ReefSafari Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 So I am starting the process of setting up another 40 breeder in hopes to eventually have at least one of my 40 breeders be a dedicated Anemone/Clownfish system. I have only ever tried a BTA once, and it didn't go so well, it was an impulse purchase at one of the shops, I don't know if it was WC/imported, but it was a green one, I had it for a few months and it one day slipped under some rocks and started to disintegrate, so I pulled it... I was wondering for those that keep them, and have had success long term with them, are there any key peices of advice you can pass along? The system had been setup for a year, I had a protien skimmer rated for more than twice the size of the tank, and I was using 250w metal halides, the system contained SPS, LPS, Softies, and all where doing pretty well, so I am at a loss as to why it didn't make it... I have heard its best to get one that possibly has split or has been captive propagated, do they tend to be hardier? I have a feeling mine was not captive propagated, but I don't know... I was very bummed about it not making it and so where my Perculas, they loved that GBTA... If there is any key advise anyone wants to share I would love to hear it. I want to be prepaired when I set this up.... I really want this...and so do my clownfish...but this time I think a RBTA... I just want to make sure I do everything right before I get one.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewey McLovit Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 http://www.karensroseanemones.net/ Here's a great place to start! FEED FEED FEED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberlee Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 +1 on the feeding. I've had mine a year and 4 months it has split once and is about to do so again. It has never moved and is only under 4 36 watt T-5's, but man can that thing eat. I give it a varied diet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I agree with feeding. It gives you a chance to see it react to stimulus. If it takes it fast and keeps it, that is a good sign. If it isnt sticky enough to keep it or doesnt react, thats bad. Some need time to adjust thrmselves to lighting and flow and dont appreciate being blasted by clows right away. Also, avoid food that is too big, it can actually rot inside before it completely digests Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr S Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Go with a captive raised rbta. (I have some if you are interested) I have mine under 6 t-5s but I think I am going to switch to 250mh. I do not spot feed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilliroo Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Hope you don't mind if I pile on with another RBTA question. Should we be concerned about an RBTA that keeps moving into the shadows? We switched from T5s to LEDs, but ramped up very gradually. Feeding oyster feast, mysis, and brine shrimp. Anything else we should be doing? Reefsafari, thanks for thread-sharing. Hope you don't mind the intrusion! Thanks, Guillian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hewey McLovit Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Do you have clowns that will actually feed your RBTA. My maroon pair are horrible at it and will actually steal food out of it's mouth. I got to spot feed then hold my hand there until it's engulfed! If i could catch those Maroon clowns i would sell them!! Go with a captive raised rbta. (I have some if you are interested) I have mine under 6 t-5s but I think I am going to switch to 250mh. I do not spot feed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReefSafari Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Hope you don't mind if I pile on with another RBTA question. Should we be concerned about an RBTA that keeps moving into the shadows? We switched from T5s to LEDs, but ramped up very gradually. Feeding oyster feast, mysis, and brine shrimp. Anything else we should be doing? Reefsafari, thanks for thread-sharing. Hope you don't mind the intrusion! Thanks, Guillian Not at all...Great question, I want to learn as much as I can from those who have had great success with them... Ask away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePremiumAquarium Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have kept literally hundreds of BTA from roses to oranges to purples and the standard green or brownish specimens. I rarey feed though I do think that it is benefitial for recently cloned or split nems. I think the most important factors are water quality(though even having some nutrients seems to be more a plus than no nutrients), good lighting and decent flow. I occasionally come across a specimen that just doesn't do well for whatever reason. This can be discouraging for some but keep in mind there are many factors to the collection, stocking, and transit to these critters. A healthy looking anemone(BTA) usually does pretty well for most people assuming all is good in terms of it's requirements. Captive raised specimens are definitely my prefered option though I have had some pretty unique and awesome wild ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelhead77 Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Right now I have 7 RBTA's and 4 GBTA's in my 180. By all measures, they are thriving. One or two have split right around March Madness time for the past 3 years, and I expect them to do it again this year. In fact, many of them currently in people tanks are probably clones of mine as I always trade mine to Garrett when I'm able to remove them. I rarely, if ever, target feed them. I broadcast feed my tank a couple times a week, if I think about it. Of course I feed my fish every day, but rarely do any of my nem's deliberately get fed. Think about them in the wild, they are not hunters, they are opportunistic feeders, gathering whatever they can from the water column. No-one is coming by and sticking a piece of food in their craw. [/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilliroo Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 Those are lovely, Steelhead. I was told that the small ones and recent splits need to be target fed until they get bigger and can photosynthesize more. Is that true? Gillian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberlee Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 They are very nice steel head, as a matter of fact the green 1 I have came form you. He is right though, when I said feed.... I just feed my tank and what do you know, the 1 I have picks the food out of the water and feeds himself. He isn't lacking light so I think he just likes to eat, but I do know that it feeds every day. It is also in the middle of splinting, so it probably needs a little extra. Oh steelhead remember you said you let me know the next time you had a RBTA available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoralCrazy Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 I have multiple types of nems in my tank and I target feed silversides twice a week. My clowns only pay attention to my carpet. Plus I enjoy interacting with the tank. The only nem I dont target feed is my tube anemone because he readily grabs food from the water column when I feed. Plus I don't like to stick my hands in with a bunch of morays. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelhead77 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Those are lovely, Steelhead. I was told that the small ones and recent splits need to be target fed until they get bigger and can photosynthesize more. Is that true? Gillian Thank you. All I can say is that I have never target fed any of my clones, no matter what size, and I must have had at least 18 of them in the past 3 years. Usually one goes behind the rocks and 2 or 3 will appear a few days later. The 7 RBTA's I have now all started from the 1 I got in February 09. I've removed at least 10 or 12. I'm sure others here will disagree but, with the success I've had, I'd say anemones do not need to be actively fed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelhead77 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Oh steelhead remember you said you let me know the next time you had a RBTA available. Actually there is one right now that would be pretty easy to remove. LMK if you're interested. We need to move pretty fast, because he might not be so easy in a few days. Otherwise he's heading to Garrett's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burningbaal Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 steelhead, remind me next time you've got one (after Kimberlee gets hers)...I've spent up my reef money for a while, but once I've got enough for you, I'd love a BTA from a guy so close! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelhead77 Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 No prob. I anticipate some more splits this month if the past 3 March's have been any indication. Shortly after they split and are looking for a good place to call home is the best time to get them out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kimberlee Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 steelhead' date=' remind me next time you've got one (after Kimberlee gets hers)...I've spent up my reef money for a while, but once I've got enough for you, I'd love a BTA from a guy so close![/quote'] You will love one of steelhead's. I've had mine for over a year, it was my first and it is one nice BTA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MVPaquatics Posted March 3, 2012 Share Posted March 3, 2012 Hope you don't mind if I pile on with another RBTA question. Should we be concerned about an RBTA that keeps moving into the shadows? We switched from T5s to LEDs, but ramped up very gradually. Feeding oyster feast, mysis, and brine shrimp. Anything else we should be doing? Reefsafari, thanks for thread-sharing. Hope you don't mind the intrusion! Thanks, Guillian Back to your question, yes it is normal. It will take an adjustment period. Think of yourself as lucky, they are shading thenselves for you. Other corals would just fade and maybe even bleach before rebounding. I love when corals do it themselves! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReefSafari Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Well I finally am going to give BTA's another try, I got two Captive produced clones this weekend from Mr.s and The Premium Aquarium, Its only been less than 48 hours, but they both seem to like where I placed them, they have not really moved at all, and suprisingly where sticking, so I offered a little bit of Mysis which they both eagarly took. I look forward to them getting a little bigger and my Perculas are playing in them...We will see how these do... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steelhead77 Posted March 19, 2012 Share Posted March 19, 2012 As that little baby grows and begins to expand, be prepared to move those nearby corals. They will come up the loser in any confrontation with the 'nem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ReefSafari Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 As that little baby grows and begins to expand' date=' be prepared to move those nearby corals. They will come up the loser in any confrontation with the 'nem.[/quote'] I have been watching them closely, so far they havn't moved yet, when and if they do, any of the corals near by will be moved or given away... I just hope I do well with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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