John Vinson

Thanks Dave! I'm going to order some Iodine immediately (there are several kinds on Amazon though, which one are you using?). I'm checking reefmoonshiners for some of the other elements I'm low on as well. There are quite a few on the spreedsheet they recommend I dose (17 actually, and at $20 each, this can get crazy quickly. Besides Iodine, are there any that you think I should prioritize?) Also, how often did you send another ICP test in (once a month, or every few months?) Thanks again!

So I just got my ICP test results in and, as expected, my iodine levels are low and I'll start researching dosing options for that. The report I got back from Triton also recommended dosing Boron, Strontium, and Molybdenum, Vanadium, and Manganese (Nickle and Zinc as well, but for "Fine Tuning" - whatever that means). I just want to keep from bleaching killing every SPS that I get, so should I be good to go by dosing just the Iodine, or are my numbers bad enough with the other elements that Triton recommends that I should look at dosing all of them as well? 425XL - November 3, 2022 (B-lZg2VW).pdf

I don't know what a bacteria bloom looks like, but those are all bubbles that completely go away when I turn off the skimmer

I can't figure out how it happened, but something screwed up my skimmer (Simplicity 240DC). I follow the manual for tuning it correctly (sump water level is right at 8 inches, manual says 7-9). I've got the water adjustment tube set arrow-to-arrow and no matter what I do, it continues to dump microbubbles into the tank (none of the sponges I've tried manage to reduce them either). I thought it might be the CO2 scrubber, so I tried with it off and nothing changed. The Reefmat keeps the tank pretty clear, so normally I'd be fine with just turning off the skimmer and/or removing it altogether. However, the CO2 scrubber is the only think keeping my Ph up within respectable levels, and as soon as it's turned off, you can see how much of a effect it has: Anyone see anything blatantly wrong that I'm doing, or run into a similar problem and manage to fix it?

Thanks again to Dave for letting me bother him yesterday and confirming my algae issue is, in fact, cyano. I've blown most of what I can see off of the rocks with a powerhead and my NO3/PO4 readings are 26/0.06 respectively (as of 10 min ago). Still debating on whether or no to use the chemiclean (leaning towards using it, to be honest, just to try and get rid of everything I couldn't see, but I'll probably wait until I get a couple water changes in to see if I can get the nitrates down to around 10)

Not a problem....I'm definitely willing to travel to you at your convenience, if you're comfortable with a visit

Looks like the microscope was a bust (cheap digital one), couldn't get a detailed enough image to ID the algae properly. Anyone local have one that I can bring a sample to?

Since stopping the AB+ dosing and turning off all the red, white and green lights, I've ordered an ICP test kit and will be picking up a microscope later this afternoon (following the Mack's FB group FAQ). I do have an oversized UV sterilizer (coralife turbo twist 6x ultraviolet sterilizer 18Watt, for 250 gallon tank, and mine is ~115 gallons with the sump). The only reactors I'm running is GFO (to keep my phosphates within reason) and I do have a spare carbon reactor that I'm not using. I may try to find some room in the sump for it if it makes sense to use it (I thought running carbon was more for water clarity, and the reefmat pretty much takes care of that)

Most other corals are doing fine (zoas, toadstools, mushrooms, hammers and torches). My neon green candy canes aren't doing so well though, so I've moved them to see if I can make them happy again. I do have a skimmer (Simplicity 240DC) and two Reefwave25's that provide plenty of flow (I actually have them turned down to their lowest setting, otherwise they blast everything)

One thing I forgot to note, I have been dosing AB+ (otherwise my nitrates drop too low). I figured if it helped to feed the coral and kept my nitrates up then it should be fine....but if it's adding jet fuel to the algae, I'll switch back to NeoNitro

With the signature profile I was using, it had some reds and whites turned on, but no greens....I've since turned them all off and am only running UV, V, RB, B

I have a Melanarus wrasse that has decimated the flatworm population....not sure about the nudis (wouldn't I see them at night with a flashlight?)

I bought it at the end of August

I've been trying with little success to add some SPS to my mixed reef tank. Some of them are bleaching (PAR is only around 140 on the blue stylo), and others get a slime/algae (can't tell if it's red or not, I'm colorblind). The highest PAR is around 170 on the spongebob, but it's pretty much done-in with the red algae. I have the Hydra 32HD's and I've just been using one of their "Signature" settings that you can download for the lighting parameters and schedule. As for my other tank parameters, here's where they are typically: Temp: 79F, Salinity: 1.026, Ph: 8.1-8.3, Alk: 8.6-8.9, Calc: 475, Mag: 1500, Nitrate: 20, Phos: .07 I keep the Magnesium that high for the LPS in the tank (torches/hammers) - could that be the problem? I do weekly 10% water changes with the BRS Tropic Marin Syn-Biotic salt and RO water. I haven't done an ICP test to see if something weird is going on, but am willing to give it a shot if nothing else is jumping out as a potential cause for the carnage. Do I have a red algae problem that I need to treat chemically (since the CuC doesn't touch it)? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Do you do this each time you feed, or mix up a batch that you refreeze?

Hello...I've had this Longnose Butteryfly fish in QT with copper (1.85) for two weeks and I was getting ready to put it in the DT today, until I saw this white spot on him. I've decided to keep him in QT for another 2 weeks with the same amount of copper, but is there anything else I should do? Keep an eye on the spot and see if it grows? If so, add some sort of fish antibiotics? (Which kind?) He's eating pretty much anything I put in the tank, so I think I'm safe to take my time and make sure he's 100% before adding him to the DT. Thanks in advance for your help!

I wish it were that easy. I've found the source of the microbubbles (the skimmer) and today it decided to go haywire on me. It was working great (the neck cleaner was keeping it clean and the CO2 scrubber brought my Ph up to almost the ideal (around 8.2 now). The collection cup was only about 1" full yesterday and today I see the cup overflowing. I emptied it and tried starting it up again and it overflowed instantly. I go through the tuning procedure again and reduce the pump speed and it's behaving in a "lean" condition now (not enough organics) - probably because the Reefmat is getting most of it before it makes it to the skimmer. I need to get an air-intake adjustment valve (right now it's just a tube going from the silencer to the CO2 scrubber), so hopefully once I get the skimmer tuned again it will also fix my microbubble problem....fingers crossed

Thanks for the advice.....the filter sponges came yesterday and I put the denser one in between the skimmer and return chamber and that seems to have fixed the problem (it's only been a few hours and not all the bubbles are gone, but it's been significantly reduced).

Here's the setup currently (still have some cord management to do LOL). I did try turning off the UV for a couple days and it didn't have an effect on the bubbles (unless it takes some time for them to dissipate?)

I've made some recent hardware changes and I'm struggling to find out what's causing the microbubbles in the display tank. First, I added a UV Sterilizer last week and the only place I can put the UV pump is the same chamber as the return pump - so I'm thinking something is going on in there and I've ordered a couple sheets of sponge padding that I'm going to try and wedge in there to see if makes any difference (I've since turned it off the past couple days but they haven't cleared up) Second, I also cleaned the Reefwave 25's, but that was a week prior and didn't notice any bubbles until right after installing the UV. The last change was installing the Avast "squeegee" neck cleaner for the skimmer. Anyone else done these type of hardware changes and had to deal with microbubbles as well? TIA for your help!

Hah....I wish.... They're actually up here now, so I'd just give it to them to take home when they drive back later today... Let me know if that's how your want to do it and I'll make sure to give it to them and I'll PM their address

My in-laws live closer to you (Mt Angel)...I could drop them off at their place if that would work better

I'm in Happy Valley

Hah....came with the tank and aren't needed now that I've installed the Reefmat 500

I doubt it....I'd say it'd probably take 2 or 3 to fit them all (I was putting them in a Red Sea blue bucket after they were used and the bucket would only hold about half of them)