ChrisQ Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Just ran out to Lowe's so i have something to work with but, i think i may need some help, don't really want to plumb it 3-4 times and i'm out of time with ALL my critters in the failed frag systems sump :( Lost almost 1/2 my coral so far New tank arrived today! Thanks Charles! AKA "Wanareef" your work and craftsmanship is top notch! I will get some pics up and a list of the current plumbing supplies i have on hand within the hour, thanks in advance guys with what assistance you can offer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The ReefBox Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 What questions do you have? Essentially you need three drains. Looking from the back tige middle is typically the primary the right is the secondary and the left is the emergency drain. You will want a true union valve on the primary and secondary for "tuning" the system. You can use ones purchased at Lowes made by American as well but simple ball valves are too tough to adjust in little increments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheClark Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 One tough part to find will be that pvc gate valve. A ball valve works for the full siphon but they are sure tough to get dialed in as compared to the gate valve. I use true union/ball valves for that reason but in a perfect world would choose gate valves. Otherwise Lowes seems to have a decent selection of true unions which is sure nice. My local home depot does not. Looking forward to seeing Charles' handiwork pics. Good luck have fun despite the losses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wanareef Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Chris This is what I am currently using on my DT http://www.lowes.com/pd_209669-34146-P200SUE+1+1/2_0__?productId=3351056&Ntt=single+true+union+ball+valve+sch+40&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNtt%3Dsingle%2Btrue%2Bunion%2Bball%2Bvalve%2Bsch%2B40&facetInfo= for the valve and this is what I'm using for the sanitary Tee http://www.midlandhardware.com/152702.html#.VEABo7d0x9A but in 1 1/2" stay with the white sch 40 pvc, you can find it locally @ most hardware stores (Ace) , but not at HD or Lowes Beananimal The True Union Gate valve have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisQ Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 Sorry guys, i broke my mouse and keyboard shortly after my post last night, i'm working on uploading some pics. Good thing i have my receipt for lowes handy, i spent $82.00 last night :( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisQ Posted October 16, 2014 Author Share Posted October 16, 2014 I planned on fully opened valves, and running a DC-12000 return, so i was hoping to avoid the gate valve, thoughts? I also need to drill holes on both sides for returns and don't know what bit i need to buy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheClark Posted October 16, 2014 Share Posted October 16, 2014 Well, if you check out the bean animal article wannareef linked: http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx Part of the success and silence of this system is the full siphon. If you are doing bean animal then definitely you want one of the lines to have a valve on it so you can get the full siphon without any air in the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisQ Posted October 19, 2014 Author Share Posted October 19, 2014 Well, life once again got in the way, i really need to know what bit i will need to drill for a return with 1 1/2 '' drain lines, when i went to lowes i bought the wrong valves and bought 2'' true unions, stress is getting the better of me and im really not wanting to start drilling through a brand new tank so i need to make sure i do it right the first time. I really wanted to be able to say i did it myself, but its starting to look like that's not going to be the case and it seems im losing faith faster then i can come back up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scubasteve Posted October 19, 2014 Share Posted October 19, 2014 I would strongly recommend using gate valvles, not ball valve on your return. You can get sch. 40 valves eitherthreaded or cheap at zorotools.com Just go to plumbing supply... 7.44 for threaded 1" sched. 40 gate valves, only takes 3/5 days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheClark Posted October 20, 2014 Share Posted October 20, 2014 Well, life once again got in the way, i really need to know what bit i will need to drill for a return with 1 1/2 '' drain lines, when i went to lowes i bought the wrong valves and bought 2'' true unions, stress is getting the better of me and im really not wanting to start drilling through a brand new tank so i need to make sure i do it right the first time. I really wanted to be able to say i did it myself, but its starting to look like that's not going to be the case and it seems im losing faith faster then i can come back up. Harbor freight has a hole saw set with many sizes that will drill up to 3/4" thick material for cheap. To go and buy the hole saws individually can cost a fortune. These are cheap but absolutely do the job. As far as hole size, there are tons of good guides out there but if they are no uni seals then the advice is pretty generic. Find a hole saw that is just big enough to let the bulk head pass through the hole. You can hold the hole saw up to the bulk head to find the right size, it should be slightly big enough to let the bulk head into it. If it is a uniseal, then there are very specific and google-able size holes you need to drill. If you have any scrap acyrlic to practice on that will build confidence too. It is tough to learn the first time on a prize tank. Well good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisQ Posted October 20, 2014 Author Share Posted October 20, 2014 Harbor freight has a hole saw set with many sizes that will drill up to 3/4" thick material for cheap. To go and buy the hole saws individually can cost a fortune. These are cheap but absolutely do the job. As far as hole size, there are tons of good guides out there but if they are no uni seals then the advice is pretty generic. Find a hole saw that is just big enough to let the bulk head pass through the hole. You can hold the hole saw up to the bulk head to find the right size, it should be slightly big enough to let the bulk head into it. If it is a uniseal, then there are very specific and google-able size holes you need to drill. If you have any scrap acyrlic to practice on that will build confidence too. It is tough to learn the first time on a prize tank. Well good luck! Thank you, just what i needed to know (drinking) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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