bamburgb

Dang haha was trying to avoid that haha. I currently use instant ocean purple container but am planning on switching to reef crystals when I run out of what I currently have 

So what is a good way to lower calcium and alkalinity? I put a calcium reactor in to stabilize my parameters which worked for about a month then in the last couple weeks I noticed they were increasing as of tonight (based on API tests, I have more of my Hanna reagents ordered) the alk was at about 14dkh and calcium was at around 560ppm usually I like my alk around 9-10. I have always thought that alk and calcium were alternates (when one is high other is low) but right now I’m seeing different. any ideas would be helpful, gonna need to re adjust the calcium reactor soon cause it’s atarting to get low on CO2

Thanks for the great corals, it was really nice to meet you, love the set up and the display tank is amazing :-)

Ok might need to try that if I go that route. I’m gonna give the purigen, and carbon dosing a little longer to try to lower it before I add another thing 

8 minutes ago, stylaster said:

Also if you want to bring nitrates down you can use a denitrator brick.  I use the brightwell xport no3 brick seeded with their microbactr7 product.  This brought my 25ppm nitrates in roughly 500 gallon system down to 0 in a little over a week.  

I’ve been reading up on those, how long do they seem to last a lot of the things I have read say that after 2-3 weeks they became a pile of mush that you have to fish out of the water.

Source water was still reading 0ppm on the Salifert test 

8 hours ago, Higher Thinking said:

Did you ever test your source water?

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Not yet with the Salifert I tested it with the api and it read 0ppm or close to it

Update: bought a Salifert test from cuttlefish and coral today and cording to that my nitrates are only 25ppm

I have a 1969 Owens fiberglass boat, New fish finder I bought late 2017 and only used it maybe 6 times. The fish finder i believe is a Hummingbird helix 5 with down imaging. Boat trailer lights were re-wired in 2017 and are good to go, tires on the trailer are good. tags on the boat are from 20167 and need to be renewed. Also has the covers shown in pictures as well as a traveling cover. when not on the boat the covers have always been stored in the garage and in the storage bags.

reason for selling is the motor is not currently running, the fuel was mixed two lean for the 2 stroke and its gonna cost me to much to repair. Asking 1500 for boat, fish finder, trailer, and some rod holders. Motor will go with it, you can either attempt to repair or replace.

I’ll test that later tonight, would love to figure out if the rest is wrong or if the water is just really high. 

3 hours ago, Manny Tavan said:

Get salifert kit

if you want nitrates to go down quickly, only a water change will do that

carbon dosing with nopox took months to make a change in my system and it was only a small effect (nitrate from 5 to 1)

maybe look at a better light for refugium. Not sure what you are using

not feeding fish for 5 days won’t make a difference. Lighter feeding over months will slow down nitrate build up but won’t really make it go down 

Ya i think ill pick up an additional test to run it. I guess I was just thinking that by doing 60+ gallon water change that my nitrates would have went down a little bit on that test. As for the refugium light I am running a cheaper white led, it seems to grow the cheato pretty well.  

Dang I was hoping you would say it wasn’t accurate haha. I Just pulled out half of my cheato (it was packed...) and turned off the dosing pump for the vodka. We will see if this cuts down the nitrates...

5 minutes ago, youcallmenny said:

Agreed on all but their nitrate test.  I use theirs and salifert at the same time.  

So you think there nitrate tests are good? 

I have hanna Testers for ALK and CA but not nitrates (not sure if they even have one for nitrates) and the API were right inline with those so i figured I would be ok with the nitrate but thats something I was thinking as well is maybe its the test kit. I may try to get a Salifert one. I'll pull out some cheato right now and hope that helps.

I have a section of the sump blocked off for the refugium area and its FULL with cheato. 

I have cut feedings back (havent fed in like 5 days due to trying to lower the nitrates and hasnt even budged, I figured the color on the test would have lightened up atleast a little with all the things I have done so far. 

So started testing frequently about a month ago (use to just test when things were going wrong which is what started this and trying to get into the habit of regular testing) and my alk, calcium and PH have all been stable (11dkh, 440 ppm, and 8.2) but my nitrates seem to be staying at 80 ppm... I have done 60 gallon water change (tank is a 180gal), started carbon dosing (doing 5mL 2x a day) and upgraded the protein skimmer to a bubble magus curve 7, but my nitrates are staying at 80 ppm... Any ideas would be helpful cause im running out of ideas on how I could lower them... Also have about a 4 gallon refugium. 

Im using API tests for all 4 parameters, I also tested my RODI water for top off and water changes and that was reading 0 ppm.  

Anyone looking for a 40 gallon breeder set up? I have a drilled 40B with black line stand, ASM mini -G protein slimmer, a utility pump, and a couple sunsun power heads. All you would need equipment wise is a light, sump (I used a 20 gal tank), plumbing (the bulkheads look good still) and heater.

About the tank: set it up about early (around March) 2016 but due to fighting my ex for custody of my son I was distracted and didn’t take care of it so I had a tank crash and then by October 2016 I took it down and it has sat in my garage since. Back is painted light blue but I’m sure you can get that off. It was set up for a frag tank.

Asking 200 obo.

I work as a  biopharmaceutical manufacturing technician, we make the drugs and fill them into vials (liquids not pills) used to treat many different things. At the site i work we focus on a drug for breast cancer, Non-Hodgkin lymphoma, and other types of cancer.

If still available I would love a piece I can come by tomorrow evening after 8

That’s what I was starting to think but didn’t wanna do something to mess it up or hurt the tank. Good thing I’m doing this just started measuring pH and it’s at 7.9

Ya it makes some sense but still kinda confuses me. As you can see in the image this is what I am working with and trying to figure out...

It looks the same accept from what I see the cr-100 has a inlet spot down near the pump this one doesn’t.

1 minute ago, Higher Thinking said:

That's exactly right. New water, airline, and recirculating water all enters the intake of the recirc pump.

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O I thought you meant they came together at your bubble counter. There is no inlet down near the pump which is what’s confusing me there are two ports on the top one on top of the bubble counter and one on the opposite side of the bubble counter but with all images i see that’s for the recirculating from one of the top ports...

3 minutes ago, Higher Thinking said:

Nothing real fancy here. Eheim pump. The airline and water intake T together and get brought into the reactor along with recirculating water that is already in the reactor. The effluent then leaves the top.

 

 

The amount of water that enters the reactor and then flows out is controlled by that gate valve, which Ts off my main return line.

 

 

 

 

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So you have the CO2 line and the joining up with the water intake? If so that’s extremely helpful and solves my confusion and I will need to go buy a piece tomorrow haha.