93 gallon Marineland cube

[XrayGuy]

So I have come back to the hobby after being away for a few years. My last tank was a standard 48" 55 gallon, so this should prove to be a fun upgrade. I am a little rusty on some things and also there are some things that I simply do not know, so I am kind of reviewing and learning at the same time here. I have been trying to be patient and do research on everything so that I do this right from the get go. If you have suggestions or see something that I am doing that's wrong, please let me know.

 

Ok here we go. As the title indicates, this is a Marineland 93 gallon cube 30" x 30" x 24" with corner overflow. I bought this from Jeff @ Cuttlefish and Corals and I must say that I am pretty happy with how he runs his shop. I also got the matching stand, which is on the short side at 26" from very bottom to very top, but I think it will work out OK. I painted the inside of the stand with Kilz primer similar to impur's same tank and vanz. I think this was a great thing to do because it will help keep the moisture out of the wood, thus prolonging the life of the stand eliminating the issue of mold and rotting etc (hopefully). For now, I will be using a 20 gallon long as my sump. The back of the stand is wide open, so the sump tank will stick out a couple of inches, but I am OK with that. I am going to attempt to set up the Herbie method overflow and use the existing PVC that came with the tank for the two upper pipes. Down under, I will be using straight pipes into the sump and the main drain will have a gate valve on it to be able to dial in the Herbie just right. The sump will have three sections - drain from tank, skimmer/fuge, return - and maybe down the road I can add some dosers or reactors of some kind. I already screwed up by not researching what silicone is aquarium safe, so of course as luck would have it, I siliconed my baffles today with the GE type II that is apparently a no no. I will be getting the razor blade out tomorrow to take out the baffles, scrape out the silicone, and re-install them with the GE type I silicone that is recommended. I would like to have a resivoir under there too with ATO water and pump so that I can have that going too. I will be attempting to install my new RODI unit behind my fridge too so that it is close to the tank. As some folks pointed out in another thread, I may have a drain hole in the wall there too that the waste water can maybe go down...I need to look into it to see if it is usable. So without this turning into a novel, here are some pics. I am still working on plumbing, first time doing this myself also, and currently am leak testing the tank.

 

 

Here is what my sump will more or less look like. I have a Reef Octopus SRO 1000 INT skimmer that I have high hopes for. I also have an acrylic fuge box that I need to get a couple of suction cups for and then I plan to mount in the middle section with the skimmer and have chaeto in it. For the drain pipes, should I be hooking a sump sock to them even though they will be submerged due to being Herbie?

 

Return pump. Hopefully this puts out enough juice. If not, then I need to research a suitable replacement.

 

BAD SILICONE!!!

 

I got the Ocean Revive T247 LED light from Jeff also. I will be getting a 10' 3/4" EMT conduit pipe and a pipe bender from Home Depot and making a light hanger like in these pics. I will then secure the hanger in two places on the back of my stand, but leave it a little loose so that I can just rotate the whole thing out of the way when I need to get my hands in the tank. So that I don't mess up my hardwood floors, I will put some type of pad under the bottom of the pole so it can rotate ok.

 

[vanz]

93 gallon Marineland cube

 

Looking good so far. Btw the return pump should go after the over and under baffles to reduce micro bubbles.

 

Id also ditch the socks, just turkey bast the sump from time to time.

 

Create a manifold for the return pump so you can split off the flow to different accessories like a reactor.

 

No clue on that pump. Planning to get a jebao dc pump.

 

 

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[Jeramy]

Very Nice build I love this size cube , the main siphon on your herbie drain should be a little lower so that it does not suck in air from the surface, good call on the gate valve they are the only way to go when dialing in a drain worth every dollar. Good job on painting the inside of the stand to help prolong life also the white sides will make it easier to see when working under there. Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to watching this reef grow =)

[jadams7]

Welcome to the rimless 93 club!! Great looking start so far!

[XrayGuy]

Looking good so far. Btw the return pump should go after the over and under baffles to reduce micro bubbles.

 

Id also ditch the socks, just turkey bast the sump from time to time.

 

Create a manifold for the return pump so you can split off the flow to different accessories like a reactor.

 

No clue on that pump. Planning to get a jebao dc pump.

 

 

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Good to know about the return placement. I had set it that way because that is what most of the pictures looked like when I was Googling it. Totally makes sense though because the skimmer will be making bubbles too. Good thing I am redoing the baffles after all :-)

 

Also thanks for the answer to the socks. I was kindof thinking I didn't need them since most pics I have seen of those drains had no socks.

 

The manifold you speak of should maybe look like the one impur has? That shouldn't be too hard to make

[XrayGuy]

Very Nice build I love this size cube ' date=' the main siphon on your herbie drain should be a little lower so that it does not suck in air from the surface, good call on the gate valve they are the only way to go when dialing in a drain worth every dollar. Good job on painting the inside of the stand to help prolong life also the white sides will make it easier to see when working under there. Keep up the good work and I am looking forward to watching this reef grow =)[/quote']

 

Thank you! Making that main drain shorter is an easy fix. I will knock a couple inches off.

[vanz]

I found some info about your skimmer's recommended sump water level, so keep that in mind when doing your baffles. Easier to raise skimmer than to raise water level is all I'm saying. But also remember your stand is also on the short side.

 

Recommended Sump Water Depth: 5.5"-5.75" (http://www.reefspecialty.com/super-reef-octopus-1000-internal-protein-skimmer)

[XrayGuy]

I found some info about your skimmer's recommended sump water level, so keep that in mind when doing your baffles. Easier to raise skimmer than to raise water level is all I'm saying. But also remember your stand is also on the short side.

 

Recommended Sump Water Depth: 5.5"-5.75" (http://www.reefspecialty.com/super-reef-octopus-1000-internal-protein-skimmer)

 

So to make the water level close to optimum for the skimmer, should I make the baffle that height? And I mean the first and third baffles in the trio between the return section?

[ssappington]

So to make the water level close to optimum for the skimmer' date=' should I make the baffle that height? And I mean the first and third baffles in the trio between the return section?[/quote']

I have mine on an eggcrate platform... I wanted more water in the chamber for the return

[vanz]

Skimmer is 20"H, inside stand is 23.5"H I believe....so if you prop it up too much, you are going to have a difficult time getting the skimmate collector off.

 

My skimmer's sweet spot is 9" so I made the nearest baffle that high.

 

Might have missed it, what are you using as your ATO?

[XrayGuy]

Skimmer is 20"H, inside stand is 23.5"H I believe....so if you prop it up too much, you are going to have a difficult time getting the skimmate collector off.

 

My skimmer's sweet spot is 9" so I made the nearest baffle that high.

 

Might have missed it, what are you using as your ATO?

 

I do not have an ATO plan yet. I know I want to have a resivoir of some kind near the tank though. Ideas on a good one? I need to do some research still

[XrayGuy]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]13651[/ATTACH]

 

Ok so I am thinking that I want this so that I can dose as well as use it for continuous ATO. I realize it may take a bit to dial it in just right to match my evaporation rate, but I will eliminate dealing with float valves or switches. Water may even be more stable? Thoughts?

[Micah]

For ATO:

Don't waste your time with a programmable dosing pump setup. Head on down to cuttlefish again. Get him to order you the right ATO setup. Hydor, autotopoff.com both sell great ATO's. I'm sure people have spares laying around as well that they may be willing to sell. Throw a post up in the classified WTB section.

 

For dosing:

I've heard good preliminary reports on this dosing setup. http://www.fish-street.com/jebao_auto_dosing_pump_dp-4

I wouldn't waste my time on an ebay/auction just because it's slightly cheaper. Pay the extra and get reliable shipping/.

[XrayGuy]

I like eBay for buyer protection along with PayPal. I also only order from US sellers because I have had issues with buying things internationally before (China and Italy).

 

When I go to pick up my RODI at Cuttlefish, I will talk with Jeff about diff options for ATO. Thanks for the info!

[XrayGuy]

Ok a couple of updates. I decided after talking to Jeff and Steve (ssappington) about ATO, that I am going to use the Hydor ATO with the 3 prong temp sensor along with an aqualifter. I also got y my RODI unit setup and running! My plumbing is 95% complete on the tank...just need to get my return pump and then I can plumb that last little bit. I also think I am going to paint the PVC black so that it is less of an eyesore since the return plumbing is going over the back of my tank due to the Herbie overflow. I also finished leak testing the tank and overflow and all is well! Tank is now in its final resting place in the house and awaiting my return. Here are some pics:

[XrayGuy]

Oh and I got the aquarium specific silicone to use on my baffles for the sump, just haven't put them in yet. And I will be getting the conduit I need to make my light hanger this upcoming week too...would do it this weekend but I work every weekend, so I have to wait.

[CuttleFishandCoral]

Looks like it is coming along well. Nice work so far.

[Higher Thinking]

Have you tested that brass 3-way connection on the rodi unit? I bought one of those and hated it. Is that the one where you push the little pin inside the tube and then screw the nut on to clamp it down? I kept having my tubing burst off the nut every time I turned the pressure on.

[XrayGuy]

Have you tested that brass 3-way connection on the rodi unit? I bought one of those and hated it. Is that the one where you push the little pin inside the tube and then screw the nut on to clamp it down? I kept having my tubing burst off the nut every time I turned the pressure on.

 

Yes I have tested it and it is nice and tight with all the tubing and has no leaks at all. And no there are no pins, just the tubing going through the nut and it somehow pressure seals it I think? I tried pulling the tubing out to make sure it was secure and yeah its not coming out. The only issue I have with the RODI at the moment is the RO membrane housing is loud and sounds like the water is doing something weird near the bottom of the RO unit. I pulled the membrane out and double checked that I had it installed correctly and re-seated it in there, but it still makes the noise. The whole thing works fine and makes water as it is supposed to though, so who knows. I ordered a ShokBlok to add inline so that I can make sure the water pressure coming into the unit will not be able to get too high, so maybe that will help.

[vanz]

have you tested the return yet? Gut feeling here. I have a feeling water will sprout from that anti siphon hole if you used the original 1" to 3/4" threaded elbow that came with the kit. Make sure the anti siphon hole is facing down into the water.

[XrayGuy]

have you tested the return yet? Gut feeling here. I have a feeling water will sprout from that anti siphon hole if you used the original 1" to 3/4" threaded elbow that came with the kit. Make sure the anti siphon hole is facing down into the water.

 

Funny you should mention that. I actually almost had that part of the plumbing done when I noticed the whole on there and had an "oh s**t" moment. I was still dry fitting that part though, so I went to Home Depot and got the same elbow minus the durso anti siphon hole. So, no there will not be any water shooting out of it And the return I got from Matt (mag 18) will be tested here shortly.

[XrayGuy]

Do I need to have an anti siphon hole for sure and if so, can I just drill it so that it is facing down on the new elbow? I will have the elbow basically belly up...

[vanz]

Good lol. You should drill a hole though to prevent sucking a ton of water down when you turn off the return.

 

 

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[XrayGuy]

Good lol. You should drill a hole though to prevent sucking a ton of water down when you turn off the return.

 

 

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Ok cool I will do that. Thanks for the warning

[XrayGuy]

Ok huge update! The tank is now filled and ready to begin cycling. Going to buy a shrimp at the store today to toss in to start it. Lots of pics here...

 

 

Tank in the house finally!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MY initial second try for aquascape. First one I tried one long peninsula from the overflow corner to the opposite, but I decided that I wanted a trench in the middle, so here it is. All of the rock was dry (dead). I rinsed it all in RODI water prior to putting in the tank.

 

 

 

Starting to fill. I washed the sand out 2x and man was it dirty. I used 40lbs of the DRY CaribSea aragonite sand that is medium size, not the super fine stuff that will blow around in the tank.

 

 

Cheap LED light for when I need to see down there, 2x controllers for Jebao RW-8's.

 

 

Reef Octopus SRO 1000 INT skimmer, Mag 18 return pump, 2x 200watt ViaAqua titanium heaters with digital controllers.

 

 

I painted the top part of my return piping black so that it is not as much of an eyesore since it matches the corner overflow. I had originally drilled a siphone hole into the bottom of the elbow closest to the overflow but on the overflow side, but it shot water straight into the overflow and was loud. I researched a better way to make a siphon hole, so I fixed the issue by using 2 part epoxy to seal up the hole I made and then I drilled a new hole on the tank side on the bottom of the lock line "Y" piece. The hole is under water while system is running and then when there is no power, it is exposed to the air and breaks the siphon from the return lock lines really quick.

 

 

I may try to get a different kind of power strip setup, but for now I think this will work just fine. I have all the cords going below the strips first as well, just in case of water drippage going down the cords.

 

 

Ocean Revive T247 LED light

 

 

 

 

I mounted the light hanger that I made (3/4" conduit pipe + pipe bender + rustoleum spray paint) by securing 1" PVC pipe (painted black) to the back of the stand and I have a furniture moving pad underneath that. I then was able to take the 3/4" conduit light hanger bar and slide it right into the PVC pipe. This allows me to just rotate the whole light bar out of my way when I need to get into the tank. I am using a small piece of rubber to wedge between the PVC and the conduit to keep the hanger bar from rotating...I just pull the small piece of rubber out of the pipe to be able to turn the hanger.

 

 

 

 

 

Full tank shot. Water is mostly clear, but I do have some microbubbles. From what I can tell, they are coming from my drain and my baffles before the return (I did a pretty crappy job on the baffles, but I am going to live with it for now). I will be buying some filter floss today to put in between the baffles before the return and I may add a filter sock also at the drains to try to get rid of the micro bubbles.