Peng

BioSpira is a very good one.

Thank you! This is very helpful! I just got Seachem test kit and I asked the LFS where I got my PBT about their water and they said that they always have Cupramine in their tanks at therapeutic 0.5 mg/L level. This is a great relief, since I got this PBT from them.

Yes I did. Both hypo and copper seem to be very upsetting for tangs, especially for powder blue. I think I may try using Cupramine, monitor closely, and see how it does. If it's not doing good I'll stop the treatment.

Thinking of using copper on tangs/Angels just makes me pretty worried.

That is really true. The worst thing that can happen is that when I add cupramine there is a chance it will die during treatment.

I know you've treated it with success so I wonder how do you think if I treat them with Cupramine. I use to follow the instructions on other fishes and they would just get killed. I think this time I'll use a test kit to monitor. But I'be heard that mandarine won't survive it.

Hi Micah I don't have a bad ich problem. Only PBT gets it and it comes and goes. Usually several dots, when it chases around with yellow tang.

Thanks for the reply. I will treat them all if I do... But yeah it's like a really tricky question.

Hi I know there are tons of people here who successfully treated fishes with cuppramine for ich... I have had no success and in the past they all died during the treatment. I have a PBT that has ich. It has been living in my aquarium for about half a year and the ich comes and goes. Usually several dots on it's face. Other fishes and tangs don't seem to get it. Is it worthwhile to get all fishes (4) out and put them into an aquarium with cuppramine? I have an empty 60 gallon cube, but it's not drilled and I don't have any extra skimmer for that tank. I can pull out a power head and a hang-on-glass filter for it but I'm not sure if this is gonna work... Another big big issue is that I have a mandarin goby and a cleaner shrimp. I dont know if ich will stay with the shrimp. And I don't know how mandarin can survive without its pods... But I do want to make my tank ich free. I didn't use any Cu test before. I think I need to buy one if I was gonna do the treatment this time... But I don't really know... I do want to see my PBT swimming free with ich, but I don't want to lose it... It came with lots of ich and bony dying face and I tried a lot and it got so fat now... Would appreciate some help from you guys thanks

Two years. Gorgeous!

Do you still have them?

Finally got a breath from school. Sorry every body for the late reply. It has been crazy this week. I'll reply to everyone when I get home tonight. And thank everybody who replied to me.

Any idea would be appreciated. Thank you!

My 90G SPS dominant tank has been doing well for a couple month until about last month. Problems started to pop up... Things were fine until I purchased 4 green chromis, 2 anthias, 1 red star, and 1 sand sifting starfish. First pH started to hike, which I had no idea why. I added vinegar to lower it, and I added too much. pH lowered to 6.XX immediately, and I used kalkwasser to increase it right after that and it went back to 8.1X. Then I started to doubt my pH probe so I bought a new one and found the old one was off. After calibration the old one still can't match with the new one. During the pH spike, the pink birdsnest generated those "bubbles" on it's skin, and burp, they broke eventually, exposing the skeleton outside. They stopped when the new probe was on and pH fell into acceptable range. However, during this time, cyno started to grow, crazily. They basically covered the surface of many stones. Many SPS corals were damaged. Their tips started to have STN. And they started to brown up. Acropora, monti, except for birdnest, had tip burning. This stopped when I bought a dual reactor from BRS and plugged it in with Phosguard and ROX. Now I've tested a few times by HANNA; the result for phosphate stays around 7~9 ppb. I used to have this figure without any cyno. I'm so puzzled why the cyno still are here despite I suck them out every time I do water change. suspicious factors as following: too many fishes. problem wasn't there before I added 6 new fishes sand sifting starfish. it eats good things in the sand bed? clues: cheato started to grow very fast. It used to not grow at all. some SPS browned out Green Birdsnest's started to have STN from bottom up. It's a small colony. Phosphate was once 45 ppb, reduced to 7~9, while cyno didn't seem to change that much. water flow is generally strong I've been doing heavy water changes since the case happened I'm planning to move all the rocks out and sell the majority of fishes.

What a deal!

I'm in too

Thank you. I already returned the fish... It decided to eat corals...

Introduced a H. Diphreutes yesterday and the powder blue went crazy on it. It was the most violent fish chasing I've ever seen. It was so aggressive, and constantly using its scalpel to hurt the bannerfish. The bannerfish has been hiding all the time except for when the lights are off. I'm currently considering the mirror trick. Any suggestions?

Good approach! That should help with the nuisance anemones too! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. What's IME? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It has been couple months since some of the SPS stopped growing. Milleporas in my tank generally don't grow but encrust. Some acroporas grow very fast, and nice coloration too. But most of them grow very slowly. I suspecting those: Zoa, Cancy canes 3.5"-4" green toadstool Pulsing Xenia & amthelia Acans Others are all acroporas. They don't really shed nor touch each other. I don't have carbon. I bet the leather coral might be contributing to this Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pull off the doser and see how it goes. Sometimes it's the test kit's problem. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. A yellow tang won't be bad. Purple tang is nice too. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk