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So I finally did a water change


CA2OR

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I can't speak much on the sps side. Outside of the Birdsnest which apparently was growing. The one big monti I have seems to be growing pretty fast too but it is the common brick tone monti so what do you expect? I don't plan on continueing to ignore my tank, I just hate buying water and don't want to pay 50 million dollars for an RO sytem

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This is the one I have: http://www.airwaterice.com/product/1MMDI/Mighty_Mite_50GPD_with_DI_Added.html

They also offer a 10% discount off of the regular price: http://www.pnwmas.org/forums/showthread.php?t=10875

 

The cost would be around $100 and this unit is set up to connect to a regular faucet. (I have mine hooked up in the bathroom and I fill buckets in the tub so I don't have to worry about it overflowing)

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I am getting ready to take the plunge and get the Typhoon III. I'm done buying water. It is too far of a drive for me to go to fish stores all the time now, not to mention carting around 10+ jugs (5gal) in my little car!!! I'll be putting up a thread detailing my plans soon(plotting)...

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I posted this to a different thread but I thought it was relevant here too.

 

I seem to ignore my tank with good results, this is the second time I have done this and to be honest it is most likely going to become the norm(hidesbehindsofa). The first time I experienced OUTSTANDING growth with some of my corals. GSP showed the most enjoyment. I had about 40 polyps when I got them which was in the beginning of my 3 month "ignore the tank" routine, and by the end....they grew onto my wall and took off. I had about a 8 inch by 3 inch slab of GSP on my back wall:p. I will be keeping an eye on my other corals as I have always just had zoa's, Green bubble tip, Hammer and Duncan's. Now I have a couple monti's, some Birdsnest, Devils hand, toadstool, FS, and an Acro. Maybe not all will thrive but I am going to find out.(plotting)

 

I was told something similar by quite a few old timer reef keepers about seldom doing water changes. Basically it went like this "If you see stuff not opening like normal (only a few polyps, not fully open) test your water. if you see stuff dying....do a water change and test. If you see stuff growing....leave it alone. Otherwise YOU become the problem your tank is experiencing." So that is what I am returning to. One of those guys had a 150g with a straight up zoanthid grass. I mean yeah he had sand but you couldn't see it(nutty). I am not BS's here. If you are on RC I can give you his SN. You can ask Snowpunk, I test my water WAY less than I shouldDOH!, I very seldom do water changes unless something looks wrong (and sometimes not even then)DOH!, I DO NOT DOSE AT ALL(nono), I have, and still do from occasion, used tap water with a simple treatment for the chlorine or amoniaDOH!. And I seem to experience some pretty decent growth(scratch). OH, I over stock my tankDOH!, I feed WAY too muchDOH!DOH!....do you want me to keep going? Seriously I can....(whistle)

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This seems to make sense. I found it on another site thought I would share.

 

"Some people take the tact of minimal water changes, believing that aged reef tank water takes on a chemistry that should not be disturbed. This is often more a pride thing than anything else. It feels good to be able to maintain an ecosystem for extended periods of time with minimal influences from the external world. The end tank result is less important to the hobbyist than how they got that result. When I have run a tank without water changes, the tank seems to do OK for a period of time and then starts to decline. This decline is characterized by the corals taking on a less robust look. LPS corals tend to not open as fully for instance. This change is gradual over time and not immediately obvious, due possibly to the fact that the corals are consuming some of the elements in the water. Although there are trace element replacement additives you can add to the tank, they only replace the major elements that are known to be consumed in the reef tank in quantity such as strontium or magnesium. There is no doubt that other traced elements available in newly mixed seawater are also consumed to some extent and we do not yet know what those are, so they are not replaced. The only way to replace those elements currently is through replacement of some portion of the tank water.

 

Other people take the tact that massive water changes should be made to dilute any possible pollution in the tank. Large water exchange regimens can get somewhat complex. These often revolve around premixing large quantities of water, heating it up to the correct temperature, aerating it to increase its oxygen content, shutting down the circulation system, draining a significant portion of the tank water and then replacing it with the new water without exposing the corals for too long of time to the air. The obvious question here is why the hobbyist must dilute pollution in their tank, since a properly balanced system should not have pollution per se. Large water changes (around 25% of tank volume) can be helpful as a remedy to help correct an out of control situation in the tank, but depending on it to maintain basic water parameters over time usually indicates that the tank is not properly setup. The usual reason for large water changes is to try to dilute elevated nitrate levels, but controlling nitrates with water changes is a losing proposition, as you are only addressing the symptom of the problem and not treating the problem itself, which is insufficient nitrate processing within the tank. A properly setup reef tank should have zero or near zero nitrates with or without significant water changes. Large water changes cannot easily be made without subjecting the tank inhabitants to at least some amount of stress via temperature change, salinity change or other water chemistry change. Also, large water changes can tend to undo water chemistry alterations that have been made intentionally, such as increased Alkalinity levels. It tends to go against one of the primary rules of reef keeping which is to maintain a stable environment.

 

As with most extreme views, the best course of action for most hobbyist’s lies somewhere in between these two viewpoints. Small frequent water changes of 5-10% or so seem to provide good results on several fronts.

-----This size of water change can usually be made with water volume available in the sump, thereby removing the problem of exposing the corals to the air or requiring circulation systems to be shut down.

-----The percentage is small enough that it cannot significantly alter the water parameters even if the chemistry, salinity or temperature match is off somewhat.

-----This quantity of exchange does not require the replacement water to undergo extensive premixing, aeration or even heating if the water addition is made slowly."

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Also, if you dose with anything (mg, ca, alk) a water change will help bring the levels back in check if you add a bit too much of a chemical. Red slime would be another reason.....as well as to replenish various other items that we do not dose for.

For me it is a nice piece of mine to know that I am maintaining my mini-slice of a reef.

Also, weekly water changes (or every 2 weeks) is a good time to do some testing to make sure all is OK..best to find out before the problem shows itself (ie: red slime) :)

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Snorkelwasp

we do water changes to avoid red slime and hair algae(if you had to treat for it you waited to long). i can get away for a few months in my sps dominated system. but it costs a ton of money (this is where working at a pet store comes into play)

 

1) giant double pump recirc skimmer.

2)3 phosban with carbon, phosguard, and phosban (first 2 replaced monthly)

3)giant cal reactor running full blast 24/7 (effluent = who cares, nothing is enough)

4)uv sterilizer way oversized

5)i dont run a fuge as the plants usually wither away due to lack of nutrient source. otherwise i would

6)RO Water!!!! without that i think its just pointless. they arent millions of dollars (besides by buying water you are paying for their RO unit, and i tested wincos "ro" water and the phosphates were off the scale!) get a good used unit, replace filters and away you go!

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no I use tap water, and have been doing 5 gallon water changes about every 2 months or so. Had one bout with red slime, a while ago, but nothing since. I do run a fuge, I toss cheato out by the handfulls about every month or so, no cal reactor, no phosban, phosguard, but I do run carbon. 9w UV sterilizer, and air driven skimmer.

 

The only time I had an issue with the red slime was when I was using the R\O from Fred Meyers, so I definately agree with that.

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no I use tap water, and have been doing 5 gallon water changes about every 2 months or so. Had one bout with red slime, a while ago, but nothing since. I do run a fuge, I toss cheato out by the handfulls about every month or so, no cal reactor, no phosban, phosguard, but I do run carbon. 9w UV sterilizer, and air driven skimmer.

 

The only time I had an issue with the red slime was when I was using the R\O from Fred Meyers, so I definately agree with that.

 

I would be for less water changes-Curious do you check NO3 and PO4, if so waht type of levels are you getting?

Thanks in advance for your time

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I do weekly water changes like religion. Great growth and I have never battled algae or anything. I'm willing to bet if I did NOT do these water changes my SPS would suffer due to trace elements. If you are a softie dominated tank you can probably get away with less water changes. Using RO is the best way IMHO - I can FULLY control what goes in my tank and I don't have to scratch my head in wonder as much if something does go wrong - I know my water was quite pure. One less worry!

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