Do you use the RO unit of the RO/DI

[Emerald525]

So I have only been using the DI part of the RO/DI unit because I was told by several experienced hobbiests that if you lived in Portland the RO unit was not needed and you waste so much water with it. Lately however, we have been having more trouble with cyanobacteria and dinoflagellates and it seems we have increased TDS coming out of the unit. i was talking to Nick at Rosecity and he was saying there was a change in how the water has been treated at the treatment plants. I also wonder if the ro/di unit is just not working as well as we bought it used. So guess what people! Time for another poll!(clap)

[reefboy]

if the filters were used when you bought it I would replace them and check your silicates that is a biggy with brown deflangettes as far as the cryno could be a number of things one of them being time to change filters.

[reef165]

I only use the DI aswell, the DI dosnt last as long without the water going through the RO, also DI dosnt seem to take out phosphates so I'm adding another chamber with phosphate remover.

[Lowman]

The Portland Water folks are using Chloramines in the water now, so therefore if you are not using the chloramine removing carbon filter in your unit, you are not removing all of the badness in the water.

[Emerald525]

The Portland Water folks are using Chloramines in the water now' date=' so therefore if you are not using the chloramine removing carbon filter in your unit, you are not removing all of the badness in the water.[/quote']

 

Ahhh that's what it was thanks Bob(clap). Will you explain that a little more...(scratch)

 

How do you know ifyou have the chloramine reducing carbon filter?

[Lowman]

You have to order it. Most ro units don't have it on them. BRS has them

[Emerald525]

You have to order it. Most ro units don't have it on them. BRS has them

 

Thanks Bob! We were thinking about ordering a new ro/di from BRS with the group buy which is why I was posting this question.

 

Eddie, we already run a phosban remover and we run GFO as well. When did Portland water start using chloramines and why are they using this? That would make sense why are tds meter seems to have been out of wack...DOH!

[tanktop74]

if the filters were used when you bought it I would replace them and check your silicates that is a biggy with brown deflangettes as far as the cryno could be a number of things one of them being time to change filters.

 

Filters have been changed several times since we bought this unit. Last filter change was less than 2 months ago.

 

Changing the DI resin about every month now.

[BrianB]

I am in Gresham and we have chloramines and the tap water has a slight brownish huh too it. I use 2 prefilters a 5 micron and a 1 micron then it goes through BRS rox carbon and then through a 1 micron chloramine carbon block carbon filter before being passed on to the ro membrane and from there to the DI. I only have to change out the pre-filters about every 6 monthes time. DI has lasted over 600 gallons and is still nice and blue.

[BrianB]

Thanks Bob! We were thinking about ordering a new ro/di from BRS with the group buy which is why I was posting this question.

 

Eddie, we already run a phosban remover and we run GFO as well. When did Portland water start using chloramines and why are they using this? That would make sense why are tds meter seems to have been out of wack...DOH!

 

 

Portland just started adding recently I believe. If you don't already know chloramine is a chemical bond between ammonia and chlorine and they use this to keep bacteria and algae blooms out of our drinking water. It is harder to remove than your standard chlorine that Portland used to use, Hence the extra chambers in my RO unit. Without the carbon blocks the chlormines will ruin your RO membrane.

[Emerald525]

Portland just started adding recently I believe. If you don't already know chloramine is a chemical bond between ammonia and chlorine and they use this to keep bacteria and algae blooms out of our drinking water. It is harder to remove than your standard chlorine that Portland used to use' date=' Hence the extra chambers in my RO unit. Without the carbon blocks the chlormines will ruin your RO membrane.[/quote']

 

Thanks for the information. No I didn't know the difference between chloramine and chlorine. Thanks for the information everyone! Very helpful and educational!(clap)

[reef165]

the last chloramine carbon block I got was from upscales

[MadReefer]

RO might waste water that you have to pay for, but it's not a problem for the sewer as they have to add water to process the waste. That's what I've been told anyway.

 

Also, it will waste your DI resin if you don't use the RO.

 

IMO you don't need the DI.

 

But I use the full RO/DI. 6 stages total. 1- sed. 2- carbon 3- carbon 4- RO 5- DI 6- DI

[reef165]

For me it's not the $ (I rent) its more of the environmental part, it takes energy, chemicals and such to produce the water for your tap and to just let it go down the drain for me kinda makes me feel a bit guilty, I know it's a small part, how is my 300 or so gallons every couple weeks going to make a dif., but you fill a pool one gallon at a time and the more people you have putting a gallon in the faster it will fill ( kinda round about analogy ) I have done quite a bit of reading on the ro/di filters and such, and from what I read the membrains are really usefull in the midwest whare there water comes out of the tap with TDS of 1500 and up, and using resin only, the resin only lasts a couple hundred gallons before it is all full. Here in the NW are water is very clean with very low TDS. My DI lasts about 4 to 6 monthes without a RO. So for me I dont see the need to run the RO membraine, I test my water coming out of carbon and DI and it has 0 TDS. I feel better for myself knowing I'm doing my small part.

[MadReefer]

I hear ya, and I used to worry about that. Here in Utah my TDS is about 400. But in reality it is mostly cal and alk. If I did more water changes I would use tap for everything. But I only change water every 3-6 months so my top off water needs to be as clean as I can make it. Often with water changes I just use tap treated with Prime.

[grassi]

I use both. I noticed some change in the water recently.

I'll do some more researches, thanks for the input and poll!

[reefnjunkie]

I'm Bull Run as I am sure you are-I do use an RO/DI unit and I have plumbed i the dual TDS meter-

 

My water (yesterday) was 9ppm coming from the faucet and 0.00 coming out-I change filters/catridges when the meter reads something other than 0.00

 

I'm going on 16+ months with no filter/cartridge changes:eek: but then again I think I saw the filters/cart. rated for 2500 gallons and then it also says 6-12months, which is it-(nutty)

 

I'm going for the 2500 gallons since the meter reads 0.00

 

What say you-(laugh)

[Emerald525]

I'm Bull Run as I am sure you are-I do use an RO/DI unit and I have plumbed i the dual TDS meter-

 

My water (yesterday) was 9ppm coming from the faucet and 0.00 coming out-I change filters/catridges when the meter reads something other than 0.00

 

I'm going on 16+ months with no filter/cartridge changes:eek: but then again I think I saw the filters/cart. rated for 2500 gallons and then it also says 6-12months, which is it-(nutty)

 

I'm going for the 2500 gallons since the meter reads 0.00

 

What say you-(laugh)

 

Beth checked with the water supply and they are indeed using chloramines. This is what I found on the BRS website:

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/reverses-osmosis-deionization-systems/chloramines-specific-systems

 

We were thinking about the Plus or deluxe any thoughts...

 

Hmmmmm(scratch) Maybe we should start a tax on all saltwater hobbiests for all the water waste....(whistle) Oh no she didn't just say that..DOH!DOH!DOH!(laugh)(laugh)

 

Just kidding folks! Seriously what does everyone think of this unit?

 

And speaking of kidding.. which two forum smart asses (aka Harvard mules) put toilet water as an option?

[Gilliroo]

You can always collect the waste water to use for other things- watering the garden, for instance. Or you can do what I did last night and let it collect in a 3-inch puddle on the basement floor. DOH!

 

Sorry, Kendra!

Gillian

[grassi]

Ok, some results of googleeing (?)

 

There is a debate about the possibility to remove chloramine with activated carbon vs a chemical approach with chemical reducing agents.

This article form R. Holmes Farley is a little bit old, no idea if at that time the units we see now on the market were available:

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-11/rhf/feature/index.php

 

There is a test for testing free chloramines. Maybe we should consider it as a club, buying it, and test a few locations and setups using the chlorine remover. What do you think?

http://www.hach.com/hc/search.product.details.invoker/PackagingCode=1454200/NewLinkLabel=Chlorine+(Free+%26+Total)+Test+Kit,+Model+CN-70,+Color+Disc,+100+tests

[Emerald525]

That's okay Gillian I've been there too. It's easy to forget to turn the water off DOH!

 

It seems at some point if you have a saltwater tank something is going to get really really wet!(laugh)

 

Just show Kendra this link. It has her favorite BRS dweeb giving very useful information about ro/di units!

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/brs-tv/ro-di-videos

 

That should make her happy!(laugh)

 

Again any thoughts on these ro/di units? It's going to be cheaper with the group buy? Don't make me start another poll...(nono)

 

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store/products/reverse-osmosis-filters-and-systems/reverses-osmosis-deionization-systems/chloramines-specific-systems

[grassi]

Even the standard unit will work pretty well. I have a cheapo unit and I read 0 after both ro and di. As Brad, I run the filter until I read something different than 0 and it seems to be a lot of months. I had to change the first carbon pre-filter after a couple of months because it was assembled wrongly (upside down). After that I can run it for a year. I still have the same membrane (bought in mid 2009)

[Emerald525]

Cliff note version of Alex's article

 

For those who don't have time to read here is the summary part of the article. I will definitely start running the RO unit and get the chloramine filter. My gut feeling tells me that this will clear up the problems I have been having. I don't know if testing is needed at this point Alex.

 

Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1. Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.

2. The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.

3. Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.

4. Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.

5. One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.

 

Conclusions

 

Chloramine in tap water should be a significant concern to aquarists. Its peculiar properties make it well suited to disinfection of water supplies, but also make it a potential toxin in aquaria. In order to render the water safe for use, aquarists need to use one of two systems for purification: an inorganic reducing agent combined with an additive that binds ammonia (or a single product that does both), or an RO/DI system. Chloramine is toxic enough that it would seem prudent for aquarists to spend the time and money necessary to ensure that they do not unduly stress their organisms. This activity includes setting up appropriate purification systems, and may also include testing the water to ensure that those systems are functioning properly.

[tanktop74]

Even the standard unit will work pretty well. I have a cheapo unit and I read 0 after both ro and di. As Brad' date=' I run the filter until I read something different than 0 and it seems to be a lot of months. I had to change the first carbon pre-filter after a couple of months because it was assembled wrongly (upside down). After that I can run it for a year. I still have the same membrane (bought in mid 2009)[/quote']

 

This is very intersting, although I am not currently using the RO part... My filters last 2-3 months, DI about a month lately and I only get a 0 TDS for about 2 weeks before it starts to creap back up. And my water in from the tap varies from 10-26 tds from day to day depending on the rain fall it seems.

 

SO a NEW RO/DI unit is in my future!

[kendaroo]

We use the 75 gpd 5 stage standard model from BRS, and now I'm going to order a chloramine filter...!

good luck