nanoreefer17

Thanks for all the responses sorry for the delay I was out of town all weekend.

On 6/16/2017 at 5:37 PM, Brian67 said:

Steel stands are def ideal but not a must. spectra makes nice welded stands here on the forumn  i can build you a nice furniture grade wood stand if interested

all im not a big fannif nails in moist environments they tend to pull out if things move at all

I may be interested in this option depending on what something like this would cost.  I am having a hard time parting with the one though because I am into it about $500 and weeks worth of labor. Plus, I built the whole light fixture from scratch, and its made of the same materials and stained to match.

On 6/16/2017 at 9:52 PM, spectra said:

Thanks!

 

But what is your frame made of ? I have built plenty of wood sands and well you need a good frame for it to mount to. I did use just 3/4 poplar for my 20 build but afte going bigger I made a 2x3 frame then attached the skin to it.

 

Was this just a frame and that's it ?

On 6/18/2017 at 10:44 AM, pdxmonkeyboy said:

Mitered corners like that are inherently very weak. But the biggest issue which has already been mentioned is no system to deal with sheer forces. Or said another way "racking" of the frame. I would take the stand and use a pair of long bar clamps to get it square again and then glue and screw 1/2 plywood to the sides.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 

The frame is made of poplar, and I recognize the racking issue as this thing is 38" tall.  all the corners are covered with maple trim, as well as the bottom and the top.  The top has a large piece of maple used as a crown to hide the base of the tank.

The sump is a perfect fit inside the thing, meaning I had to slide it over the sump when I set it up.  The doors are just attached with hinges and have glass inserts, so they do nothing structurally.

I attached a picture from when I built it below. I live in Seattle.

5 hours ago, TheClark said:

Bummer you gotta move!

By chance, is the tank perfectly level?  If not, pick up some of those composite shims for your next setup to level it.  

BTW, it is a beautiful looking stand.

 

 

Yes, the tank is completely level, its rimless so that was a must! And thank you, I just hope I can keep it.

Glad this thread is getting some attention, all the experienced opinions are appreciated!

Thanks everyone for responses! Just trying to prevent every reefers worst nightmare! :/

On 6/14/2017 at 10:35 PM, MVPaquatics said:

Could it be due to the two different woods expanding and contracting differently with temperature and humidity differences?

Possibly but I am leaning more toward just the overall weight.

On 6/15/2017 at 1:20 AM, Brian67 said:

So having built many stands it looks like you are getting "sheer" movement from lack of plywood sides or interior bracing. Just my two cents without knowing exactly how it was constructed. Lastly how is it attached ? Nails, screws or glue?

This is kind of what I am thinking, although I am not familiar with the term sheer.  I used a pinner, so small nails. I then used glue as well for the corners, but mostly nails.

I guess I am mostly worried about the long term stability of the stand, and whether or not I need to look toward building a new one, possibly with a steel frame. 

On 6/15/2017 at 9:05 AM, cjmdh said:

Looks like the weight of the tank is causing the corner 45 joint's to splay.  Some glue, clamps and screws will help stop/prevent it.

I will probably do some of this when I take it down, and put some pressure on the joints and see if they hold well before setting it back up completely.

On 6/1/2017 at 5:24 PM, R-3 said:

Any updates?? This is a sweet tank I love the dimesions!

Thanks for asking, I just posted this today.  Not exactly a good update but would love some input!

I will add more photos and maybe some coral photos soon, growing nicely!

Try to ignore the fact that I didn't take the first picture completely straight up and down, and I know the canopy leans inward toward the wall.  I did that to help with the room turning blue.

I built this stand for my 55 cube, and 40 ish cube sump.  The frame is made of poplar and I beefed it up with maple trim all around.  The tank has been operational for about 10 months, and sadly I have to take it down in 2 months, for a big move to Denver.  I want to bring the whole setup with, as I have poured and ton of time and money into it. Although, I have noticed that the stand seems to be leaning away from the wall just a little, and the trim pieces as the base are slightly pulling away form the poplar, about 1/16"-1/8".  The base of the stand is 1/2" inch away from the wall, and the base of the display is 1" away from the wall.  I want to know how much of this could be attributed to the weight of the tank settling, versus some structural instability.  Either way I am quite confident it wont be a problem until the move, but am nervous about setting it back up.  I attached pictures below, and if anyone could give some expert advise it would be appreciated.

I used to have a large cespitularia. They are very sensitive to touch, my clown fish about killed it numerous times. They also don't like too much light or flow. Most sensitive softy I've ever owned.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Would take one of each if I lived closer too, great looking frags glws

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I would like to use it if someone near seattle has it soon. I would be happy to pay a fee since I'm not a paying member.

I can give you a quick turnaround on it too since I'm far away.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Come to my meeting on March 18th i have plenty of sps

I will see if that can work. I would also take a look at the list, maybe you have a thread already?

Also I'm the one who took the black tonga milli looking multibranch from you at the swap, and so far so good!

Also looking for a teal colored bubble, and an Aussie gold torch.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Looking for 12-18 Sps healthy frags, willing to pay pal and allow them to encrust on plugs rather than fresh cuts.

I live in Seattle but willing to drive. I'm prepared to pay a few hundred bucks, pm me if you have a collection that needs trimming!

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I was reading that it either gets skimmed out or can be broken down with UV. I'm sure carbon absorbs some as well. Did you skim during treatment or not? If you did I'd probably just do a full dose with the water change. I don't think there has been any negative reports of people over doing the dosage.

I followed the r2r thread for almost a month, I am 20 days in.  I re-dosed a full dosage at 10 days and no ill effects on any fish, lps, sps, ect.

I ran both carbon and gfo, while skimming the entire time.  I followed my normal weekly water change routine as well.  I do think the UV will effect it though.

Run your lights as usual, as the lights seem to be what speeds up the process. People who have high par have faster die off, also the bryopsis near the top dies faster too.

I battled bryopsis for over 2 years in my sps dominant tank, and this was a life saver!  IT WORKS!

Pickup up some nice sps at Bob Moore today, work has kept me distracted from the tank for awhile, so ended up losing a couple peices, I think partially due to cycling and stabilizing.

Adding a media reactor to manage chemistry, and have had awesome growth on a handful of corals. If these new sps adapt nicely I will be looking to add a few more. Pictures to come!

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

It works! I'm on day 12, and it's nearly all gone. Mine was thick too. You can also get it prescibed it's often given by doctors to treat yeast in humans

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Good to hear about the fish and corals not stressing, that is what always worries most of us about any treatment. When you purchased your "medication" did you have to get a large amount or can you get a  few capsules?

I only needed 5x 200mg tablets.  I got 10 just in case it doesn't clear up with 5 I can re-dose if it seems to be working.  Its relatively cheap, costed me 23 bucks.

Did a water change today, and still running GFO.  Tips of Bryopsis seem to be turning white in the less thick patches

2 days in and no adverse effects yet, no positive effects either quite yet.  Most people recorded die off around day 5-6 so still holding out!

Just dosed 1000mg of fluconazole. I have a 50g display and 30g sump, with displacement I assume I have about 50g. Therefore 20mg/1gal.

Dissolved the pills in tank water and added to display. I will keep this updated.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/bryopsis-cure-my-battle-with-bryopsis-using-fluconazole.285096/

Read this if you have not discovered it yet, the activity on this thread has been blowing up over the last few days.

I am going to run it on my tank, starting my treatment tomorrow and will post results on my tank thread.

I'm running that same reactor, and real happy so far. Stoked to see the progression

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Looks great! following along

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I would really like to get on the list. Not a paying member but would be more then happy to make a donation to the club. I live in Seattle so haven't been able to justify becoming a member since most of you live in Portland. Let me know if something like this is possible.

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

Where are you located? I would take them. But I'm up in Seattle :/ Free bump if your to far away, great deal though!

Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk