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Algae identification problem


J-Dog

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Can anyone help me figure out what kind of problem I have? I've had this outbreak for the last few weeks, which I thought was getting better, but now looks worse. I had the same outbreak a few months ago, and it went away on its own. But now it is back and worse than ever. Here are a few pics, I hope they help.....

 

 

It is mostly on the substrate (and a little of the live rock) and it looks like brown hair. This is what it looked like when it first started....

 

IMG_0935.jpg

 

 

Now it looks like this....

 

IMG_1114.jpg

 

 

IMG_1117.jpg

 

 

Please help! I need to figure this out, so I can possibly get rid of it. I wanted to start adding more coral and fish, but I am afraid to due to this problem. Thanks again for any input u can give. (nutty)

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Every time I test my water I have 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates. I only use R/O water and my tank is almost 1 year old, so I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Does anyone know what is causing this problem? If so, how do I stop it from happening in the future?

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Every time I test my water I have 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates. I only use R/O water and my tank is almost 1 year old' date=' so I'm not sure if this is normal or not. Does anyone know what is causing this problem? If so, how do I stop it from happening in the future?[/quote']

 

Diatoms are caused by silicates. Have you added new sand? Some how silica has gotten into your tank and the diatoms will be there until they use up all the silica and then it will die off. You can buy silica removing media that you can use just like carbon and that will hasten the die off.

 

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IIRC Kent "Phosphate Sponge" removes silicates too...does GFO?

 

Gfo removes very small amounts of silica in the marine aquarium. GFO is only an effective silicate remover in freshwater with a ph of about 9.

 

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Right now I am using Seagel and ChemiPure Elite....I'm not sure if they remove silicates or not.

 

Would a plastic float switch be putting silicates into my water?

Seachem's site says seagel removes silicates. And so does chemipure elites site, but all chemipure elite is is carbon and a small amount of gfo mixed together. I would not believe what either company says, chemipure also says you don't need to do waterchanges while using there product.

 

When was the last time you replaced the di resin in your ro/di unit?

 

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Ahhh, ok -- Total Dissolved Solids, a measure of the stuff still in the water after the RODI has done its thing. There's an inexpensive meter available that you can connect to the output of the RODI; some have a second channel you can connect to the input of the RODI so you can see the relative performance of the filters.

 

There are a few shown here: http://www.airwaterice.com/category/10/

 

Ideally, your TDS should be as close to zero as possible -- though I'd be happy with <5

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Right now since you don't have a meter I would call a couple lfs and ask them if they can test the tds of your water. Make sure to bring the sample in clean plastic bag or ziplock. I would replace the filters if you get a reading over 1 tds.

 

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OK, I can do that.....But what about the question I had earlier? I asked if my plastic, electronic float switch could be adding silica to my water? I just looked at it and it's covered in some kind of brown, rusty looking stuff. I didn't know plastic could rust from saltwater.

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OK' date=' I can do that.....But what about the question I had earlier? I asked if my plastic, electronic float switch could be adding silica to my water? I just looked at it and it's covered in some kind of brown, rusty looking stuff. I didn't know plastic could rust from saltwater.[/quote']

 

Plastic can't rust. The only thing that can rust is iron because rust is just iron oxide. Can you post a picture of the float switch? It could just be algae growth that looks like rust. And to answer your question the float switch will not add silica to the water. Do you have any ceramic media?

 

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Got my water tested and the TDS meter come back zero.......so if that is the case' date=' what else could be causing these stupid diatoms? This really sucks[/quote']

 

How often are you doing water changes? I found that my tanks do best with weekly water changes.

 

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I have a Red Sea Max 250.....If u aren't familiar, it's a 65 gal system which is self-contained. 2 pumps (1st-900gpm, 2nd-450gpm), 6-39w T-5's that usually run about 8 hrs (but down to 5 with this problem arising). I feed about 2-3 times/week, mysis shrimp or flake food, water changes every week or two, and 4 fish (2 clowns, blue damsel, and a coral beauty) + cleaner shrimp. Did I leave anything out?

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I have a Red Sea Max 250.....If u aren't familiar' date=' it's a 65 gal system which is self-contained. 2 pumps (1st-900gpm, 2nd-450gpm), 6-39w T-5's that usually run about 8 hrs (but down to 5 with this problem arising). I feed about 2-3 times/week, mysis shrimp or flake food, water changes every week or two, and 4 fish (2 clowns, blue damsel, and a coral beauty) + cleaner shrimp. Did I leave anything out?[/quote']

 

On the red sea web site it says the tank comes with highly porous ceramic filter as part of the biological filtration. If that is true, that could very well be what is causing the problem.

 

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