DI_System-AquaticLife-AK01371-FIRORD-vi.html

I replaced the sediment canister and carbon canister at the 6 month mark, then replaced all 4 canisters last month.   The replacement costs for a full set of canisters is nearly the cost of the original set (I suppose I should not be surprised).

Question for those more experienced on the forum - did you factor in total cost when selecting your RODI units and if so - what did you end up with?   Once my current canisters are expended I may be shopping for a new unit.

 

Nate

 

 

 

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Yes, I did factor that in.  Been using the small BRS one right from the start.  Full replacement is <$30.  

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-value-plus-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

And here's the replacements:

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-stage-value-replacement-filter-kit.html

6 months seems soon.  Depends on your water source but having a RO/DI unit with an attached TDI meter helps to tell when.  I replace mine ~12 months.  

Oh, and if you're worried that 75gpd isn't enough, I have a ~180g system that I use this for and it's never a problem. 

There's also a cheaper version of that one that doesn't have the TDI meter or water saver but I personally think it's worth the difference.  

 

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You shouldn't base changing filters just on age.  The two factors that really matter are how much sediment is in your water system & house plumbing, and how much RO/DI water you have produced.  Portland-area water supplied from the Bull Run reservoir will be different than Beaverton's water from the Tualatin Water District, and those will both be dramatically different than rural homes with well water.  Your own home's pluming can also make a huge difference (be glad you're not in Flint, MI).  I'm in a newer home (1995) in Beaverton, but I used to live in a 1928 Portland house that had some really corroded pipes.

You should change your sediment filter when you start to see a drop in water pressure leading to the membrane filters.  I'm using the BRS 5-stage 150GPD Plus Water Saver unit, and during the first few months I was producing a lot of water while curing dry rock and cycling my tank.  I didn't count, but estimate I produced about 2,000 gallons within 4 months when I started to see a drop in pressure on my gauge.  Here's what the sediment filter looked like when I changed it after 4 months:

IMG_3366.jpg

Since that time my water production needs have dropped dramatically since I'm just doing routine water changes now.  I'm planning to change my other filters soon which will be around the 6-month mark.

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