bswe22 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 So I can't seem to get rid of this algae. It is on the glass and sand all the time. Anybody have any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitricker Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 have you tested for phosphates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fpd4308 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Re: Algae Proplem Nitrates, phospahtes? What lighting?is it only on that side of your tank? Irect sunlight on that side? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciao Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Looks like the stuff that was on mine. Get some asterina snails. 50 of them took care of the problem for me in my 210. It took about a week and a half before the algae is gone. If it's on the sand, do you notice any bubbles? Could be Dinoflagelletes which I went through as well. I think mine was caused by the tank naturally cycling since it's a relatively new tank(3 months) and most of it has gone away now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Nitrates' date=' phospahtes? What lighting?is it only on that side of your tank? Irect sunlight on that side?[/quote'] Nitrates are at "0" and phospahtes are at ".5". I have an Aquaticlife 24" T5HO light fixture that is running 8 hours a day with Atintics running for 10 hours. There is no direct sunlight and it is all over all the glass not just the one side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Looks like the stuff that was on mine. Get some asterina snails. 50 of them took care of the problem for me in my 210. It took about a week and a half before the algae is gone. If it's on the sand' date=' do you notice any bubbles? Could be Dinoflagelletes which I went through as well. I think mine was caused by the tank naturally cycling since it's a relatively new tank(3 months) and most of it has gone away now.[/quote'] I have 6 asterina snails already. It is only a 20 gallon tank. My tank is 6 months old now, I would think that cycling algae's would be gone by now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coralreefer Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 2 things--1) phosphates are probably an issue and 2) not enough flow on that side...I was dealing with the same thing... Not dinos...straight microalgae, usually taken care of with GFO... DrMerle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 2 things--1) phosphates are probably an issue and 2) not enough flow on that side...I was dealing with the same thing... Not dinos...straight microalgae, usually taken care of with GFO... DrMerle This might be a stupid question but what is "GFO"? I have a powerhead on each side of the tank. I might start blowing things off rocks if I add more flow.(laugh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 A form of Iron Oxide Hydroxide. Granular Ferric Oxide is the commercial name Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 Check out Bulk Reef Supply, they have a dual carbon/GFO reactor that from what I've seen from the person on here who ordered one is really nice, requires only one pump to work it, runs about 60 bucks and the media should run you another 40 for both, and with your size tank, should last you quite a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 Is that something that I would put into the filter to remove phosphates? I picked up PhosGuard by Seachem yesterday. Is that the same stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jgf86123 Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 The dual carbon/GFO reactor will keep your water nice and clean and really help with the phosphate problem, and you could easily add a phosban reactor as well, BRS sells them too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted February 7, 2010 Share Posted February 7, 2010 I run that dual reactor on my 100g system but on my nano I just run a bag of chemi pure elite. Works great for algae control and it's cheap and easy compared to a reactor. Also I would suggest more water changes and less feeding until you get rid of them. I would perform a 50% then some 20% bi-weekly. Feed only once a week the corals (before wc) and just enough the fish. Fish can stay weeks without food. Not saying that it is a good practice to starve them to death, but just adjust a bit until you solve the algae problem. Readings on phosphates could be weird (reading 0) because the algae are consuming all of them. Also add more flow, if you can. What's you ph? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 7, 2010 Author Share Posted February 7, 2010 I run that dual reactor on my 100g system but on my nano I just run a bag of chemi pure elite. Works great for algae control and it's cheap and easy compared to a reactor. Also I would suggest more water changes and less feeding until you get rid of them. I would perform a 50% then some 20% bi-weekly. Feed only once a week the corals (before wc) and just enough the fish. Fish can stay weeks without food. Not saying that it is a good practice to starve them to death, but just adjust a bit until you solve the algae problem. Readings on phosphates could be weird (reading 0) because the algae are consuming all of them. Also add more flow, if you can. What's you ph? ph is at 8.2.... I spot feed everybody. My fish come right to me and take food from my tweezers. I feed them every other day. The guys that I trust at the LFS said to old off on the water changes for two weeks. They were hoping that the algae would consume what ever it was they are living on then go away. That has not worked. I am going to try PhosGaurd by Seachem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobby1212 Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 When you wipe the glass does the algae come off easy and float in the water like powder? Does it come right back after a few days? If so it is like what I had and it will just go away after a couple weeks. Just keep your phosphate in check. How old is your tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Ph is good for algae fighting... same question here: how old is the tank? If is not more than 2 months I agree with LFS, wait a little for wc and see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 8, 2010 Author Share Posted February 8, 2010 I set up the tank in the middle of last September. It is just about 6 months old. Yes it is like a dust on the front glass, I wipe it away and then it returns a few days later. I have had this algae for the last 6 weeks. How long do I need to wait until it goes away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grassi Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Do some water changes and add that phosphate remover. Feed less. They will go away in a few weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
new school Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 +1 coralreefer and grassi, if you have phosphates and nitrates in your aquarium keep in mind they will most likely be consumed by the problem algea at the level they are entering the aquarium explaining why you have very low levels on your test kit. a lg water change may only aggravate your algae problem if its coming thru your supply water. 1.test your supply water and makeup water for phosphates. 2.test your reactor return water to see if your media is relasing phosphates if no reactor disregard. using phos-gaurd is a quick reacting media and you must remove or swap it around a week. gfo lasts longer but can cost more, tests have shown it can also leach back very small amounts over time. typically this is not an issue. thus the more preferred media. i use both, the phos gaurd when i notice something needing quick attention, this works very well in removing phophates quickly. i will even add 3 times the necessary amount to expedite the process. 3. slow or stop all feeding, supplements. at least for a week or two 4. only perform the water change after you know for sure its not the supply water. if it is. find a better supply. aquarium store or r.o.? also note some frozen foods even though they advertise purified water w no phosphates are used during manufacturing are misleading so you can also perform a test with food run off for phosphates as well. 5. do increase flow. 6. check the light schedule. 10-12 hrs is normal but can be too much if excess nutrients are available for problem algae, you can shorten this to 8 hrs but you want to find the entrance point for excess nutrients soon as you can, then bump em back up. 7. if you have a skimmer, clean it and re dial it in as this exports phophates via precipitation. it is important to know if your by a window. i didnt see a reply. the sun can def cause algae to go off! kitchen or vent, also sprays and dust can aid in causing nutrients to enter your tank. but typically not a big issue. hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nwcoralfarm Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 Your phosphates could be the issue, also what kind of test kit are you using? Some are much more accurate then others. The other area of focus would be what you have in the tank, how many fish, etc. With a tank that small I would not worry about using something like a GFO, there is no reason IMO (in my opinion) Why you shouldn't be able to run this tank completely natural as long as it is not overstocked; but being that we are talking about a 20 gallon tank that would be pretty easy to do. What are you using for filtration? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CA2OR Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 are you using tap water to top off? Or are you getting water via Fred Myer's or similar water machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gradth Posted February 8, 2010 Share Posted February 8, 2010 I have come to the conclusion that TIME is the ultimate answer when fighting algae. I quite litterally have been battling algae, hair algae and Cyno since day one of my tank. I have tried everything and really had nothing work. It would go away for a bit, the hair algae "stopped" growing, but would not go away. A while ago I used redslimeremover to try and combat the cyno. After 2 hefty water changes and getting my skimmer back on line the cyno was finally gone. About 2 weeks later all of my algae just vanished. Now about a month later the only algae im getting is the glass algae and coraline algae. My tank will be a year next month some time, and im hoping im done battling the algae, at least for the most part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 are you using tap water to top off? Or are you getting water via Fred Myer's or similar water machine? I have been using nothing but RO/DI water from Liquid Sunshine. I will have to start getting water else where now that they are leaving us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 Your phosphates could be the issue, also what kind of test kit are you using? Some are much more accurate then others. The other area of focus would be what you have in the tank, how many fish, etc. With a tank that small I would not worry about using something like a GFO, there is no reason IMO (in my opinion) Why you shouldn't be able to run this tank completely natural as long as it is not overstocked; but being that we are talking about a 20 gallon tank that would be pretty easy to do. What are you using for filtration? I am using API's test kit. Should I get a different one? I only have 3 small fish. A Tailspot Blenny, Percula Clown (small) and a Babrbershop Goby paired with a Pistol Shrimp. I also have a Cleaner Shrimp and an Emerald Crab. 2 Scarlett hermits, 5 very small blue hermits and a bunch of different snails. There is thirty pounds of live rock and a nice thick live sand bed. Here is a picture. As for my filter, I have a Pengium 170 bio wheel (w/o bio-wheel) and a Aqua C Ramora Nano protein skimmer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bswe22 Posted February 9, 2010 Author Share Posted February 9, 2010 I have come to the conclusion that TIME is the ultimate answer when fighting algae. I quite litterally have been battling algae, hair algae and Cyno since day one of my tank. I have tried everything and really had nothing work. It would go away for a bit, the hair algae "stopped" growing, but would not go away. A while ago I used redslimeremover to try and combat the cyno. After 2 hefty water changes and getting my skimmer back on line the cyno was finally gone. About 2 weeks later all of my algae just vanished. Now about a month later the only algae im getting is the glass algae and coraline algae. My tank will be a year next month some time, and im hoping im done battling the algae, at least for the most part. Sounds like I just need to wait it out and let it run its course. I don't know????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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