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Frag/T5 experiment build


Smann

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yeah let me know, I'm off tuesdays and uasually home by 4 or 5. if a better time would work (driving from Vancouver I understand) i am pretty flexible

Steve

I'll probably try to make it Tuesday and just leave early (Maybe around noon) to take my son into town. (I have to drop him off in town daily around 1:45 PM and then come back up to Vancouver to pick up my wife from work) Actually I'll be coming by your place every day around 2:45 and again at 3:30 (Once each direction going to Tualatin). Oh did I mention that was AM? DOH! (I'll be leaving here in an hour or so for todays drive out there)(scratch)

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Rick, no wonder we were messaging each other around 4:30AM :-) Yup, I like to get one too... I really like the look of that tank especially the OF It will be my display tank instead of frags tank.... some people having too much frags tank (brick) sorry for being jealous but I wish I have more tanks.

 

This one for Steve, where would you put Vortech 20 if you have one in your frag tank? I am trying to figure out if I have a tank like your, most likely I will then where you I put the vortech? I like the vortech make waves in the tank so it a must have :)

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This one for Steve, where would you put Vortech 20 if you have one in your frag tank? I am trying to figure out if I have a tank like your, most likely I will then where you I put the vortech? I like the vortech make waves in the tank so it a must have :)

 

I think most would put it on the side maybe towards the back. I bought a Koralia #1 and a #2, I started with the #1 in my MT fuge to get some circulation. I put the #2 in the prop tank and it looked like a friggin football so I switched them. With the two returns down low and the koralia across the top from the side, back, at an angle it kicked up some serious detrius and is more than enough flow for that size tank.

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Yippee, the glass should be ready to pick up tomorrow.

 

Some more questions,

 

1: How deep (front to back) did you make the overflow portion? Looks like it's around 3"?

 

2: Did you cap the center drain portion to prevent anything from pouring over the top directly into it?

 

3: How long are the slots in the 2 side pieces inside the overflow?

 

4: How many GPH are you running?

 

I'm currently trying to work out what will be needed to keep anything from washing over into the drain since one of them will be a display tank (the other I'm not worried too much about) and I suspect that it will require both a cap over the center chamber and longer slots in the sides. Any thoughts?

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Yippee, the glass should be ready to pick up tomorrow.

 

Some more questions,

 

1: How deep (front to back) did you make the overflow portion? Looks like it's around 3"?

 

2: Did you cap the center drain portion to prevent anything from pouring over the top directly into it?

 

3: How long are the slots in the 2 side pieces inside the overflow?

 

4: How many GPH are you running?

 

I'm currently trying to work out what will be needed to keep anything from washing over into the drain since one of them will be a display tank (the other I'm not worried too much about) and I suspect that it will require both a cap over the center chamber and longer slots in the sides. Any thoughts?

 

Yes 3" x 7"

 

No all three chambers are open to the overflow, I capped both drains with strainers

 

thay can be pretty deep, 2", they are just holding the cheato back, the sand is probably not necessary as there isnt enough to do much. I've built a new sump with a 16"x20" center chamber that I will do some sand for the root in.

 

500 gph on one with 1/2" return and 700gph with 3/4" return

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Yes 3" x 7"

 

No all three chambers are open to the overflow, I capped both drains with strainers

 

thay can be pretty deep, 2", they are just holding the cheato back, the sand is probably not necessary as there isnt enough to do much. I've built a new sump with a 16"x20" center chamber that I will do some sand for the root in.

 

500 gph on one with 1/2" return and 700gph with 3/4" return

 

Thanks, I think I'm going to try some deep slots and capping the center chamber on the first tank to see how it works out. Maybe make the cap removable. The rear portion will be the full depth of the tanks on these so I'll have plenty of depth to use. (12" on one and 18" on the other)

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Thanks' date=' I think I'm going to try some deep slots and capping the center chamber on the first tank to see how it works out. Maybe make the cap removable. The rear portion will be the full depth of the tanks on these so I'll have plenty of depth to use. (12" on one and 18" on the other)[/quote']

Try the cap but may make a little noise if the water flows onto it then onto either side.

Where are you going to run the returns?, I ran them under the overflow

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Try the cap but may make a little noise if the water flows onto it then onto either side.

Where are you going to run the returns?, I ran them under the overflow

 

I'm hoping it will actually disperse the noise but we'll see. If I make it a removable piece then it can be run either way though and I have a couple of other ideas that I'll try if it is. For the returns I plan to use 2 bulkhead fittings on each one. One regular fitting on the outside and then another through the divider panel using Uni-Seals. I haven't worked out the positions yet though on either one. I plan to figure out mine first (I want to avoid the check valve on mine) and then get with Benny for the specifics on his. I'll probably still try to get over there sometime in the next few days to look closer at yours before I finish assembling them. (Glass shop didn't have the edges done yet yesterday) Primarily I'm still undecided on the positions for the return lines to make the best use of them but I also want to look closer at a couple of other things as well anyway.

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Sounds like it comming along, Take some pictures while you are assembling the tank I havent worked with glass and would like to see how it goes together.

 

I just finished my new sump, moved the chiller and decided to run both tanks off one Genx 30, looks pretty nice and I dropped a few plugs so the electrical looks alot cleaner. Got some new frags in the T5 tank and will post some pics tomorrow

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I'll try to remember to get pics when I do the second one. The first one has the outside drying right now. A couple of hours ago I was getting cabin fever and decided to do something even if it hurts (slipped and caught a rib on my tank a a couple of days ago) so I assembled the outside on the first one.

 

On mine I plan to gravity feed off my display tank straight into this one and then return to the sump. That should give me around 700 GPH through it and then I may toss a small powerhead on it as well if I need it.

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Update

 

Installed the new sump 36"x16"x14" deep, divided into three chambers the center being the largest 20"

 

newsump.jpg

 

The four overflow lines and small skimmer(Ihad) in the first section. I put some eggcrate to contain the cheato in the center, If I can get it to grow enough I might remove the filter sock. The cheato was pruned from the small rear sections in the overflow, its growing really fast.

 

sump2-1.jpg

 

Both tanks are being run off a Genx 30, Its alittle loud so I'm going to move it behind and on the floor, I going to swap it for a Genx40.

 

sump3.jpg

 

A few tank pictures

 

tanks-1.jpg

 

The T5 tank

 

tank-2.jpg

 

tank3-2.jpg

 

Just picked up this Purple Monti, also have a piece in my main tank

 

purpledigi.jpg

 

The tanks have been running since the end of June so far the corals in the T5 tank are keeping thier color and growing, the colors are lighter than the same coral in the MH tank. There are eight 24w bulbs so its almost 200 watts total.

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Wow! I like the sump. What bulbs are you running in th t5 set up? what halide bulb?

Keep the pics coming! Looking great

 

Thanks

The T5's are 2 ea of 2 types actinic blue and the same super actinic white, I have to find the actual bulbs ,Travis at Upscales picked them out.

 

I was wondering the same things. Didn't you say the MH is a new 400W bulb? What brand and temp? The T-5 tank sure looks much brighter even on 1/2 the watts.

 

 

 

The MH is XM 400w 20k with 2-9w blue tubes, The white in the T5's definetly dominate and make it bright, but I think the white are the higher K bulbs

 

Also, are you growing chaeto with a MH bulb? No wonder it is growing fast!

Both tanks have chaeto in the overflow sections, the T5 is actually growing faster and is a lighter (nicer) green. The chaeto in the MH side is dark green and harder like a brillo pad. The light over the sump is a single T5 fixture with reflector metal that I bent around it, we'll see how the chaeto grows there

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Steve what T5 frag tank? I see no frags tank... I see a tank with cleaner shrimps and couple fishes' date=' corals.... look more like a displace tank :-)[/quote']

 

The frag tank is on the left with the MH light, I did not rock scape it as I'm just going to have racks for frags. The T5 is a display with all the rock work, CUC, fish,inverts,anemones, etc.

I have to clean the frag tank then I'll post some pics

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Sounds like it comming along, Take some pictures while you are assembling the tank I havent worked with glass and would like to see how it goes together.

 

....

Here is a link to the thread I started for this. http://www.pnwmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=14514 I didn't take any pictures while assembling it however I did describe it somewhat. For the first tank a lot of it involved trying different things out to see what would work so I held off until I figured it out to post anything. With the second tank I'll try to get some more pics through each step including one or two things I'll do just a little different.
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