nanoreefer17

Light sold. This can be closed.

Bump. Still have this light.

I just cleared my inbox, sorry about that. I don't go south all that often, but I might be in the Kent, WA area the 9th/10th. I will be around Seattle the week of June 13th too. I would be willing to bring it with me and make something work.

Bump on the light!

Light still for sale. $400 Now.

RODI unit sold. ATI still for sale.

Bump. $450 for the ATI now. $150 for the RODI still.

Dropping the price. $500 for ATI and $150 for RODI. $600 for both.

36" 2x75W LED 4x39W T5 LED Powermodule - ATI (Non-WiFi Unit)
https://premiumaquatics.com/products/ati-36-2x75w-led-4x39w-t5-powermodule.html

Great working condition overall. Comes with 10 ATI lamps, most have been used 6-9 months. One of the case fans is not working, it was like this when I stopped using the fixture and I never had any issues because of it, but I think this is a common replacement on these ATI units, I just never got around to replacing it. I used this fixture for apx. 3 years and it has since been in storage. Decided to sell because I wont be setting up another tank anytime soon.

4 Stage Value Plus 150GPD Water Saver RO/DI System - Bulk Reef Supply
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/4-stage-150gpd-plus-water-saver-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html

RODI Unit only used for 1 year. Likely needs new media since it has been in storage for over a year, media was replaced shortly before placing in storage though.

 

$600 for the ATI fixture w/ lamps, and $200 for the RODI. $750 for both.
Serious inquires only please, local pickup preferred. I live north of Seattle in Skagit valley. Thanks for looking!

Do you have 2 quietdrive MP10's?

On 8/30/2017 at 10:14 PM, Jorge said:

35 1/12 x 28 1/2 x 28

Dang, just a hair too small for my display. GLWS on this, awesome looking stand!

Not sure if you  make the MP10's but PM me a price on those, and I might take them.

what are the dimensions on the stand?

Hello PNWMAS.

I am moving out of state very soon and would like to scrape up a few extra bucks to offset the cost of moving the tank!

I LIVE IN SEATTLE, NOT PORTLAND (Sorry in advance )

I am willing to sell frag packs of the following Sps Corals at fair prices.  I won't cut them until I have confirmed payment, or can do it in person.  I also would rather not sell individual frags as I am quite busy with moving, thanks for understanding.

• Pink Lemonade
• Sunset Millipora
• "Stylasters" Black Tonga Millipora
• 500 Efflo
• Green Slimer
• Purple Slimer
• Blue Voodoo
• Red Planet
• ORA Blue Bottlebrush
• ORA Dark Blue Millipora
• ORA Deepwater No Name Purple w/ Green Tips
• Blue Tipped Tenius
• Forest Fire Digi
• Blue German Digi
• BC No Name Yellow Acro
• Yellow Spongodes * Looks like a yellow Digitata
• Tyree Flower Petal Montipora
• Montipora Undata
• Red Montipora

*All frags will be 3/4-1 ich depending on the colony, unless you prefer larger.  I can mount on plugs if you like.  This excludes the Montipora, as they would be larger.

Pm me and I can give you a pack price, I would rather not sell individually so don't want to price individually.

Oh now I see it haha oops.  Can yo ship?  Otherwise I might be going to Bend this weekend, I live in Seattle.

I am interested in all 3 checkers. You have a price in mind?

I can't sorry, just trying to share the live locally

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Bump

Would love to see what Zoas or Palys there are. Maybe some pictures? Or describe.
I would love a bubble tip at that price but I think my limited space I may want to fill with Flower nems

Your are more then welcome to come take a look. Not a massive selection of zoas and palys but I can drag anything I have. Text me if your interested in coming by. 4257603488

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On 6/25/2017 at 2:03 PM, BabelFish said:

Hi There   Im new here, I live in Federal Way, WA. I was hoping someone in the local community could help me out and lend me a RODI unit so I can get setup. I could rent or buy your second hand unit. 

Thanks

I have an older unit that I used to use, works pretty good, may need new filters at some point.  I live in Columbia City Seattle, just north of Renton.  $25 bucks? I can meetup any day this week or weekend.

I have 5 RBTAs and they keep splitting.  Would like to sell 3-4 of them.  10$ each or whatever your willing to trade works for me.  I also have a handful of other sps, zoas, palys, ect I can snip while your here.

I live in South Seattle.  Come get em!

4 hours ago, spectra said:

 

That's your problem right there. You need screws in there or biscuits.....I screwed and glued mine when I did it. The thing was rock solid.

Whats a biscuit?  Like the plastic things in Ikea furniture?

I should have screwed the frame, and then pinned all the trim.  Was my first real woodworking project.  I will definitely update the thread when I take the thing down.

On 6/20/2017 at 7:39 PM, spectra said:

How are the corners done? I don't see any pocket holes for screws? When I built mine I used a kreg jig for everything and its not going anywhere.

 

There are no screws anywhere in the stand.  I just used whats often called a "pinner" , its a small nail gun used for finish carpentry.  I had to use quite a bit of nails, as they are pretty small.

17 hours ago, albertareef said:

OK, one more idea based on cjmdh's observation about the splaying.  Looking at how the legs are designed, I could see where your weight load could be causing the bottom ends to splay outward as there is nothing but the trim piece tying those together.  You could add a bottom panel to anchor all the vertical pieces (after getting it squared back up) which should prevent this but, given your tight tolerances, you would need to do this with the sump already inside.  Tricky but not impossible.  You obviously can't remove the sump without taking the tank down anyway so you wouldn't loose anything there if you did it with screws.  Not sure if you could reposition your outer trim to cover the extra height or maybe just redo that.

Basically, I have seen two successful approaches - either build a very strong core frame (either wood or steel) and sheath/skin it or do a "ballon" style build where you don't have the heavily built core but you tie things together very thoroughly with full top, bottom and back panels to help with the sheering and splaying. I would say it might be easiest to apply some of the principals of the latter approach to help stabilize yours rather than starting over.  You could opt to build a more robust substructure for it but that wouldn't work with your sump.

Just trying to throw out ideas here.

I like the idea of putting the piece on the bottom.  I would have to redo the trim, but that is not impossible.  I never really thought of that, with the sump inside!  That seems like my best option to hold things together, without having to completely start over.

I did add this at the time of construction, but it could still rack the other direction I guess.  Its only 1/2" plywood, and goes 2/3 the way up.  I think the corners separating is more attributed to the weight.  Weird thought, but I have insanely high flow in this display, all of which is directed toward the front wall of the tank.  Could this pressure of water moving in this direction cause the stand to lean outwards?

33 minutes ago, albertareef said:

I remember liking this stand when I checked out the original build thread - really dig the frosted glass doors.  Can't quite tell from the last pic but, if there is no back panel in place I think that would be the place to start (per pdxmonkeyboy's suggestion).  When you have it down, get it squared up and screw in a full rear panel of plywood that will tie the vertical and horizontal pieces of the frame together (again, per pdxmonkeyboy's advice) so you will at least have some anti-sheer support. In addition, you could try adding some internal bracing but you don't have a lot of room to work with considering your sump.  Good luck - I hope you can make it work!  

Thanks a bunch!  I originally didn't do that across the back because I wanted more air to cool the sump section, but given it lying against the wall I guess thats probably not necessary.