siskiou Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 I want to drill a row of holes into an internal wall of my sump with the largest regular drill bit we own. Is this okay, or do I need specific drill bits for acrylic? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael7979 Posted September 17, 2006 Share Posted September 17, 2006 I drilled some holes in some scrap one time, but start out with the smallest bit (size) and work your way up. BE CAREFUL! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 I drilled some holes in some scrap one time' date=' but start out with the smallest bit (size) and work your way up. BE CAREFUL![/quote'] Can you tell me a little more? What will happen if I'm not careful enough? Does the acrylic potentially crack, or melt or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mbeef61 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 you want to be careful about pressure....keep the bit spinning fast but use a light pressure and let it drill it out slow...go slow with pressure and fast with bit speed....the acrylic can potentially crack...especially when the drill makes it through it can twist or punch the acrylic and break it....just go slow and use caution but its really easy....just use a nice sharp bit and youll be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkto Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Regular twist bits will work ok but if it's not ground for plastics it's better to use a dull one than a new sharp one. Bits made for wood and metal have a more aggressive cutting angle where plastic bits are designed to scrape the material. Just use a slower speed keep the surface wet if possible to lubricate and cool the bit. If the bit bites the material too hard it could crack the plastic. If you're looking for something over 1/2" I would use a spade bit... they cut acrylic very well. Start with an 1/8" pilot and then use the final size you need. If you only have twist bits... start with 1/8" and work your way up a 1/16" inch at at a time until you get to your final size. Of course if you have some scrap practice a bit on that first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reefgeek84 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 On my tank I used a regular wood drill bit..it is not hard at all...just go slow with it and really let the bit do the cutting...keep it nice and straight...Practice on a piece of scrap to get a feel for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fly guy Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 yeah, a regular wood bit will work fine and not to be contradictive, but start out with the size you want, there is no need to ramp up with smaller sizes. In fact that will just make it a PITA each size as you would have to put the hole you just cut out back in to get the next one started. Just go smooth and steady and make sure you have lots of juice if you are using a cordless drill.......the biggest danger lies in if your drill stops and the acrylci melts to it. Make sure your bit is firmly seated in the drill and cut away. Acrylic is a piece of cake to cut until you get up into 3/4" + IMO, and even then its not hard but the right bit and some cooling becomes more important Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 I Agree with fly. Just start with the size you want. Anything over ½ inch. I just use a hole saw. I tried the, start small and move up. Only once, what a pain, not to even say, try and keep the hole round., Also, depending on the thickness. You may want to put something behind it, for support, again, fast bit, go real easy with pressure. The bit will do the work. Oh yea, The only time I have cracked it was with a spade bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 Thanks for all the advice! Keep it coming! I can sure use it! So, do I really have to be running water over the acrylic while I drill? I'm doing this when my husband and daughter are off to work/school tomorrow (so I have time to concentrate and get this done without interruptions). But this means there will be no extra hands to help out and I don't fancy handling a drill with one hand while running water with the other! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Thanks for all the advice! Keep it coming! I can sure use it! So, do I really have to be running water over the acrylic while I drill? I'm doing this when my husband and daughter are off to work/school tomorrow (so I have time to concentrate and get this done without interruptions). But this means there will be no extra hands to help out and I don't fancy handling a drill with one hand while running water with the other! Ok let's back up. Lets see. Is, were your drilling, full of water??? Is it half full of water??? Is it on a work bench, or???? what is the thickness of the acrilic? what size hole are you drilling? How many? How close to an edge? Are you using a cordless, or plug in. If plug in and water. You are plugging into a GFI right!!!! Please respond Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 Ok let's back up. Lets see. Is' date=' were your drilling, full of water??? Is it half full of water???[/quote'] It's empty! I'm planning on drilling the holes into one of the inside dividers. The acrylic is 3/16" thick. It's a plug in drill and I had planned on doing the drilling in the carport, where I have no access to a GFCI outlet. That's why I am asking about the need for water to cool of the drill bit, as was mentioned by a couple of people. I'll be drilling 6 or 7 holes about 3/8" size. -Susanne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 It's empty! I'm planning on drilling the holes into one of the inside dividers. The acrylic is 3/16" thick. It's a plug in drill and I had planned on doing the drilling in the carport, where I have no access to a GFCI outlet. That's why I am asking about the need for water to cool of the drill bit, as was mentioned by a couple of people. I'll be drilling 6 or 7 holes about 3/8" size. -Susanne NO water needed, do use very little pressure, yes it will heat up, but that's not going to hurt a thing, clean bit of melted acrilic between holes if it builds up, don't need GFI, I freeked, nobody had asked it, BUT YES, if your going to use water to cool, GFI.I wouldn't use water, If it were me. I would take a sharpie, mark all the spots your going to do, and just go from point to point. For me, I would put a piece of wood on the backside, 2x4 something to keep any flex,cut vibration, and strenthen the hole operation, this should help from cracking, thats what I do with flat work, especially, more holes, weeker it becomes. Good luck, It really isn't that hard to do. The bit will practually melt it's way through, and that's ok. ONLY other tip is don't stop half way through, as what has heated up will harden with the bit, restarting can cause to much stress and crack it. so just do it!!!!!!!!! You'll do just fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mister crabs Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 you could always take it outside if possible and drill it with the garden hose running on it./....but i dunno about needing water for drilling acylic....i just know you gotta have it for glass Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 no water needed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael7979 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 you want to be careful about pressure....keep the bit spinning fast but use a light pressure and let it drill it out slow...go slow with pressure and fast with bit speed....the acrylic can potentially crack...especially when the drill makes it through it can twist or punch the acrylic and break it....just go slow and use caution but its really easy....just use a nice sharp bit and youll be fine Sorry I agree with this, should have giving you a better answer the first time. Sorry I'm late with a backup response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 Thanks all! Hole number one is successfully done, with not much pressure and fastest speed. No water! Took a bit longer than I expected to make it through, but now I know what to expect for the next one. Back to work... Edited to add: mission accomplished with no problems! Getting closer to actually getting the tank set up. We emptied out the 40G and moved it into our daughter's room over the weekend. It's all shimmed and even. Now to accomplish the same for the 120! It needs some serious shimming (of course in the back, where it's hard to reach. Is there such a thing as a wedge shaped board? I need 3/8" more height along the whole back of the tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael7979 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Any lumber yard or home improvement shop should sell shims. Used for door jambs and windows. It would take a few of them but would get the job done. But use them on the stand not the tank. HTH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Now to accomplish the same for the 120! It needs some serious shimming (of course in the back, where it's hard to reach. Is there such a thing as a wedge shaped board? I need 3/8" more height along the whole back of the tank. AHHHH. I'm only throwing this out here, because I have not shimmed a tank before. At least not tapping shims in. If you need nearly 1/2 in height in the rear, your gona need IMO to also accommodate the sides, IE front corner on nice flat area. Rear corner, yup I know shims across back. Is just floating, ( no pun intended) front to rear. If this is so, I would go to a cabinet shop or other wood shop and have shims made, from front to back, sure space them, some, buy have them all made the same. Height and weight distribution would ALL be the same. IMO if you just start hammering shims, door jam style, you wouldn’t have consistent distribution of weight and height and again free floating from front to back. I don’t know where you are in this project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 I haven't started the shimming yet, and I'm definitely going to accommodate the sides, too. I can reach them easily. I was just looking for a better way to get the height in the back, since there isn't enough room for anyone to crawl behind. My current plan is to lay a half inch thick (really 3/8") board along the back and put the back of the stand on that to bring it up even with the front. Then shim along the sides until everything is supported as evenly as I can possibly accomplish with our uneven floor. Does this make sense? I'm open to any and all suggestions! My trip to home depot only yielded the "plastic" shims (better around potential spills), but not any "wedge shaped boards, like I was hoping for. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 I'm sorry I don't agree. When you LIFT the back, only the very tip of the front will have support. Another words, take a ruler yardstick, board. Doesn't matter. raise one end up 3/8, look at the other end. What' touching? I would still do full shimms That's MO. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael7979 Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Yeah if it's 3/8" thats alot! I was thinking of something way smaller. Blaine's idea sounds good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 18, 2006 Author Share Posted September 18, 2006 I think we may be misunderstanding each other. As I wrote previously, I'm not just lifting the back and leaving everything in between the back and front hanging. The stand does not have a solid bottom (it's an AGA stand, made for this tank). It's sitting on a 2x4 frame. I'd be shimming all the way around this, not just the back, but also the sides. The front doesn't need any shimming, except where it needs a tiny bit of shim so it fully touches the ground not just on the very edge. And just to clear up what you are saying: what do you mean by "full shims"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CCR Posted September 18, 2006 Share Posted September 18, 2006 Ok it helps that there is NO middle, no plywood the sump, or anything else is sitting on. Is that correct.??? If so. What I am talking about is, a single shin, piece of 2x4, to match the area of the bottom of the stand. If your stand is 18 in deep, F to B. I would ark the board at , Crud. Here, my cell I'm PM ing you.Please call. It will only take a minute to explain. ok I'm not trying to tell you what to do, thats your call. I assure you it will make cence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siskiou Posted September 19, 2006 Author Share Posted September 19, 2006 Ok it helps that there is NO middle, no plywood the sump, or anything else is sitting on. Is that correct.??? No, that's not correct. Since a picture speaks more than a thousand words: There *is* a plywood board the sump will be sitting on, and it seems solid, but does not sit directly on the ground. It has something like floor joints supporting it, that also don't touch the ground. The only think making contact with the floor is the 2x4 frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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