Trailermann

I have used three different high quality salt mixes the past two years, and always get the brown stuff.

I bit of reading suggests that this fish is very aggressive and not reef safe.  But beautiful!

For some reason, I could not view the video on my Chromebook.

OK, buddy.  I will pull the kit off the shelf and process it and mail it in.  Nice to know that my single simple sample will be contributing to your solid scientific studies.  (Onomatopoeia over use?.)

I have the handheld, and I will try to get it over to C&C and Lewisriver.... in the next two few days.  The screw in the base is frozen but I did not work hard to free it.  I placed a bit of velcro with hot glue that seemed to work.

Great feedback, thanks.

I am plumbing my UV directly into the return line.  I chose to skip the bypass set up since the UV bulb can be changed with the return pump operating, assuming your UV has a quartz sleeve.

Why is it so difficult to ID nuisance algae?  

No disrespect for you guys, but even on R2R when aquarists post photos, the answers are rarely clear.  When I Google images of dino, cyano, and brown hair algae, none of the results look like my stringy filiments.

This stringy stuff is most prevalent right below the Hydra 52.  It brushes and blows off easily, then the tank is relatively clear for a couple of days.  It does not match the on line images I searched for.  (Fully cycled 20 gallon coral quarantine tank two months old.)

What ever it is, should I be worried and do anything other than brushing it off and letting time take its course?

Hopefully you, me and the deposit will be able to hook up tomorrow.  Thanks for your attention.

Anxious to use the meter.  the SPS in my coral DT are not doing well.  All chemical parameters are in line so I suspect the lighting is the problem.  But with the Hydra 52HD in a 20 gallon tank, I don't know if I have too much or too little light.

Sometimes patience is soooo dificult.

11 hours ago, Burningbaal said:

BRS investigates suggests uv flow should be high for algae, bacteria, etc. Slow is for protozoa (ich).
Sounds like you're doing everything right...sorry to hear it's been so hard.

I  am still trying to figure out the right flow for my new UV.  I believe you are quoting BRS correctly, but if I understand the concept of UV's killing things (actually sterilizing them), then would it not be more accurate to say that slow flow and greater contact time is for protozoa and algae, bacteria, etc.  Hope the dinos of Spschampion behave and just go away.

Wait a minute.  Why then is my tiny 120 gallon tank costing so much?  Apart from the cost, apparently time I am spending setting up the equipment and the time I spend reading this crazy stuff, just doesn't make any sense.

I too like the color, but I could not help but notice that you still have some room for more corals.

Really appreciate sharing the excitement of raising these babies with us.   And yes, you have hooked in another buyer.

Sign me up for either meter please.  BTW, about how long is the wait these days?  I am too lazy to search thru this posting.

Mr. Trailermann

After reading this, my first introduction to microbiome, I have this crude idea.   Most often we are warned that starting a tank with live rock brings nothing but trouble in the form of hitchhikers.  So why not purchase some "good" live rock and quarantine it with sand and Marine Pure.  Like any quarantine program, inspect regularly to remove exposed hitchhikers.  Then following adaquate time, you will have seeded the sand and Marine Pure with good stuff that can be used to start up your new display.

Wondering where a hobbiest can find "good" live rock?

Make any sense?

No photos yet.  Price will go up immediately when I go to "all the trouble" of unboxing, setting up photos and posting them.  Save me the trouble and pick up one or both now.

First one:  Trigger Ruby 30Elite sump 28.7 gallons, 30 x 14 x 16.  Older model but other than normal scratches, in very good shape.  Includes two sock holders and refugium.  Asking only $200.  Retail price for newest model is $414.

Second one:  Ruby Cube 20, 20 x 20 x 15.  Excellent condition.  Asking $125.  REtail is $319 new

Purchased both from club members but decided to use a different sump.  

EMeyers said:

"Group 4 had high diversity and balance (0.48 and 0.36). This is what these differences do to a tank, in visual form......"

A few questions.

1.  How do you measure high diversity (0.48) and balance (0.36)?

Can this only work with true live rock?  I will be starting  up a new DT in a couple of months using well soaked, cured and cycled Reef Saver Dry Live Rock and avoiding the uglies is a high priority. 

2.  This microbiome matter is entirely new to me.  The dictionary tells me that it is a broad mixture of bacteria and other microbes.  Have you developed something akin to sourdough starter that is added to the RODI water when the tank is first filled?

Please keep experimenting.  Let me know if you need a guinea pig.

28 minutes ago, Jorge said:

I can help if you'd like Paul. I can make that shadow overflow dead silent.

Cool, but with the changes inspired by SuncrestReef, it will be a few more months. 

Adding UV

Adding Klir fleece filter

changing sump to accommodate Klir

Of course, redoing the plumbing that was 90 percent finished

Sure do.  I upgraded after my original Hydra gave out. With a fair offer, it is all yours.  I live in SW Portland and often visit CNC.

All very helpful.  I now am ready to install the overflow plumbing with confidence.

On 9/10/2019 at 7:13 PM, Higher Thinking said:

Little trickle shouldn't have any noticeable sound. You could always just not keep the water level that high in the overflow box. Any reason why you're set on that?

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I was told that the E pipe should splash loudly whenever it goes live.  I just don't want an aggravating noisy trickle under normal conditions.

I plan to use two of the three bulkheads in the Shadow overflow box.  And I plan to tune the Herbie so there is a pinch of water flowing down it.  Should I worry about splashing noise in the sump since the emergency/trickle pipe will terminate above the sump's water level?

7 hours ago, Burningbaal said:

Did you think you were commenting on a different tank thread? This tank had been a disaster to set up... I've probably had $200 of dead animals in this darn nano, maybe more. This thread started yesterday ago and the tank is barely starting now...

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I absolutely misunderstood.  Bummer that this has been so difficult.